One pedal driving not necessarily efficient?

One pedal driving includes coasting in the Mini as far as I’m concerned as you not only modulate how far you push down to accelerate but how much you back off to control how much regen you get and thus how quickly you slow down. You are also able to move the power needle to the “ready” position to coast by not backing off the pedal fat enough to induce regen.
So these journalists writing that one pedal driving is not as efficient as coasting need to learn how to do one pedal driving correctly, which includes coasting. Exactly the same in a Tesla too.
I seem to get far more range around town and on the highway than these journalists, even so called EV experts as self labeled by this very sites YouTube presenters and I suspect that is simply down to right foot control. I use coasting all the time, not just before red lights (if far enough away) but also on the highway if a car moves into my lane up ahead or if I get to a downhill section etc.

 

I think it's closer to 3 pedal driving without the clutch pedal and neutral. The transition from 1st gear engine braking to SE braking regen was nothing to write home about.

That being said if you have a top hinged throttle pedal, left hand paddle braking is apparently the optimal solution.

 

I do this with ACC out on the open road with sparse traffic, clicking down by 1 km/h every few seconds (so my brake lights don’t come on), it floats right at Ready. By the time their avatar shows up on my instrument cluster, I’ve matched their speed.

 

If you want to try it, true coasting is available with a flick of the wrist. Just put your SE into neutral and you will be coasting. I do this on occasion just so I can force the friction brakes to clean off my rotors. Otherwise road salt would eat them alive.

I do wish that the regen switch had three settings - high/low/off. I’d love to have a drive mode available with zero regen.


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Also I think there’s a disconnect between “coasting” and “cruising.”

Today I happened to find myself on a fairly empty exurban stroad with a posted 50 km/h limit, so I thought I’d try a little unscientific experimentation. Lights are about 2 km (~1¼ miles) apart. Cruising at 60 km/h as steadily as I could hold my foot in Green, the e-power needle floated just above standby and the Bordcomputer showed between 6 and 10 kWh/100 km (6 to 10 mi/kWh).

But then a light changed way up ahead (around 500 metres, more than ¼ mile), and I let up just enough to get the needle into the DMZ and the BC to read 0.0. The coast-down was impossibly slow, from -0.2 km/h/s (5 s/km/h) to -1 km/h/s. In the last 80 metres or so I was still at 30 km/h and had to brake with regen followed by a short stab of the pedal to stop.

Note that in that few seconds of regen the BC dipped to almost -5 kWh/100 km, perhaps less generated per-distance than what I’d use cruising those initial ~420 metres at 60 km/h, but certainly not enough of a difference to go through all the aggravation of focusing on the instruments instead of the road and staying as steady as possible… not to mention the possibility of raising the ire of less-enlightened ICE drivers behind me. I remember being stuck behind this 50-something dude 20-odd years ago near the Big House, pulse-&-gliding his Gen 1 Insight to fuel economy glory, and I had a few not-nice thoughts!

 

And again, the article’s title is misleading. “One-pedal driving” encompasses all phases: acceleration, cruising, coasting down, and braking (regenerative or perhaps friction or both).