Yes. I found it in the Clarity specific PDI which has a lot of other valuable information. I have attached it for you and here is the thread on it:
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...spection-doc-esp-on-battery-replacement.2742/
Basically it says when the battery capacity drops to 36.6 Ah from what appears to be a nominal value of 55 Ah, then a warranty replacement is in order. Note that California (PZEV states?) gets a 10 yr warranty while the rest of us get an 8 yr warranty. This equates to about a 1/3 loss of capacity or range.
This can be tested by your dealers i-HDS along with pages of other test data.
The good news is that so far only one person on the forum,
@jdonalds , is having battery loss problems. The other good news is that Honda has given us a very good BMS (battery management system) and a liquid cooled battery pack that prevent overheating and cycles of complete charge to complete discharge which are both Li-ion battery killers. With a very good BMS and liquid cooling, I expect my battery pack to last much longer than my cell phone battery which has neither. Some people do try to “baby” their battery pack by only charging to 80 or 90%, but since my ChargePoint EVSE and Honda Link don’t offer this, I am happy to trust the BMS’s built in buffers at the high and low ends of the SOC (state of charge). The general consensus on the forum based on several calculations is that 20-25% of the capacity is restricted, although we don’t know the exact split between top and bottom.
If you want more info and more numbers to crunch, you can search or try this thread where we determined, the figures from the Clarity specific PDI, measurements from the OBD port, and some research documents were all in close agreement concerning the battery metrics such as capacity and buffers.
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...ended-pids-capacity-and-specific-energy.2633/
If I could easily select charging to 10% less than max, I probably would, but I’m not overly concerned about it. I do use scheduling to charge as late as I can to minimize the time the battery is at 100% SOC and don’t charge when I have enough to make my thankfully short commute the next day. Cell balancing seems to occur after a full charge so most would recommend charging to full periodically if you’re doing the partial charge to protect the battery thing. Note that the manual says to charge every time (and if it’s in the manual or on the Internet it must be true!).
It is comforting to see that Teslas with similar batteries, BMS, and cooling, have been shown to have rather low battery degradation over time as seen in this thread:
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...00-miles-battery-and-repairs.5768/#post-63637
And here are some more threads that will either put your mind at ease or give you more strategies to obsess over.
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...s/honda-clarity-top-end-battery-reserve.6913/
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...018-clarity-battery-concerns.6385/#post-71620
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...battery-pack-capacity-signal.3007/#post-62228
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...ds/charge-strategy-for-max-battery-life.1154/
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...tages-seen-in-honda-link-app.4340/#post-44804
I also attached a few battery articles previously posted by our helpful and erudite members if you really want to go down the rabbit hole.
As for me, I’m just gonna drive and enjoy it! 2 years and 15,500+ trouble free miles on just 17 gal of gas with no range anxiety and no angry bees ever! Yeah, I love this car!