You'll need access to the OBD data listed as CEC, CED, CCC, CDC and SoC (displayed), each to one decimal point resolution.
1. Charge to 100% (or close) and record them all.
2. Drive the car down to 15% (or as low you're comfortable with) and record them all again. It doesn't really matter how you drive or how long it takes, but you'd not want to do this mid-winter.
3. Take the
change in each of the five values and remove the
charge numbers (added by regen) from the
discharge numbers to get the
net values. Divide that by the change in SoC as a fraction (e.g. 100% to 15% is 0.85). The 0.98 factor is an estimate of battery cycle efficiency and applies only to the energy calculation.
[ΔCED - (0.98 x ΔCEC)] / ΔSoC(disp)
and
[ΔCDC - ΔCCC] / ΔSoC(disp)
Compare those to the as-new rated capacity of 64 kWh and 180 Ah. I obtained values (in red boxes) close to those in my test below. (Mine are factored by 1/100 because I forgot about expressing the SoC change as a fraction.)
I actually log those values every 5 seconds while driving to check the linearity but that's not required for a simple capacity check.
