Is anybody else measuring energy and power into the charger?

K

ken wells

Member
I have a Tacklife EM02 power and energy meter that I plug the standard charger into. I find that my charger is only consuming 10.86 (+/- .05) amps, about 10% lower than the specified 12 amps. This is about 1.26 kW at my average line voltage. Yesterday I charged from about 2.5 bars (just before the Clarity is forced into HV mode) all the way to "100%" and the meter showed 15.2 kWh. If I assume 90% efficiency from the wall outlet to the actual battery, that's 13.7 kWh delivered to the battery which is 80% of the 17 kWh specification of the battery. That seems like about the standard usable range for EV batteries.

Has anyone else measured their charging rate with the Honda charger?
 
"Has anyone else measured their charging rate with the Honda charger?"
No, but my Mustart 32 amp charger records 13.8 kWh to go from 2 bars (0 EV miles) to a full charge.
 
ken wells said:
I have a Tacklife EM02 power and energy meter that I plug the standard charger into. I find that my charger is only consuming 10.86 (+/- .05) amps, about 10% lower than the specified 12 amps. This is about 1.26 kW at my average line voltage. Yesterday I charged from about 2.5 bars (just before the Clarity is forced into HV mode) all the way to "100%" and the meter showed 15.2 kWh. If I assume 90% efficiency from the wall outlet to the actual battery, that's 13.7 kWh delivered to the battery which is 80% of the 17 kWh specification of the battery. That seems like about the standard usable range for EV batteries.

Has anyone else measured their charging rate with the Honda charger?
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Yes, there are lots of threads and posts about charge rate and charge totals on here, using the Honda cord as well as other brands. Your measurements are close to everyone else’s experiences. Run a couple of searches if you want numbers from other members. Keep in mind the charger is in the car, not the cord.
 
Sandroad said:
Yes, there are lots of threads and posts about charge rate and charge totals on here, using the Honda cord as well as other brands. Your measurements are close to everyone else’s experiences. Run a couple of searches if you want numbers from other members. Keep in mind the charger is in the car, not the cord.
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^^^ Yes, this is 100% correct.
The L1 chargers are not as efficient as running L2 charging (kWh in/out).

Mine measures 9-10A using the Honda OEM charger; while the Duosida dual voltage 16A charging at L1 draws 12-13A.
The car does not ask the charger to pull more current which is fine, I'd rather have the battery charge cooler than trying to run hotter..
 
6.24kWh = $0.76=0 to Full charge=37 miles. Fruita Colorado, winter conditions, car charged overnight in garage at about 42 degrees F. Using iDevices "Switch" WiFi plug and iDevices app to monitor.

Still cheaper and more convenient than buying gas.
 
Sandroad said:
Keep in mind the charger is in the car, not the cord.
Click to expand...

Yes, the charger is in the car, but the cord tells the charger how much current may be drawn from this outlet. The charger obeys this limit unless it is more than the current rating of the charger, or near the end of charge when the charger in the car ramps down the final current being drawn.

The big tumor on the Honda supplied cord sends a 1 kHz square wave to the car. The duty cycle tells the car how much current is available (roughly 1% per ampere). In my case, my cord seems to be limiting my charge current to about 90% of the Honda spec. I was wondering how much variation there is in the Honda cords.
 
4sallypat said:
^^^ Mine measures 9-10A using the Honda OEM charger; while the Duosida dual voltage 16A charging at L1 draws 12-13A.
Click to expand...
That's interesting that it runs 16A in L2 mode but limits charging to ~12A in L1 mode. Probably a good idea to prevent popped breakers on non-dedicated charging circuits.
 
ken wells said:
Yes, the charger is in the car, but the cord tells the charger how much current may be drawn from this outlet. The charger obeys this limit unless it is more than the current rating of the charger, or near the end of charge when the charger in the car ramps down the final current being drawn.

The big tumor on the Honda supplied cord sends a 1 kHz square wave to the car. The duty cycle tells the car how much current is available (roughly 1% per ampere). In my case, my cord seems to be limiting my charge current to about 90% of the Honda spec. I was wondering how much variation there is in the Honda cords.
Click to expand...
Here some long threads with data.

https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...-evses-that-are-faster-than-the-oem-one.4258/

https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...t-killawatt-and-level-1-charger-numbers.2790/

https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/level-1-charging.2876/
 
As @Sandroad mentioned, the charger (AC to DC and control circuitry) is in the car. The EVSE is just a switch and shouldn’t have much of an efficiency loss. The internal car charger is approximately 92% efficient based on a document posted that I can’t find again. So your ~80% useful SOC on the total 17 kW battery is a good approximation but it comes more from the car charger inefficiency, especially on the more efficient Level 2 EVSE.

Most posts for Level 2 EVSEs full charges are in the 14.1 to 14.4 kWh range. So 14.4 x 92% = 13.2 kWh delivered to the battery and 13.2/17 = ~78% allowed usage of the traction battery. Thus at least ~22% is used as a buffer but we don’t know exactly how that is split between top and bottom SOC.
 
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