12V Accessory outlets stopped working

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My front 12V accessory outlet went out a few weeks ago when using 12V air compressor to fill winter tire with slow leak from apparent current overload. I then used the Honda supplied tire inflator (which works much better) from rear 12V accessory outlet several times with no issue. This week I foolishly used my old air compressor on rear 12V outlet, and that outlet stopped working after few minutes.
Expecting fuses needed replacing, I replaced both 20A fuses (front #29 rear #10) but both 12V outlets still don't work. I checked the fuses I had removed, and they were still good. Checked back at fuse panel and both circuits are getting 12V when accessory/power is on.
It looks like the 12V accessory outlets have additional overload protection beyond the fuse panel. Perhaps inline fuses or circuit breaker at the 12V accessory outlet. I tried removing the rear outlet but I don't think it will come easily without breaking something. I have seen parts diagram of the front console with 12V outlet but don't have wiring diagram.
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...plugin-clarity-phev-ka-cvt/console-front.html
Anyone have idea about this? Might Honda have 2 level circuit protection on 12V outlets?
 
That’s a puzzler since the appropriate 20 Amp fuses did not blow. They should have blown first so this is a long shot, but did you check all the fuses under the hood? And the only other WAG I could offer up would be the possibility that your 3rd party compressor somehow bent or damaged the socket. You could test that with a VOM. But all those are long shots.
 
jorgie393 said:
If you look at this old post of mine, one of the attachments is the Honda service manual diagram of the ACC circuits. I don’t see any secondary circuit protection. There is a relay that comes after the fuse but if it failed both ACC outlets would have gone at the same time.

Triple-check the C10 fuse.

https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...ssory-acc-power-for-aftermarket-devices.3571/


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Click to expand...

Thanks alot for the info. I rechecked both ACC fuse circuits C10 & C29 rear and confirmed OK, 12V DC active.

From your document "Fuse to Components Index 2309" it appears there are separate relays for the front and rear(console) ACC outlets.

upload_2019-3-24_18-7-28.webp

upload_2019-3-24_18-8-5.webp


There must be protective current sensing which triggered lock out of the ACC outlets by control relays separately for each ACC outlet. The troubling part is there seems to be no way for clarity owner to restore the ACC outlet power. I chequed with my Torque Pro app on ODBII to see if there was a malfunction code, in the faint hope I could clear fault and reset ACC outlet power, but didn't find any fault code.
My next thought was to do full reset of the car and see if ACC outlet came back on. I disconnected the ground lead from the under-hood 12V battery and waited 5 minutes before reconnecting. It takes a while for the system errors to clear after reboot and short drive. I then checked the ACC power on both outlets but were still dead.
It looks the I need full Honda diagnostic system to fix this. I going to call my Honda dealer about this, and expect them to fix my ACC outlet issue at next service visit next month.
 
Hmm, too bad. A real long shot:
but from the circuit diagrams attached my my prior old post, fuse C1 controls some of the ACC relays circuits. Remote chance that blew—it would explain things, but hard to see how it happened.


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Gbuff said:
Thanks alot for the info. I rechecked both ACC fuse circuits C10 & C29 rear and confirmed OK, 12V DC active.

From your document "Fuse to Components Index 2309" it appears there are separate relays for the front and rear(console) ACC outlets.

View attachment 4140
View attachment 4141

There must be protective current sensing which triggered lock out of the ACC outlets by control relays separately for each ACC outlet. The troubling part is there seems to be no way for clarity owner to restore the ACC outlet power. I chequed with my Torque Pro app on ODBII to see if there was a malfunction code, in the faint hope I could clear fault and reset ACC outlet power, but didn't find any fault code.
My next thought was to do full reset of the car and see if ACC outlet came back on. I disconnected the ground lead from the under-hood 12V battery and waited 5 minutes before reconnecting. It takes a while for the system errors to clear after reboot and short drive. I then checked the ACC power on both outlets but were still dead.
It looks the I need full Honda diagnostic system to fix this. I going to call my Honda dealer about this, and expect them to fix my ACC outlet issue at next service visit next month.
Click to expand...
I've had this same issue - first my console (rear) 12V accessory outlet stopped working. Since the car was going in for a routine service anyway, I mentioned it to them, and they said they had to change the outlet. Today I find out (maybe it happened at the same time as the rear) that the front one is not working, but both #10 and #29 fuse are fine. What did the dealer do with your front ACC outlet? Any insight into whether it's a different fuse that controls the relay, or any other tips?
 
I have the same problem. The rear accessory outlet stopped working because I used a cheap pump. I checked fuses 10 & 29 and they were fine. What can I do? It is a silly design if the fuses don't protect the socket and something else that is more difficult to replace needs replacement.
 
I finally got the 12V accessory power outlets fixed last week. The Honda dealer tried on 2 other occasions to troubleshoot issue and finally told me they needed to change the accessory outlet sockets. I did not believe that was solution but they ordered parts and suggested I leave car with them again to replace sockets.
My Clarity recently suffered minor rear end accident, so while car was in for bumper repair, I asked dealer service to do the socket replacement, fully expecting problem would not be fixed. To my surprise, both 12V outlets are now fixed!
I did not get chance to talk to service guy, but I still think something other than socket replacement is responsible for the fix. Perhaps diagnostic routine is done after socket replacement which restores the 12V outputs. The only other possibility is integral fuse with the 12V sockets, but I am not aware outlets have such fuse. Anyway, I am glad the 12V outlets are back on and will be careful what I plug into the accessory outlets and use only Honda provided tire inflator from now on.
 
Someone could take a failed socket apart (hint) and see if there is an internal fuse. This assumes that Honda returned the failed part but the failed part is probably not returned if the repair is done under the warranty.

LeoP
 
Sorry for your accident. I still havent fixed my socket yet. I still have the front socket so not in a rush. The 20 amp fuse should have protected the socket. Maybe a 15 amp should be used instead.
 
So I finally got around to having the dealer look at the rear accessory socket. The dealer confirmed that the socket needs to be replaced and the fuses are fine. The part is about $20 and needs to be ordered but will be done as a warranty repair. The fuses should have protected this from happening. I would be careful about using high amperage equipment on the socket. I may throw away the aftermarket air pump that caused this. The air pump that comes with the car is better than my aftermarket pump.
 
Anyone have an opinion re using an inverter to run a 7 amp 1/2" drill in one of those sockets? Don't want cordless because the batteries run down during storage.
 
Tek_Freek said:
Anyone have an opinion re using an inverter to run a 7 amp 1/2" drill in one of those sockets? Don't want cordless because the batteries run down during storage.
Click to expand...
It won't work. That's 840 watts plus the inverter draw. That's way over the capacity of the circuit. Get a cordless drill with a lithium battery. Those last for many months in storage.
 
Tek_Freek said:
Anyone have an opinion re using an inverter to run a 7 amp 1/2" drill in one of those sockets? Don't want cordless because the batteries run down during storage.
Click to expand...
You could do this, but as @Sandroad said, you can't do it by connecting to the 12V cigarette lighter type socket. You will have to direct connect to the 12V battery. I'd also have the car running to keep from draining the 12V battery. Inverter will have to be at least 1000W, but it should work fine.
 
Based on this thread and my planned use of these outlets. I think I am replacing the factory fuses with 15 amp ones. Seems that the actual outlets may not be "branch rated" for 20 amps, and fail. Figure an extra fuse in the glove box is better than having to have the outlets replaced by the dealer later. It isn't the cost as much as the PITA that replacing those sockets will be if I later have to do them myself.

Thanks for the head up!
Cash
 
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