Trunk Lid Tension Adjustment

Discussion in 'Clarity' started by vicw, Sep 2, 2021.

To remove this ad click here.

  1. vicw

    vicw Active Member

    It seems to me that the the tensioning on the Trunk Lid on my 2018 may have gradually weakened over its 3 1/2 years. Currently, unless I lift the Lid so that its lip is at least 5 ft. from the ground, it will drop down to closure.

    It's difficult to see from the back of the car, but there seems to be some kind of pinion arrangement on the inside of each arm, that is set to what looks like the least tension, and which perhaps can be adjusted, but I'm apprehensive about trying to change it, given the stresses on the arms that could spring away, and risk cause some damage or injury.

    I'm hoping that someone else on the forum has been through this adjustment already, or has some insight whether it can be done without any special tools, or should be left for the dealer to do.
     
    Last edited: Sep 2, 2021
  2. To remove this ad click here.

  3. jdonalds

    jdonalds Well-Known Member

    I don't know about a tension adjustment. That would be great if it had one.

    What I experienced recently was at a rented home I pulled into the driveway which was at an up angle. When I opened the trunk it came down hard on my head. From that point on we backed up the driveway for the rest of the vacation.

    I didn't look. Does the Clarity have gas shocks? if so they are cheap and easy to replace.
     
  4. vicw

    vicw Active Member

    Yup, I've had that fun experience with the car on an upward incline, too. Very frustrating, and can be painful. I've also had it creep downward on me on a level surface as I was removing items from the trunk, and caught the back of my head on the low, protruding latch mechanism.

    The Clarity seems to depend on the lift from two torsion rods, one from each end to balance the load. I am hoping the the end of each can be adjusted. There is a gear/pinion looking arrangement that is several inches long, which may will allow for adjustment
     
  5. Tom H

    Tom H New Member

    My 3 1/2 year old 2018 works just fine. Actually it is easy to see the torsion bar springs that hold up the trunk lid but I did not see any adjustment. Torsion bars can get weak over time. The parts are not that expensive but replacing them might be tricky. The mechanism is identical to that in an Accord or Civic (different part numbers) so a dealer should be able to do it easily.
     
  6. vicw

    vicw Active Member

    After more looking and pondering at the tension arm arrangement, and watching a couple of YouTube videos showing bar replacements on older Accords, I agree that there really doesn't seem to be any adjustment possible. The DYI's showed using a Crescent Wrench or Vise Grips instead of the official Honda Trunk Spring Tool to wrench the bars free. I think my old body just isn't up to the task - watching one of them was a bit scary, with the bars coming free suddenly, and unpredictably, and the lid slamming down shut on him, still inside. I think I'll just see if my dealer will do it reasonably.
     
  7. To remove this ad click here.

  8. soobaerodude

    soobaerodude New Member

    I have the same issue. When I park on our driveway, the trunk barely stays up.

    Since I have a 2020 with only 6k miles, replacing the tension arms should fall under warranty, correct?
     
  9. MrFixit

    MrFixit Well-Known Member

    If it's any consolation, these parts are very low cost...
    upload_2021-9-2_20-36-57.png

    Of course, if they failed this soon, they will likely fail again. I have not watched the DIY videos yet, but I would think with a little care, this seems like it should be a quick and easy DIY job. Given this, it shouldn't cost too much to have the dealer do it either. It will be interesting to find out how much they will charge. They should be able to give you a very accurate price because it looks virtually identical to the setup in the Accords.
     
  10. Only if the dealer determines that there is a manufacturer defect or that the components have failed to perform as designed. If you pull into a flat dealer parking lot, open the trunk, and it stays open, it is operating properly. If you do persuade them to replace the parts, the new parts will probably allow the trunk lid to close when parked in your driveway, as they will be no different than the old parts.
     
  11. vicw

    vicw Active Member

    I don't think my Clarity behaved the same way when it was new. You make a good point, regarding what represents operating properly.

    On my Clarity, on a level surface, if I lift the trunk lid up where the center lip of the lid is less than 5', it comes down to closure. I would love to hear if anyone with a new, or newer Clarity could check the comparable height that theirs shows when it reaches that tipping point, to get a better idea of "normal", and whether or not new ones would be likely to improve the situation.
     
  12. To remove this ad click here.

  13. On level ground I just measured our 2019, which we’ve had for a little over 2 years. It will hold when the bottom of the latch/tab on the lid is at 50” or more. Fully open it is ~64”. At less than 50” it will drop, but not close completely. It is roughly 6” from closing. On the bottom end, it will hold from just open up to 35”. Put another way, it will not hold when the tab is between 35” and 50”. I’d estimate that the trunk has been opened at least 300 times.
     
  14. vicw

    vicw Active Member

    Thanks much, @Landshark, for taking the time and effort to check your trunk lid behavior. I won't jump to any conclusions, but it seems the torsion bars on your Clarity at 2 years or so, are more robust than those on my 3 1/2 year old 2018 Clarity, at 50" vs 60" on mine. I have no idea how many times I've open my trunk.

    That 10" difference is significant, I think, and supports my rationale that they may fatigue over time, and lose effectiveness. I think I'll talk with our dealer about it next week. I have no issue of a warranty replacement, so there shouldn't be any reason for them to want to treat it as "that's normal".
     
  15. MrFixit

    MrFixit Well-Known Member

    I just checked my 2018 for comparison. In doing this, I believe it has become apparent that @Landshark and @vicw are using a different point of reference (correct me if I'm wrong).
    @vicw is measuring from the floor to the 'lip' of the trunk lid (in the center). @Landshark is measuring from the floor to the bottom of the latch. The difference between these two methods gets larger as the lid is raised due to the angle.

    There is nothing wrong with either method, but in order to compare apples to apples...
    My experience is that measuring to the 'lip' is a little easier because as the lid goes down, the latch becomes partially hidden.

    I measured them both ways to illustrate the difference:

    Height to the Lip
    Wide Open - 69"
    Holds Position - above 53", or below 36"​

    Height to the Latch
    Wide Open - 65"
    Holds Position - above 51", or below 34"​
     
  16. You bet. It definitely sounds like your springs aren’t holding up.
     
  17. vicw

    vicw Active Member

    Interesting that @MrFixit caught the different points of reference in our measurements. My eyes had skipped right over the "bottom of the latch/tab" comment, and went directly to the 50" in @Landshark's response.

    Adjusting the @Landshark latch/tab measurement a couple of inches to correlate to the lip height leaves the upper Hold position for his at 52", mine at 60" and MrFixit's at 53", so it does look like my springs are sagging, more than the norm, based on this small sampling.

    Thanks again to you both for your help. I'll update later if the dealer provides anything of note on the topic, and perhaps his price for the doing the job.
     
  18. I did realize that after taking measurements and reading your post again, that we had measured from different spots. Being that the difference between our 2 vehicles, in where the lid no longer held was roughly 10”, I deemed an inch or two to be insignificant.

    I’ve also opted to ignore posts from certain members on the forum. So whenever you reference one of those posts, I will be unable to offer feedback.
     
  19. PnwDriver

    PnwDriver New Member

    Since more data is beneficial, especially when it differs from earlier reports, I thought I would offer comparative measurements on my clarity (2019 base model, purchased Jan 2020, and low miles). Parked in my garage (so no wind, and with a slight slope to the floor of about 1-1/4 degrees, with car parked nose up) I do not get any drop at any position when gently placed. all measurements are relative the the bottom lip. My wide open height is 68-1/4". Below 36" there is no drop even with slight downward momentum, similarly above 46". In between those heights you can get some drop if you nudge the lid, but it does not move very far before stopping again, at most up to 6"? It certainly never drops to "closed" on its own - in fact, we have to close the lid firmly every time (some might say a "mild slam") in order to get it to latch. When new I thought the trunk lid was quite stiff compared to the 12 year old Accord we traded in for the Clarity, but now we are sort of used to it. Given that we not only have to push firmly down to close, but also have to assist with the lift to get the lid fully open, this behavior is definitely not due to the counter balance at all, which, BTW, is not a gas shock but a pair of torsion springs, easily visible as a pair of about 1/4" diameter rods extending from one hinge to the other across the top of the trunk (At least on my clarity, there are no trunk lid gas shocks!). My guess would be that we have higher trunk lid hinge friction than is present on the other cars measured and reported so far in this thread. On mine, I can't really see whether the hinge pin is a bolt or just a captured rod, but there is lube visible (and washers) between the square tube holding the truck lid and the stamped metal parts (one per side) that serve as the pivot points. If a bolt, maybe they got over torqued. If just a captured rod, maybe the stamped housing came out too tight, or the end of the square tube got a bit "fat" when the rest of the tube was formed into the required curve. Either way, with so few data points, we don't know for certain yet what is "normal", and which of our cars are the "outliers", but we do know that there are significant differences...
     
  20. MrFixit

    MrFixit Well-Known Member

    I kind of wonder if this is intended to be as close to neutral as possible (ie: the torsion rods could be designed to neutralize the weight of the trunk lid regardless of position). Then just a little friction can allow you to place the lid anywhere you want it. When in the zone where the lid does not hold position (between 36 and 53 for me), it only barely wants to move. It will not close or fully open on it's own.
    This approach kind of makes sense except you probably are better with a small (but definite) up-force when raised so there is no chance that it will fall on your head as experienced by @vicw.
     
  21. Thanks for the info. Yours and mine appear to be operating similarly, with the exception of the ~15” window, where yours holds unless nudged and mine will drop slowly. I can’t imagine a scenario where I would ever want the trunk lid to be in any position other that fully open or closed and latched. Anything in between is just a parlor game.

    If it holds when fully opened, the simple solution is to be sure it is in that position prior to entry.
     
  22. vicw

    vicw Active Member

    I think you have hit upon the core of the real issue for me, in expecting a degree of neutrality with the lid up. That is the behavior I believe I had on my Clarity until recently. Now, if I place the lid any less than 60", it will fall to closure. Left between 55" and less than 60", it will fall hard enough to actually latch. Any less than 32" will hold stationary. I also just noticed that having the lid as much as 2" above the point of equilibrium, it doesn't take much vibration on the car, from things such as opening and closing doors, getting in or out of the car, placing or removing a spare tire, well maybe not a spare tire, since the Clarity doesn't have one, but things like heavy groceries or luggage, the lid will inch downward in small, stealthy increments, until it reaches that tipping point and suddenly comes slamming down. I think that is the scenario where I've had it occur.

    Actually, in my approximate 50 years of sedan ownership, I don't recall previously ever lifting a trunk lid and consciously considering that I needed to be sure that I lifted the lid to its fully upright position limit to avoid it coming down on my head as I bent over into it removing or placing contents. If that is the expected "normal", I will have to do some late self-training.

    I really believe (hope) that the perceived change in behavior is most likely the result of metal fatigue in the torsion arms, that falling to closure is not a normal condition, and that the original stability/neutrality can be restored with their replacement.

    I appreciate all of the feedback and help on this relatively minor, but annoying, issue. I guess my next move is to have a chat with the service rep at our local Honda dealer tomorrow. Hopefully, he/she has seen a good sampling of Honda sedans, and will add more knowledge and price. I'll update here if I get anything of note from Honda.
     
    Last edited: Sep 6, 2021
  23. vicw

    vicw Active Member

    I'm just back from getting the springs replaced by my local Honda Dealer, and I'm happy with the results. The trunk lid is again behaving as it did when new. The point where the trunk will drop at all is now 55" vs. the 60" before, but more importantly, the downward movement from that point or below is much less and slower than it had been, and it now takes positive pressure to push the trunk down to closure and latching. It remains to be seen if the new springs will degrade in the same way as the originals over the next 3 1/2 years, but we'll see.

    The dealer charged me $16.65, and $22.31 for the springs, and $75 labor for installation. A few years ago, I probably would have used my Vise-Grip pliers, and have replaced them myself, but I no longer trust my 81 year old body to handle things with springs that are likely to go off in unexpected directions.
     

Share This Page