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Discussion in 'Clarity' started by chaula, Apr 23, 2018.
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where and which ev level 2 charger should I buy for my new honda clarity touring?
unless your really need to rapidly (2.5 hrs) recharge during the day no need for it. stick with 110 charging overnight. you save a bundle between not buying a new charger and extra cost of 220 vs 110 line addition
I like L2 charging because car can easily be recharged after a short break. My wife runs around throughout the day, so the more she can get it charged over a short period, the more she can drive all electric. It will charge close to 90% in 1 hr 50 minutes so even just 1 hour on the charger can easily add 20 or 25 miles range.
There are some other threads for L2 you might want to look at:
I would stick to a name brand EVSE from a reputable company. Clipper Creek, Charge Point, Siemens, Bosch, Schneider, etc.
I have a Siemens VersiCharge, and it works great. Unlike some of the more fancy units (*cough*JuiceBox*cough), it's dirt simple, so not a whole lot of stuff to break/go wrong. I snagged it on sale for only $359 on Amazon, but every few months it seems Costco has them on sale for less than $400.
If I were in your shoes, I'd charge on level 1 for now, and keep an eye out for a good deal on a simple, reliable L2 charger.
You should also get a few quotes from electricians for installing 240 volt service to your garage. In many cases the cost of the electrical work is more than the price for the charger!
Any level 2 EVSE rated 30 amps or more will max out your charging ability. Some think buying a 40 or 50 amp EVSE is best for "future proofing". There are level 2 EVSEs that are rated only 16 amps for way less money, but you give up a lot on the charging time. Depends on what you want to do.
I have a Clipper Creek HCS-40 32 amp EVSE. No bells or whistles, just a US made EVSE. I returned home last night having used the full charge on the battery. 2 hours 10 minutes later the Honda app reported my car was fully charged with 51 miles of available EV range.
believe it or not, but I found it was cheaper to have them drop the correct 240 outlet for a plug in Level 2 charger than to have them "connect a Level 2 car charger for permanent installation." Guess the later is spiffier than the former (which looks like a dryer outlet).
A level 2 charger (EVSE for the politically correct) is not absolutely needed unless you drive more than a full charge distance 35-50 miles in a day and come home between trips. Then it comes in handy for a quick charge between trips.
I went for a ChargePoint due to its excellent software for tracking kW/$. It’s also a nice looking unit with a very small footprint and 2 yr warranty. If you don’t care about about WiFi/software tracking you can go cheaper. I just got an email saying ChargePoint is having a 20% off sale.
I saved money by running the wire myself, buying the 40 amp breaker for $8, and just paying an electrician for 1hr labor/service call to hook the ends up and sign off on the paperwork. Took him all of 15 min. Also saved $50 by buying the direct wire version with no plug. ChargePoint also saves a little by only needing a 2 wire+ground instead of a 3 wire+g.
As posted, any reputable brand will work, but I’ve seen enough posts about problems with Juicebox to put that one last on my list.
Personally, I don’t worry about future proofing, as the technology is changing so rapidly as to make looking ten years into the future a shot in the dark.
That is a great idea to run the wire yourself, I hadn't thought of that. As long as a person follows code, and running wire is the time intensive part and the part that no one likes. It would save a lot of the labor of having it ready to go.
Agree with direct wire, the problem is outlets come only in 30 or 50 amp, the 30 not being enough, the 50 requiring 6 gauge wire that is more expensive and harder to run. Hardwired 40 amp circuit (32 amp continuous) is easy since it works with 8 gauge and many EVSE units and cars charge at 30 amp.
I agree about future proofing (not really necessary). EV efficiency won't change that much so having 240 V L2 at 30 amps is always going to give you about 20 or 25 mile range per hour on average. Size your circuit on how fast you want to be able to charge. Clarity seems about the sweet spot at approximately 7 kw. My Volt was a tad slow at 3.3 kW, I really notice a difference between the two. The Volt was fine, but used gas many times because the charger wasn't quick enough.
I'm with KentuckyKen here. The Charpepoint Home is an excellent level 2 charger. It tells me exactly how much energy I'm using so I can calculate stats. I agree that most of the time you don't need a fast recharge, but there have been some days running multiple trips around town that it has come in handy.
I just want the level 2 charger so i can turn on the AC on in the summer. we are based on time of use rates and many times the car wouldnt charge in the super off peak rate. I understand thats not going to ever offset the charger cost but Its a plus. Mainly wanted the preconditioning. Lets face it driving an EV is a luxury.
Charging on L1 rather than L2 is better for the battery long term, but use L2 if your driving needs exceed an overnight L1 charge or you've got a weird time of use electric rate that dictates a narrower charge window.
In Ottawa canada i am looking to install 240V circuit for chargepoint plugin 32 amp charger. To add the circuit to my panel, the 1 quote i have so far is $1700+tax which seems excessive (~ 6ft linear distance from electrical panel to garage wall, maybe 12-20ft copper run:.
For any ontarions does this seem reasonable or is it at least 50% over expectations. To be clear: the chargepoint is already purchased: $1700 is just for the circuit run to the garage +nema outlet.
if you can return the charger you might consider sticking with 120 line. waiting 2 1/2 hrs for just 50 miles in a pinch doesn't seem worth so much money when you can just use a little gas on rare occasions.
For reference I paid $900 for a 50 amp dedicated circuit from my panel 50ft away from my garage. This was done all through the walls and attic through vaulted ceilings (no exposed conduit). I thought that was a lot. Looks like you would benefit from multiple quotes.
There are a lot of variables to an install such as:
1. If your main panel can handle the dedicated circuit and has space
2. The path the new conductor needs to go and if you want it exposed in conduit or in wall.
3. Cost of local permitting.
Also I feel (my personal feelings) some electricians price depending on what your installing. I feel asking to install a Nema 14-50 for a welder would yield a more competitive quote over asking for a Nema 14-50 for a car charger. There is something about the car charger that says you have extra money. That might just be me.
Not a Canadian, but I know from experience that as soon as you mention solar or electric vehicle charging the prices seem to go up dramatically. May I suggest getting some more quotes but not mentioning any thing other than that you want a NEMA 14-50 plug in your garage.
$1500 seems pretty steep. Even for Southern California, our cost was only $550 for two 50A lines at a run of about 40 ft from the panel to the garage (via the attic). We were installing a new 200A panel at the same time, so that may have had a bit to do with the difference in cost.
I am in Toronto. I think with EV rebate in the province, all installation quote have gone up this year.
My quote for 200A service upgrade from 100A is $2400. (I haven't bother asking for another quote.)
The run to my detached garage is in the area of $1500, trenching is extra $1000. He is asking me to trench myself to save some money.
If I want to submit for rebate, I need to have it inspected, and that is what it will cost me.
without ESA inspection, I can do without the 200A upgrade.
I only spent $200 for the complete install of my level 2 charger, 50 amps, 10 feet from the main breaker in my garage. I'm in So Cal. Godspeed.
I am planning on getting solar, and I asked one of the companies the cost of installing a 240v circuit, was quoted ~$650. w/10 ft copper run and conduit. This is in Northern California.
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That seems high if you already have 200 amp sevice and all you need is a 40 amp breaker and a 10’ft run to a receptacle. Get more quotes and don’t mention the expensive words solar and electric vehicle.