Torque Pro on the Kona - overview and setup for interested owners

I would love any updates on these, especially the 12V battery ones. I'm Ok editing pids in Torque, as long as the syntax is spoon-fed.

 

The 12V stuff I had still works as before, as far as I can tell.

So I went out and tested/verified the 220105-based max power / regen parameters. Seems to work,
although whatever spreadsheet this came from has it backwards! By simple inspection and the fact
that I started at 90% indicated, it turns out that maximum regen/charge power is bytes Q and R, and the
maximum discharge power to GO with is bytes S and T.

When I started off, still at 90% on the full charge from the dealer, max discharge was at 180 kW. I
thought "hmm, have they upped the available pack power from 2019?" Well, it didn't take long to
settle back down to the 170 I expected. Regen power, on the other hand, started at about 117 and
over the course of driving around, slowly crept up to 170. That was at 70% real, 72% indicated.
I surmise that the two figures would stay at 170 between 30% and 70% SOC, and as charge dipped
even lower the max power/discharge figure would start going down. I've confirmed 70% as one of
those thresholds; I'll try to remember to study it as I get near 30% or less. The two figures have a
pretty clear inverse relationship.

Mind you, I haven't yet full-cycled this new pack, so various limits and values could change after I
do the "full stroke" test. Friday afternoon rush-hour is not the right time to try that.

_H*

 

Running Torque Pro on a Niro EV using pids from jejusoul (this is best discussion for the Korean EVs). I recently noticed that TP can't correctly read the SOC (display) after I've fully charged the battery for a trip. It is stuck on "-0.5%". Once the SOC drops below 60 or 70%, it will be correct after restarting the app. BMS SOC is correct, and the car's display is correct.

Any ideas??
TIA

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I had that when I turn off the car and then check TP. It would show me -0.5%.

Other than that I don't have any issues.

 

Have you deleted the gauge, then reloaded it?
Or deleted the whole pid set, then reloaded?
If you haven't done the latter, it leaves your TP desktop untouched.
I edit, and keep my pid set in the cloud, so replacing it is simple...

 

I briefly thought of that, but just as quickly dismissed it due to the hassle. Sorta like having to reset one's phone. Your idea of copying pids to the cloud helps.
Thx!

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Absolutely. I'll see what happens today after an overnight charge to 80%.

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Nope, no better. Looks like I'll have to get under the "hood" . . .

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Actually, OBD data is available in "ON" mode [not "drive"] too, and even when the car is "powered
off" but charging. I can use the latter to query my bluetooth OBD widget from inside the house
and see where the SOC is.

_H*

 

Update: added the ABRP-labeled pids from GitHub, and it seems to work now (n = 1).

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The ABRP SoC pid just calls the 003_Kona&Niro_EV_BMS.csv SoC pid, so perhaps you just needed to reload/replace.
Either way, problem solved...

 

I agree. Still curious how the pid stopped working after months of normal behavior. Corrupted maybe? How?

Oh, well, one of life's mysteries

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Well, NM. It's broken again. Happens with both the ABRP pid and the original Jeju pid (which uses an actual formula according to the editor). None of the other pids are affected. Happened after I removed the OBD dongle and reinserted. I'm open to any ideas as to what's happening. I'll check the greater Torque discussions, too.

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You know I had my OBD2 dongle for on me a couple weeks ago, it just wouldn't work at all. I even tried my wife's car. Nothing, so I bought a new one thinking it broke.

After the new one arrived the new one didn't work either. Then after a few days off fiddling around with it they both work now.

But they completely didn't work, not just one pid.

Maybe try to remove all of PIDs but that one and check, make sure there isn't any double PIDs or anything like that.

Just a thought.

 

Transferring Torque Pro configuration to a new phone:

I just upgraded to a Samsung Galaxy S21. Samsung's smart transfer process moved the Torque app, but didn't copy the configuration from my old S7. I suspect it's because the .torque folder is semi-hidden or protected. Here's how I did it on a Windows machine:

1. On the old phone, using File Manager, rename the .torque folder in the phone root to torque. This makes it visible to Windows.
2. Plug the old phone into the PC.
3. Create a file torquexfer on the desktop.
4. Using Windows' File Explorer, copy the folders inside the renamed torque folder on the phone into torquexfer on the desktop. I chose to omit tripLogs, which can be large. (Windows wouldn't just copy the whole torque folder; it must still have some protection.)
5. On the old phone, rename torque back to .torque, and unplug.
6. Plug the new phone into the PC.
7. Copy torquexfer to the new phone.
8. Delete or save the folders inside .torque.
9. Copy all the folders in torquexfer into .torque.

There are probably easier ways to do this, and it could be shorter if both phones were plugged in at the same time, but this worked for me.

 

(Hopefully) Final update:

It seems to working now. Deleted all the app data in storage, then uninstalled. Rebooted phone. Reinstalled Torque. Copied extended pids from other phone which has always worked and installed them. Had to recreate screens (left out the 98 individual cell voltages!). Had to make the calculation correction for Aux battery current.

Worked fine all morning. Broke my ABRP live data, so had to re-enter that info and designate what to log. Whew!

Thx for the support and suggestions!

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Hi people , I am looking at using a Kona drive motor , dashboard and controller in an ICE vehicle.

I expect the controller and management ECU will spit chips when it cant talk to the myriad of standard secondary electronics that typically talk over CAN BUS to each other as part of the continuous self diagnostics process in these vehicles.

Has anyone developed a method to turn off the alarm codes to allow use of these components or is it better to use an aftermarket controller with the Kona drive motor and battery ?