My battery finished charging last night at 10pm as I wasn't driving much yesterday. Current outside temp is around -11C/12F and my garage temp is about -2C/29F (last night's low in close to -20C/-4F so the garage was really cold). When I checked the app to see what the GOM said, it's 48km/30miles which is what I expect. The only thing I didn't expect is the 'Warming Up' message and the Green LED is still on at the charge port which I have never seen before (see attached pictures). I presume this is to keep the battery warm and I also presume this is only on Canadian Clarity as US does not have a battery warmer.
Yes that's normal. Depending on the type of l2 charger you have...you can see it turning on and off throughout the night. Check mine from a chargepoint charger. The large spike at the end is preconditioning. Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Inside EVs mobile app
Thanks Jason, I don't have a L2 charger as it will cost me over $3000 to install it in my garage as I only have a 100A panel and the electrician said I need some kind of power controller ($1500) so I don't over power the panel which is impossible as I don't use the oven, dryer, washer, stove and charger all at the same time but provincial regulation, what can I do... I guess the car will use the battery to keep itself warm even when it's not plugged in like when you are in a parking lot
I believe it's been confirmed that the Canadian Clarity's battery warmer operates only when the Clarity is plugged in and only after charging is complete. The charging process by itself warms the battery before the battery warmer kicks in later, if needed.
Your profile won't let me start a conversation with you Edit: I msg you using one of our old converstation
I've had my Clarity since January and I also saw this message earlier this week for the first time ever. I wonder if it was an update to the HondaLink app.
I have a 120 Amp Panel and installed a Level-2 EVSE and have no problems at all. Why? Because my car charges at 4 am when I am asleep. I do not wash / dry clothes or use the Stove at that early hour. And, when I want to charge during the day - I make sure my energy usage isn't extreme.
I wish I have a 120A panel but I only have 100A and that makes all the difference. I have 21A left in my panel so if I have a 120A, that's enough for a 40A breaker for a L2 charger but with 100A, I don't have enough to do anything. I contacted 2 electricians and both said you must have enough on your panel for all your electrical equipment max need and not just I will never turn on everything at once as per regulation so....
Isn’t it possible to install what I think is called a subpanel This is what we have at a house we just built, “upstream” of the main panel in the house: We had something similar installed at another home for power to a hot tub with a maxed-out panel in the house.
Did you consider a 230V, 16 A charger? See the thread. They go for about $200-300 and use a dryer outlet, which may be way cheaper to have installed. It should be able to fit into a 100 A panel. https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/considering-getting-a-16-amp-charger-anyone-have-any-experience.4009/
Thanks for the suggestion ab13. I talked to a 3rd electrician and he took the time to explain some things to me. Apparently the local code was changed mid-summer where anyone that wants to install a car charger, hot tub, anything that draws high amp are now required to do what they call a load calculation before they can install new cable/outlet even though theoretically you will never run everything all at the same time. The installation cost is still going to be about C$1000 (I would want to use heavy gauge as I might want to change my panel to 200A in the future so I don't have to redo a new installation for 32/40A charger) and the 16A charger is about C$300-400 which is not worth it to me for the 50% or so faster charge time for the cost. My dealer is 2km from my house so for the last month or so, I just drove to the dealer and use their L2 charger for an hour or so to top up due to the shorter range in the winter, my car is toasty warm with pre-conditioning at 25C/77F with me sitting inside the car doing some work. When I get a new car in 6-8 years or so (hopefully full electric and faster charging standard), I might have no choice but to upgrade to a 200A panel.
Could you possibly get around that by installing a transfer switch that would make it physically impossible to run all at the same time? And still meet code Something like this?