Wheel lug nut size

Discussion in 'Hyundai Kona Electric' started by R P, Jun 13, 2020.

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  1. I wanted to rotate tires, but my Kona didn't come with a lug wrench, and I noticed the size is different than my other car. Before I go out and buy another socket for my impact wrench, can someone tell me the exact size needed? Looks to be about 13/16?
     
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  3. 13/16 socket fits on mine.
     
    R P likes this.
  4. What jack are you using?
     
  5. I have a couple hydraulic jacks with the rubber slotted pucks. Fits perfectly on the pinch weld.
     
    electriceddy likes this.
  6. Can the Nexens be cross rotated, or do they need to stay on the same side?
     
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  8. I've haven't noticed any direction arrows on the Nexans. I think it would be good to cross-rotate if you can do it conveniently (and the manual shows that) but not essential by any means, especially if there is no visible feathering on the fronts. For me a front to back was a whole lot easier as I only have two jacks.

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  9. Did you have any issues with the tire pressure monitor sensors? It's front right still front right?
     
  10. I have a tread depth gauge and noticed that both right tires had slightly more tread left than their left counterparts. So a cross rotation should help even that out. But that will be a little more tricky with lifting all 4 wheels off the ground. Or is it possible to lift just the diagonal ones, and the other two would remain planted? Have never done that.
     
  11. FloridaSun

    FloridaSun Well-Known Member

    Those jacks look exactly like the ones I'm using...
     
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  13. Esprit1st likes this.
  14. No problem despite that some owners mention issues.
    I would be uncomfortable with safety doing that. With two jacks you could lift just one end, swap them left to right, then lift each side swapping front to rear. That's only one more step than just F <> R.
     
    R P likes this.
  15. Yeah,... now why didn't I think of that!! Thanks. I can switch both ends and then the front to rears. That will get my currently more tread right side over to my currently less tread left side.
     
    electriceddy likes this.
  16. hobbit

    hobbit Well-Known Member

    If you get a spare, via any of the solutions noted here, you can work that around
    the car in any progression you want. Doesn't take that long, just a lot of
    wrenching. The nuts don't have to be all that tight for a temporary lowering.

    _H*
     
  17. Ed C

    Ed C Active Member

    It doesn't matter the position of the TPMS monitor, so long as it is within the range of the car's sensor. You can rotate it front/back or cross rotated....as long as the car's sensor can detect the TPMS in the tire, it will properly display it on the digital cluster relative to the tire's location. I don't know where the car sensors are to be honest, but it must be close to the wheel base.

    I had all four of my tires replaced with new Michelins. The guy didn't put the wheels back on in any particular order, but when I drive it, the tire pressure readings showed up appropriately at their location. I tried deflating/inflating the tires, and it read appropriately according to their location.

    However, say you replace one of your tires with a spare w/o the TPMS, the car will display an error saying tire pressure cannot be detected on one of the tires.
     
    Esprit1st likes this.
  18. Did my tire rotation today as planned. One thing to note when lifting both rears to do that swap, is that your parking brake only holds the rear wheels. So when jacking up, the front wheels are only held by being in Park, and it could roll forward if you are not careful. Anyway, got it done OK, but it was a bit of work moving all the tires twice to get them into the right cross rotation positions. I measured the tread wear on all of the them and the fronts were around 6/32" while the rears were 7/32. New is 9/32. And they were pretty well evenly worn across the tread from centre to edges. I have 20,000 kms at this point. So looks like I have a lot left to go. At this rate, should be able to achieve 50,000 kms. I run 38 PSI on all 4 tires.

    Some have mentioned rust on the inner wheels, rotors and calipers on their cars. I was surprised how clean mine were, despite driving in lots of salt this winter. Having said that, I did wash it frequently.
     
  19. The vents from the inner hub to the outside are what keeps rust to a minimum. Some wheel designs fail to include this feature and water can accumulate in the pockets.

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