Road noise or wheel bearing noise?

Discussion in 'Clarity' started by sniwallof, Jul 22, 2019.

  1. MrFixit

    MrFixit Active Member

    OK, here is my unscientific search through the forum to look for a pattern.
    These people have reported wheel bearing replacements / fixes:

    @AnthonyW (no indication as to which one)
    @Hypomania (right front)
    @PascoClarity (right front)
    @MDClarity07 (right front)
    @tterag (left front, but subsequently found bad ECVT mount so may have been a false replacement)
    @HEEKANG OH Reported symptoms, but did not report back on resolution (if any)

    Maybe not enough statistics to declare a pattern, but seems suspicious.
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2019
    sniwallof, KentuckyKen and 2002 like this.
  2. sniwallof

    sniwallof Active Member

    If you have time, I think a review and compilation of some of these issues would be useful (I see you already did it, thanks!). If I have early indications of a wheel bearing problem (completely unclear so far), it is the front passenger wheel.

    I will take some pictures next time I take the wheel off. From what I remember the nut has a bendable part around the circumference that gets tapped (bent) into a single slot on the threaded part of the axle.

    The bearing itself is less than $50, and the bearing along with the hub that carries the studs is just over $100 (both genuine Honda parts). I'm half tempted to change mine, even if for nothing more than a science/shop project. The problem is that to do a really professional job, as far as I can tell so far, it takes a press to remove the bearing in two steps, for some reason, first the center, then the outer part. Also, less of a concern, it takes removing three, probably castle nuts, to entirely remove the arm in which the wheel bearing resides, also the brake assembly, and the brake anti-lock sensor cable. There is no alignment, but I guess some damage, or problems, could occur if the new wheel bearing does not go straight in, doing some minor damage if replaced at a slight angle.

    OTOH, I suppose being very low milage, my parts might come apart more easily compared to a bearing replacement on a well rusted 10 year old car.

    I watched a few youtube videos showing a wheel bearing replacement on an Accord. One fellow used a shop press (a small commercial auto mechanic operation), the other just tapped it out using a large socket (32 or 36 mm) with a 5 lb hammer on the floor. (funny, reminds me of a study I heard about recently on how people who watch a Youtube video then think they can do the same project, but I did change an axle some years back, and on occasion, I have stayed at a Holiday Inn Express :) [old ad where folks could do anything after staying at that hotel chain]).
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2019
  3. MrFixit

    MrFixit Active Member

    If it were me, since the car is under warranty, I would just continue along. If it is indeed a wheel bearing, it will continue to degrade until it becomes clear enough for the dealer to recognise. I can't imagine a mechanism that would result in a sudden (and possibly dangerous) failure, so it seems like waiting is a reasonable strategy. Of course, this makes the most sense if you are driving around locally. If you are heading out on a 1,000 mile road trip, then maybe you need to think twice !
    2002 likes this.
  4. sniwallof

    sniwallof Active Member

    No imminent 1,000 mile trips on the schedule, moving back towards the leave it alone suggestion.

    Maybe there is one thing that would be relatively easy to do, to loosen the nut, then re-torque it (OTOH, possibly less useful if the damage is already done, and it might show (leave marks where the bent part locks into the slot) if a later warranty repair is requested, which again leans towards "leave it alone").

    If someone does one of those one-day Honda service logins, it would be great to get the pdfs for the wheel bearing replacement procedure, plus any related disassembly instructions.
  5. tterag

    tterag Member

    You may be able to add me to the right front wheel bearing. They are replacing that today or tomorrow before going to a bigger fix. The bigger fix is replacing the entire ECVT/Generator/Engine system. The corp. Honda tech did a half-shaft exchange last week after the local Honda tech had replaced the ECVT mounts. The biggest problem I've had is that the local tech has never really been able to hear or feel it (hearing damage?). Four weeks ago I finally decided to leave the car until it was fixed which precipitated the corporate tech being requested who thankfully has a wife with a Clarity and noticed within one mile that the car wasn't right.
    KentuckyKen likes this.
  6. MrFixit

    MrFixit Active Member

    @tterag - Just to clarify...
    Are you now saying there is a chance that your problem could have been a wheel bearing all along, and all of this ECVT / Mount stuff was totally irrelevant?

    Since the wheel bearing is an "easy" repair, I assume you will know pretty quickly. By all means, please keep us updated on this issue. I will be happy to definitively add you to the problem list !
  7. tterag

    tterag Member

    This has been an ongoing saga since Feb. for some reason after replacing the drivers side bearing the local tech eliminated the passenger side and the half shaft carrier bearings. I begged them to at least replace the passenger side first as it would be the cheaper fix. I knew it wasn’t mount related but wasn’t getting anywhere. I decided to leave the car and had them give me a loaner until the noise was gone. Considering some of the speed related characteristics, I think there is still a chance it’s the drive pulley bearing but will know for sure about wheel bearing tomorrow. I updated my original thread with current happening.
  8. sniwallof

    sniwallof Active Member

    That sounds really expensive for Honda. Isn't that kind of repair the equivalent of a totaled car? At that point, it probably makes more sense to just give you a new one and call it a day! Unless, it turns out it was the passenger side front wheel bearing.

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