@Puppethead noted in the Tires (Summer/Winter/All-Season) thread that the MINI Cooper SE's heat pump helps reduce the battery's burden of warming the cabin: It's interesting to see how much plumbing is required under the SE's hood to provide cooling for the battery, cooling for the motor, cooling for the electronics, and heating for the cabin. It makes the plumbing for an internal-combustion engine look simple in comparison. The heat pump is such a good idea that it gets all the press, but what about the resistance heater? I assume the resistance heater is what warms the cabin when the car is plugged in, because the motor, inverter, and a fully-charged battery are not creating any heat for the heat pump to transfer to the cabin. The whole reason for a heat pump is to provide a means of heating the cabin that requires less battery power than the resistance heater. So I want to know what I can do to maximize the usage of the heat pump and minimize the activity of the resistance heater. Here are my questions about the heat pump and the resistance heater: How much does heat pump activity reduce the MINI Cooper SE's range? How much does resistance heater activity reduce the MINI Cooper SE's range? At what temperature does the resistance heater kick in to assist the heat pump? Do I need to install an LED indicator to know when the resistance heater kicks in? Will setting the climate-control temperature to 60 degrees favor heat pump usage? Is selecting Green+ mode the only way to disable the resistance heater? How does Green mode restrict heat pump and the resistance heater operation? Does the BMW i3's heat pump work the same way as the MINI Cooper SE's? I'm sure others have even better questions and, hopefully, ideas about extending range when the weather turns cold.