Electrical Interference When Charging?

Discussion in 'Clarity' started by M.M., May 16, 2018.

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  1. Viking79

    Viking79 Well-Known Member

    Interesting, I had a couple flickering LED bulbs and replaced them and flicker went away, so I will write it off as unrelated bulb failures.

    I charge with two 32 A EVSEs at the same time and haven't noticed issues, but haven't tried to analyze the power either.

    I wonder if this is EVSE or car related, is someone tracking setups that have been problematic to see if there is any correlation with brand or anything?

    My Clarity is on a ChargePoint home and i3 on ClipperCreek HCS40, dedicated 40A Square D breakers (not arc fault) with 200 A main.
     
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  3. bluuk

    bluuk New Member

    I think it would have to be car related since the EVSE is mostly just a 240V contactor. There is some circuitry that checks for ground faults and tells the car the maximum available charging current but there are no components in the EVSE that could cause the reported distortion and flicker.
     
  4. Viking79

    Viking79 Well-Known Member

    Could a bad contactor cause the issue? Say if it is unable to hold the circuit closed and maybe arcs or engages/disengages rapidly?
     
  5. bluuk

    bluuk New Member

    I would expect more noise from the EVSE if the contactor was doing that. I'd pop the cover off of the EVSE and check voltage between the line and load side of the contactor while the car is charging to eliminate the EVSE as a possible cause.

    The strength of the voltage source from the power company will also affect how much the voltage waveform is distorted. A weak source from the utility will allow the voltage waveform to be distorted more by harmonics in the current than a stronger source. This will make the harmonics noticeable on other equipment since the voltage they see is distorted. I've never noticed any issues while charging at 30 amps but we're fed from a relatively large transformer and the secondary cable from the transformer to our house is very short, giving us a pretty strong source. Our lights rarely flicker when the AC compressor kicks on and the voltage drop during steady state operation is around 0.5V lower than unloaded voltage.
     
  6. lordsutch

    lordsutch Member

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  8. M.M.

    M.M. Active Member

    It's definitely the car.

    After discussing with some co-workers, the conclusion was the same as was mentioned here: Something in the car's AC/DC converter is flaking out and both overcurrenting and chopping out about an eighth of the waveform on the trailing edge of some cycles.

    To confirm definitively, I took apart my Siemens charger (found the previously-mentioned dial to turn down max current), put the CTs on the output of the charger (downstream of the contactor), put the voltage clips downstream of the contactor as well, and the result was identical. Mostly clean voltage waveform, chopped current waveform. I cannot see any way it could be something the charger is doing, even something wacky like a short, as that would affect the voltage at that point.

    I'd still like to hear it doing it hooked to another charger (we have one at work, and it seems to now be doing it for the first ~3 minutes of a charge--maybe until it warms up?--so I may test), but this is enough to go to Honda service with and complain. I just hope they're willing to put me in touch with an engineer who I can explain it to, since I'm skeptical a regular vehicle tech is going to have any idea what I'm talking about.

    Just musing, two possible internal failures we could think of:

    Something in the high-frequency AC/DC converter that is putting load on the charger is flaking out, pushing the current to a peak about 20% higher than it's supposed to be, then about an eighth of a waveform off the peak it realizes that it's overcurrented and cuts out, dropping current to zero for a short period, then it picks back up an eighth of a cycle or so later wherever it was supposed to be on the curve.

    The other possibility is that it's overcurrenting to make up net power equivalent to what's being lost in the missing chunk of waveform due to some other internal issue, but the fact that the chopped bit is always on the trailing edge of overcurrented peaks seems to be the opposite of what that would indicate.

    For those wondering if they're having a similar problem: Put your ear near either your breaker panel, any LED bulb in your house, or probably a UPS or other electronic power supply. If it is making a rattling noise when your car is charging, and only then, you probably have the same failure although it's going to be a bear to diagnose without fancy equipment. If it isn't making any hum other than what it usually does, your car is fine, and any problems you're having are probably just due to the increased load.

    Technical aside: I logged harmonics in the second test I did, and for bonus interesting points that time things were rattling for about two minutes, then they stopped audibly rattling but the waveform still looked like garbage for another minute, then it went to normal.

    There were no really high-value harmonics going on, but the 3rd, 5th, and 10th order harmonics were higher than normal and spiky while it was noisy, decreased noticeably when the noise stopped, and then decreased much more when the waveform stabilized. The 7th and 9th order harmonics were higher than normal and spiky when it was noisy, increased when the noise stopped but the waveform was still wonky, then decreased when the waveform went back to normal. Nothing else up through 21st order changed much.

    Which seems in my not-an-electric-engineer-oversimplified-analysis say that it's some combination of the 3rd, 5th, and 10th order harmonics that are causing every electronic power supply in my house to rattle.
     
  9. vicw

    vicw Active Member

    I haven't toyed with this setting on the Siemens Versicharge, but the Installation Guide specifies Setting 0-4 of the Amperage Adjustment, page 20-21, ranging from position 0-MIN-6 Amps-1.44kW, up to 4-MAX-30 Amps-7.2 kW, so it appears to be user selected. I have mine set to the default MAX 7.2 kW, and I'm seeing an overall average power drain of 6.55 kWh through the overall charge cycles, which seems normal, since that the charge tapers off toward the end of each charge.
     
  10. AlanSqB

    AlanSqB Active Member

    @M.M. That is an excellent analysis. It’s the car. I will go out on a limb and guess that this noise is also a factor in the ChargePoint station issues we have seen. It’s enough noise to scramble the I2C communication between my EVSE control board and the display, I think it’s probably enough to cause some EVSE controllers to fault.

    This is not ideal and probably won’t be an easy fix.
     
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  11. K8QM

    K8QM Active Member

    Tying that to the ChargePoint issues is clever and could be right on the money.

    I tried a public charger (unfortunately I didn’t note the brand) earlier in the week and it faulted out two times after just a couple of minutes but then charged normally after that, which would lend credence to a warm up time before normal operation.

    geo
     
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  13. M.M.

    M.M. Active Member

    It had occurred to me from the start that it's not impossible that the charging station quirks some people have reported might be due to the same problem, but I was and am reluctant to point the finger without more evidence.

    Given the effect on electronics in my house I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if it caused glitches in charger error detection or communication (although it's never tripped the safeties in my Siemens charger), but for the same reason I would be surprised that people didn't simply hear it if it really was the same issue--it's not loud, but it's very noticeable if you're standing near a breaker panel or piece of electronics.

    The other thing is that this absolutely cannot be an expected mode of operation for the charger--it's an outright failure. Question is whether it's a relatively common failure or a fluke. We'll know, I suppose, if Honda issues a service bulletin or recall for the charger eventually.

    Now that I've got fairly definitive evidence I'm going to see what my dealer's service department has to say. We'll see if I manage to squeeze any info out of someone higher on the service food chain.
     
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  14. ab13

    ab13 Active Member

    The other thread is "Plug-in charging system problem", which has some posts saying Honda is working on charger issues.
     
  15. AEV

    AEV New Member

    I have a similar problem with my 2018 Clarity PHEV and have eliminated all other possible sources of interference. I have not have this issue with other EVs charging on the circuit/EVSE which has been in daily use for the past two years.

    I assume the remedy would be to replace the in vehicle charger under warranty.

    Has Honda resolved this issue or taken responsibility for anyone experiencing similar problems?

    Thanks.
     
  16. M.M.

    M.M. Active Member

    Out of curiosity (to distinguish from other possible issues), if you crouch near the rear passenger wheel well can you hear a clicking/rattling sound? That's a definitive symptom in my case, and I have heard it on a public charger at least once now. It does it for about the first 2-5 minutes of about every other charge event pretty consistently now.

    And no, I haven't gotten any resolution.

    I tried writing to Honda tech support and including some scope captures, but just got a generic response back telling me to take it to my dealer. When I did that and explained the problem, they admitted there was absolutely nothing they could do to diagnose it (heck, I used a $10,000 AC power analyzer to pin it down) and recommended I call Honda. I've been meaning to try and get a phone call escalated, but life has been busy and since it's not actually causing any problems I just haven't made the time to sit down on the phone for however long it will take to get to someone who might pay attention.

    It's still on my to-do list and I will certainly report if I ever get anything out of Honda.
     
  17. AEV

    AEV New Member

    The impact of the interference it significant at my house as it causes low frequency flicker on all lighting though out my house. I have wide variety of LED lights and dimmers from multiple manufacturer, on multiple circuits on the all beaker panels. The EVSE is on a dedicated 50 amp circuit on shared secondary breaker panel with a 100 amp feeder. Since the problem presented the on its initial charge at my house, I swapped my ClipperCreek HCS-40P with a Chargepoint Home. A licensed electrician serviced my 15 year old house electrical system, tightening all connections and replacing all components with signs of corrosion (meter socket, supply lines). My power company installed a diagnostic monitor at the meter that measured voltages at 0.1 second intervals. Stable voltages were recorded at all times, included charging sessions/flicker events. The power company then moved my electrical services to a new, dedicated 10 KVA pole transformer 50 feet from my house/meter to eliminate the possibility of issues with the shared pole transformer or interference from my neighbors.

    After the above, I did take my Clarity to a dealer for the interference problem and interrupted charge sessions. A high input voltage DTC was read and Service Bulletin 18-097 was applied. The DTC is suspect I had interrupted charging sessions while the meter monitor reported stable voltages. The deal did "listen" for audible noise during charge and heard none. However, the EVSE at the dealer is likely at 208 volts since the dealerships usually have step -down power transformers.

    I have not monitored the breaker panel or vehicle during these events. I will do so and post an update.
     
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  18. M.M.

    M.M. Active Member

    Wow, AEV, that sounds much worse than my problem and l'm impressed with the effort both you and your utility put in to try and resolve it at the power system level.

    It doesn't sound like they did a current or harmonics analysis, but they sure ruled out everything else. If I lived anywhere near you I'd gladly take the power analyzer I used to see if you're seeing the same weird chopped waveform thing, or if you have an entirely different problem. I'm actually guessing different due to the (presumably spurious) high input voltage error, which my car didn't generate.

    For what it's worth (this applies to everyone else as well) the charger itself is unlikely to be a factor, since from a power standpoint they just pass through the AC directly to the car so don't really have the capability to generate any problems unless the contactor were chattering.

    Also, I have heard the audible rattling on both my household 240V and the commercial 208V charger at work, but as noted previously it didn't have any visible effect on any of the LED lights in my house, which leads me to believe your problem is probably something different (and, it would seem, much worse).
     

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