Is there a way to read the miles/KwH rate for the Clarity? My Chevy Bolt has a running (changing) current and cumulative total for this key figure. I'm mostly wondering what it actually costs me to charge & to drive the car, and I am too lazy to read my electric meter before & after a charge (which is complicated by my solar system & reversible meter.
Not without an OBD device. The data is available if you have an external tool to track it, but you get no access to any such data through the tablet in the car.
Figure 14kWh for a full charge. If you get 47 miles from that charge you’re going 3.36 miles/kWh. 42 miles per charge = 3 miles per kWh.
Close. OBD is Onboard Diagnostics. You can plug in a diagnostic tool to the OBD port on cars made in the last 15 years.
I agree with this... We have found no way to obtain this figure from the vehicle (even with an OBD2 device). After over 2 years of tracking both gas and electric input, I get 3.4 miles per kWh, very close to the simple calculation from @Landshark. This of course is an overall composite. It is lower in the winter and higher in the summer.
If you're looking for more data at a reasonable price, the Autel AP200 seems to be the best choice. It's a small module that plugs into the OBDII (the 2nd-generation On-Board Diagnostic) connector under every car's dashboard. I communicates wirelessly with your phone running the Autel app. This thread reveals the app will soon be upgraded to read the holy grail of Clarity data: the Battery Capacity Signal. Honda service facilities have a fancy computer to read OBDII data and they use the Battery Capacity Signal to determine if your Clarity's battery has degraded enough to get a free replacement under warranty.
Below is a cut of a partial thread on m/KwH This info covered the first year of ownership. Plan to cipher on year 2 when I get a chance. Battery degradation expected so curious on real world decrease of the numbers below. ..."Hit the one year milestone September 15. Below are the numbers followed by a short review. Numbers are raw and as collected. Understand rounding was used and yes there is a small margin of error either direction. 10,203 miles 1743.39 kWh 72.35 gallons of gas 52 mpg*** HV mode Cost $351.24 (petrol + kWh) ~3760 miles on the ICE ~6440 miles EV ~3.69 average m/kWh...(mean ~3.93 m/kWh) Surely numbers will change year over year due to circumstances...But this at least provides a baseline to compare with next year's numbers. More data will tighten the curve for sure"... Link to OP dated September 2019. https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/one-year-ownership-stats.6853/ Hope this helps!
Get a generic ODB adapter from eBay for like $2-$20 range. Use your phone to monitor the data. I have an iPhone so I got a Viecar Bluetooth 4.0 compatible ODB adapter and it’s working mostly great with Car Scanner app. On highway cruising it pulls around 60amp, on hills or fast acceleration it can be around 230amp. Downhill regen also shows sometimes up to 200amp going back to the battery. AC uses about 10amp, heater 5-20amp. See my screen captures of my setup. At 311V. One is with heater and AC on while waiting, and the other is coming off a hwy ramp to a stop (regen brakes).
This is fine, and interesting to some of us, but it does not answer the OP's original question. He wanted to know the EV 'efficiency' in terms of miles per kWh (or similar). As far as I know, the vehicle does not provide this kind of measure (through the OBD or otherwise), unlike the Bolt.
Not sure how that would be calculated with a PHEV, since he wants to know how many miles he gets from kWh obtained from the plug and not the ICE (he was looking at cost to charge). With a BEV it's fairly straightforward (but the miles/kWh is measured from the battery and does not take into account charging losses)
Yeah it’s not straight forward. For PHEV it is easy to not use gas at all. Then you could probably do it the old way, check what percentage you used on that session and knowing what the battery capacity is. You can get the percentage detail from the Honda app or real time from OBD adapter with a phone app.
Well, maybe it is not as straight-forward, but the engine computer always knows whether the ultimate source of energy is the battery or gasoline. Couldn't it segregate energy use (and miles) into 2 bins (gas and electric), something like this: In EV mode, the energy source is the battery (no different than the straight-forward BEV). In HV mode, the energy source is gasoline. Yes, the battery is used as a temporary buffer for regeneration, climbing, etc. But, fundamentally it is a gasoline-only mode because there is no net change in battery charge. In HV_Charge, this is a gasoline mode, but there is a net change in battery charge. You would book the excess kWh input to the battery as EV energy and the remainder as gas. In Direct Drive, then all energy is gas. Yes, this would be from the perspective of battery output (so charging losses would not be accounted for). It seems like the vehicle is capable of breaking apart electric energy & miles/kWh from gasoline energy & MPG.
Honda will never do such thing on a low volume car. We’d be lucky to even have them fix the A pillar trim to sit flush on the driver side dash. And just look at how crappy the GUI of the infotainment is. Half finished and very sluggish.
If you know the amount of energy that your solar array feeds back in to the grid, you can determine what percentage of your electrical consumption is offset by the array. I total up the credited kWh’s for the year from each monthly bill. It works out to ~42% of the total kWh’s used. Our rate is $.11/kWh, less 42% makes it $.064/kWh. At that rate it is less than $1 per full charge. It’s an easy, once a year calculation that takes less than 10 minutes. Some years I haven’t bothered because it always comes up the same. Although, now with the Clarity on the juice it will probably knock the percentage offset down to around 40%. Some folks drive themselves nuts with details like the fixed monthly charges, the cost of the solar install or concocting some rationale of how the panels make more electricity than the car uses, so the electricity going to the car must be free. I just figure the electricity is $.065/kWh for the entire house. Simple, easy measures for the lazy man.
