What do I have to read in the manual first

Discussion in 'Clarity' started by prestoOne, Mar 26, 2018.

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  1. prestoOne

    prestoOne Member

    The manual is massive.
    What do I have to read now to avoid damaging the car or whatever is most important?

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  3. jdonalds

    jdonalds Well-Known Member

    Really nothing. Just drive it.

    Charge it with the correct voltage.

    Take you time then to read through the whole manual.
  4. K8QM

    K8QM Active Member

    I've found as much information on this forum and through the 2-4 minute Honda videos as I have in the manual.

  5. Viking79

    Viking79 Well-Known Member

    Different than traditional car you might want to read about:
    • Plug in system (read or watch tutorials about that)
    • If you charge over regular wall outlet, consider having electrician check it. Should be dedicated, minimum 15 amp outlet with wires attached by screws (on inside of wall side of outlet) and not "stab" connectors (where wire inserts into hole and held by friction).
    • Best is installing 240 V Level 2 EVSE (About $600 for EVSE and $400 for install), get unit for 40 amp circuit (32 amp or so max charge current).
    • Fuel system - uses a pressurized tank to keep fuel fresh (zero need for stabilizers). Can't open fuel tank right away after releasing latch and special directions if it fails to open for some reason.
    • Operating modes: Econ ("EV" mostly mode), Normal, Sport, HV (hybrid/hold, maintains charge), and HV Charge (hybrid charges up to 12 bars)
    Not in manual:
    • Temperature: Cold temperatures (say less than 10 F) will result in more engine running. Any temperature where heater is on will quickly reduce range. AC will hurt range, but generally not as much as heater.
    • EV Range might vary from 25 to 60+ miles depending on conditions. In warm weather at town speeds, you should get EPA rated 47 or more.
    • Engine RPM won't act like a gas car, it runs at most efficient RPM (sometimes gets buzzy). Smart use of above modes can avoid this.

    Traditional Car Stuff to Read:
    • Honda Sensing - Read how these important safety features works
    • Infotainment System
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2018
    Atul Thakkar and prestoOne like this.
  6. KentuckyKen

    KentuckyKen Well-Known Member

    Three words to keep from damaging car-maintenance, maintenance, maintenance. That section is short. Don’t go over intervals Honda recommends by following Maintenance Minder but note that manual says change oil once a year even if MM doesn’t trigger. This not only protects car, but also preserves your warranty. Keep receipts if your too cheap like me to use the dealer so you won’t have warranty issues.
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  8. AlanSqB

    AlanSqB Active Member

    hondatechtutor.com - All the good stuff is on videos there.
    prestoOne and iluvscuba like this.
  9. Tailwind

    Tailwind Active Member

    Viking79, I'm curious as to the part of your comment I highlighted. Where did you get that information? Is that part of the building code?
  10. prestoOne

    prestoOne Member

    If this isn't in the manual it should be.
    Those back stab connections are not as mechanically sound or make as good as a contact as the screws.
    100% go with the screw, in fact all the outlets on that line (if not dedicated should be the same).
  11. Tailwind

    Tailwind Active Member


    Same question to you: Why do you say that? Is there some reference you can cite that sates this?
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  13. prestoOne

    prestoOne Member

    Fine. What is not going to happen here is me writing a paper for you.
    You can ignore the advice and increase your risk of a host spot, broken outlets and a fire.
    You can blindly follow the advice.
    You can do a simple search of google and make your own mind up.

    If you find people saying backstab is better be sure to let us know.
  14. Tailwind

    Tailwind Active Member


    Sorry if I hit a sore spot. I was only asking a question. Since the NEC (I'm in the US) doesn't state a preference for screw terminal attachment vs. "backstabbing", I was wondering if you knew something that I didn't.

    And I have done some research and found an equal number of people claiming a preference for screw terminal as for backstabbing. Mostly because there is a type of receptacle that uses what some term "backwiring". A backwire receptacle uses a screw to tighten a plate down on a wire, not a spring clip. Not being an electrician myself, and having only seen "backwire" type receptacles, I wasn't aware of the backstabbing type.
    Domenick likes this.
  15. prestoOne

    prestoOne Member

    Just naturally abrasive. You asked for too much work and could have googled the forums, that is all. Of course the NEC isn't going to speak against their own proposal. Check out what the pros do.

    I have never found a single electrician saying backstabbing was the preferred method for performance and reliability. Not a single one. After installing a single outlet common sense would also lead to the same conclusion, the screw mechanic is superior to a springy action push in thing.

    Backstabbing the outlet is faster, that is it. Speed it why it was created. Good electricians don't say backstab is good enough, they take the extra time and screw it in so they know it will keep working.

    To use the words of my brother who has been an electrician for 20 years "Stabbing is sh*t. Screw them on right."
    Last edited: Mar 29, 2018

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