On January 10th, 10 minutes after announcement of the upgraded Model 3 ( highland ) Surprised that trade in stuff done on tesla app itself for Mazda MX30 EV. Will delay this part closer to delivery date. Do not want it in February as originally estimated but prefer March or April. Guess ownership of Mazda MX30 be really short…. 6 months Dan Sent from my iPhone using Inside EVs
What does Tesla call the new M3? Still just "Model 3" and the unofficial "Highland" moniker is the only way to identify which Model 3 is being discussed? Are all existing Model 3s to be known as "pre-Highland" now? Your MX30 is a rare EV. Have you checked out the marketplace for them (I haven't)?
Hopefully this one works for you; the range should be substantially better. Always hard to tell when to buy Tesla, the price may increase or decrease over a short period depending on many factors ie: phases of the moon or maybe Elon has a hangover etc. Lots of complaints from owners who have had noticeable decrease in residual value after a price reduction so be prepared to hang onto this one for some duration.
I was aware of the upgraded Model 3 in september. I traded in the Mazda Miata for the MX30 with no deposit needed and payment stayed the same with 6 months longer payments. Did not expect the announcement Jan 10 but felt it was best to order same day ( actually 10 minutes after announcement ) Most likely to be price increase soon for new version. Price paid same as previous version. Always preferred cars over crossover and suv styles. Prefer the frameless windows over regular full doors. Dan
Assuming Model 3 sales increase with the Highland update, you were smart to jump on that! What does Tesla call the update?
my condolences Since Musk went over the cliff (between his no sleep and to many drugs )I couldnt bring myself to buy a Tesla , along with the fact that Tesla repairs are some of the highest in the market . Also after Battery warranty if even one cell goes bad you cant repair yourself or no local shop, you have to have Tesla replace entire new battery. (they have a pink sticky slime in battery case thats nearly impossible to remove , work around) ID 4 on the other hand I replaced a front center bumper cover $65 (matching color new) AND the ID s battery is 288 cells divided amoungst 12 modules, after warranty if1 cell goes bad you just need to replace one module that contains the bad cell , not the entire costly battery. AND if you grew up working on cars as I have replacing the module is not difficult. unplug HV , lower battery , remove cover , replace module . So it's something a backyard mechanic can do OR any local shop , It wont "have" to go to the deaership . right to repair is very important to me. Not trying to rain on your excitement, sure the highlander is very nice and you're going to enjoy it . Just pointing out some things to consider after warranty
I've been dithering as to what my next EV will be. I've shied away from Tesla for all the reasons you mention. The choice has narrowed down to Ariya, VW id.4 or the Kia EV6. I know the id.4 came out the gate with a lot of software issues but I think they're getting resolved. You've certainly tilted me in that direction as I'm especially looking for a servicable battery pack.
You should also balance the replaced module with the rest of the pack. Then realize the weakest module will define your true pack kWh. This is not impossible but having replaced my 2003 Prius traction battery pack, it needs to be done carefully. Bob Wilson
Excellent point ! there is THAT to consider as well,so lets say 277 cells are coming in at roughly 3.98 volts (after 3 years 120k miles)and the one bad cell totally crashed and is at 3.74 I'm out of warranty . So the brand new the cell is at 4.25 or something the entire battery pack will operate at the 3.98 not 4.25. Range will NOT increase . After 3 years I am geting 235 miles instead of 255 miles then after cell replacement still getting "just" 235 miles because we changed 1 cell not the pack ON the Tesla you'd need to change the entire battery which means you'll also increase your range to essentially whatever it was when new. Difference is the new Tesla battery is going to run you 17K or more where the ID 4 cell/module wil be around 2k ( a lot less if you repair it yourself (unfortunently so many young people dont even want to work on thier cars anymore like we did) So yes heads up for people new to evs. Balancing cells in the ID 4 is essentially running the battery very low and recharging to 90% , BMS will do it's job.
ID 4 2024 has entirely new Software and from reviews much better than the old . My 2023 is updated to 3.1 and it's fine , no real issues other than slow. For me not a big deal as I am driving not playing around with the screen , I set maps/navigation before I leave. Kyle Out Spec has a nice run down on the 2024 including the new media screen and software I really really like the ID 4 for me it was huge uppgrade after driving the Bolt for almost 3 years. That said The Aryia has a "on screen button" to precondition/warm the battery on the way to the DCFC charger , if you travel alot in cold conditions and need to charge alot in cold conditions thats a strong consideration as well. That said I was able to pull 80kW @ negative 7 F this morning on my ID 4 , not blazing but not terrible considering conditions. Last month at 13 F and 1 % SOC I was geting 124kW at a Magic Dock ! I drove hard on the interstate so that warmed battery 77-78mph (considering I'm usully below 74mph (in 70 zone)as I drive Uber and Uber tracks our speed ). Kia EV 6, my concern with them is same battery as the Ioniq 5 and looks like dealers as screwing people over on battery prices , you seen the 2 $60k dollar battery replacement articles right ?.. In reality the real price is rumored at 30K .. still NUTs! Love the charging speed though ..IF you have reliable 250-350 chargers on your usual drive
Amazed that people are actually influenced by that click bait hit job. Any new car, BEV or ICE can be written off quite easily these days, aside from the battery. What you need is Replacement insurance. I carry 5 years for both of my BEVs. So no worries for me. I expect high depreciation in the coming years, and just don't want to take a chance. Besides, it is actually pretty cheap for what you get (more than just total loss accidents).
Most write-offs are like this one, a rear ender. Battery survived but the rest of the car didn't. Again, this is why you need replacement insurance. Depreciation on a new EV, or any expensive car is atrocious.
I agree with RP with the 5 year replacement insurance, been using this since it became available with auto insurance. With the cost of repairs today, does not take much for complete write off. Dan
