Clarity -> Prologue

  • Thread starter Thread starter Alex800st
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Alex800st said:
My kid takes my Clarity (250kkm mileage) - I had to get another car, and here I am - proud owner of GM vehicle with Honda logo

https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/just-got-my-new-prologue-touring.20207/
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It's funny the Chevy Blazer EV shares its platform with the Prologue, but it isn't as popular as the Prologue. As a car guy, I think it looks pretty good--for an SUV (or crossover).

I'm surprised that Honda can't immediately get the replacement CV axle your new Prologue needs. Have you called your local Chevy dealer to see if they can get one faster? How sad would it be if they can, because it wouldn't be covered by your warranty. If Chevy dealers can't get them, either, perhaps it's a part in high demand. You can still drive your Prologue while your dealer waits for the axle?

In the Clarity forum, @Fastermac says he bought a Prologue, but kept (didn't give away) his Clarity. Later in that thread, @Fastermac explains that you can register your Prologue as a Blazer EV in the Tesla app and then have access to Tesla Superchargers. That would be a big advantage to having your Prologue share the Blazer EV's platform.
 
A brand new vehicle and the CV joints are bad ???? That is hard to explain.
It's a shame that Honda wasn't focused more on their own EV technology and had to lean on GM like this.
The Prologue looks like a nice vehicle. Hopefully this will be a minor glitch on the road to success.

You had a very nice run with the Clarity so far (and it's still going) !
 
oh BTW there is a lease promo from Honda. Don't remember exact detail, but I think it is $199+ $3k (i think) due at signing, 36 months,10k miles /yr. Its a good deal if you need to get a new car
 
megreyhair said:
oh BTW there is a lease promo from Honda. Don't remember exact detail, but I think it is $199+ $3k (i think) due at signing, 36 months,10k miles /yr. Its a good deal if you need to get a new car
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This is a little off-topic and probably warrants its own thread, but I would like to understand more about the pros and cons of leasing vs. buying. I have never really even thought about leasing...

With the deal you mention - simplistically, you would have the car for 3 years at a total cost of ~ $10K? Let's say it would have cost you around $50K to purchase the same car. Can you say that if the purchased vehicle is worth less than $40K after 3 years (seems likely) that you would have been better off leasing?

At the end of the lease, I think there is an option to buy? What determines the price to buy at end of lease? Is that known up-front when you sign a lease?

What if you exceed the 10K miles in a year? I assume you incur some extra fee?

What about other considerations? How does insurance work? Do you have to insure the vehicle on your own just like when you own it?
 
MrFixit said:
At the end of the lease, I think there is an option to buy? What determines the price to buy at end of lease? Is that known up-front when you sign a lease?

What if you exceed the 10K miles in a year? I assume you incur some extra fee?

What about other considerations? How does insurance work? Do you have to insure the vehicle on your own just like when you own it?
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Typically, the residual value of the car (what you would pay to buy it at the end of the lease) is clearly stated in the lease contract when you sign it.

If you exceed the annual mileage, it would incur a fixed amount per excess mile, again clearly stated in the lease contract. If you buy the car at the end of the lease, no penalty is incurred.

During your time with the car in a lease, you are responsible for licensing and insuring it the same as if you bought it.
 
Do you feel that lease contracts are straight-forward, or do they tend to be a little slimy where you have to really be on your toes so something doesn't slip by and surprise you later?
 
MrFixit said:
Do you feel that lease contracts are straight-forward, or do they tend to be a little slimy where you have to really be on your toes so something doesn't slip by and surprise you later?
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In the US, lease contracts are generally straightforward.
Be careful about assumptions though

Leasing can be instructive
I leased an A4 25 years ago. Quattro was a IIRC 8k add. Difference in lease price? ZERO. The value of the car at the end of lease is so much more that it was free
Weird,huh?
A lease is Sales price-depreciation+interest+costs-residual, period
In this case a Quattro depreciates so much less than a 2WD that it overwhelmed the additional sales price and interest
Remember that when shopping



If you might drive more than the lease mileage, AND you never want to buy the car, don't lease
"good" lease deals frequently have ambitious residuals, which is bad if you might want to buy the car
However, if you buy smart or are lucky, the price of the car will drop precipitously while you lease it. Again, weird
It is possible, in this situation, if the car is in good shape, that you can renegotiate the purchase price.
I did not say probable, which is why, don't go over miles, don't get in accidents, be prepared to toss the keys
Most lease cars end up at the auction. If the wholesale auction price is significantly lower than the residual, you have leverage.
The company has to pay to run the car through auction, pay for pickup and then get thousands less than your residual.
You have a contract with a 28k residual, but the current auction price is 22K?
You, saint that you are, offer to give them 24K
They say no, you toss them the keys.

THey were giving 2020 Niros away in early 2021. Killer deal. But then I parked it under an oak tree and let my 18 year old drive it

So I was forced to buy it with no leverage, but the residual was not horrid, and it is not a bad car. The lease was cheap through a buydown, not an ambitious residual

So:
Least amount down, other people's money
3 years 3600down 400 a month is not as good a deal as 3 years zero down 500 a month
The second room: Say no to everything
I let them make me pay 10 bucks a month for an insurance thing, [worn tires, door dings, blah blah blah] well, reading the fine print later, the money limits make it worthless. Oh well, so much for me being a smart guy

Counterpoint, my employee had no credit, bought his Soul some years back, and they made him get the extended warranty. Boy did that pay off. 100 bucks a month in add ons was sooooooooooo worth it.

Again, don't count on things working your way.
Appraise the deal that is in front of you
As little cash as you can put down
My Kia deal ended up being an interest free 3 year loan

So you sit down with the guy that wants to steal your money
Sale price is first negotiation
Lease price might my nationally mandated[bring a printout of the deal with you, I did]
Second room, after you negotiate the first deal, is where you get screwed
That is the only place they can add monthly cost to the nationally advertised deal
Say no
no
no
no
 
I think the Honda deal is pretty much set as it comes from Honda America and not a deal from the dealership.
Here's the ad from my local dealership
upload_2025-3-21_9-18-22.webp
upload_2025-3-21_9-18-22.webp
 
megreyhair said:
I think the Honda deal is pretty much set as it comes from Honda America and not a deal from the dealership.
Here's the ad from my local dealership
View attachment 23998
View attachment 23998
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The monthly payment is low because the dealer is taking the $7500 tax credit on the vehicle. Otherwise, the payment would be around $359/mo. It’s a pretty low cost way to drive a $53K car for 3 years. We leased the Jeep 4xe. At the time, leasing was the only way to take advantage of the tax credit at the point of sale.

Residual value is generally around 60% of MSRP for a 36 month lease. In this case, roughly $32K. So Honda needs $21K out of the deal. The up front fees, monthly payments and tax credit total $17K, so there is a shortfall of $4K. Two possible explanations are that the residual value is higher or Honda is providing an incentive to dealers to cover the difference.

Agreeing to a buy out price three years in advance could prove beneficial, given current market uncertainties and the rate at which new vehicle prices have been increasing. The 3 year term also allows for an easy exit should the vehicle turn out to be problematic or if some long promised new technology becomes available. It’s also possible that the tax credit could vaporize without notice.

I plan to lease the Ramcharger when it becomes available for many of the reasons listed above. There’s also the consideration of keeping current assets in play rather than liquidating them to acquire a depreciating asset.
 
Landshark said:
The monthly payment is low because the dealer is taking the $7500 tax credit on the vehicle. Otherwise, the payment would be around $359/mo. It’s a pretty low cost way to drive a $53K car for 3 years. We leased the Jeep 4xe. At the time, leasing was the only way to take advantage of the tax credit at the point of sale.

Residual value is generally around 60% of MSRP for a 36 month lease. In this case, roughly $32K. So Honda needs $21K out of the deal. The up front fees, monthly payments and tax credit total $17K, so there is a shortfall of $4K. Two possible explanations are that the residual value is higher or Honda is providing an incentive to dealers to cover the difference.

Agreeing to a buy out price three years in advance could prove beneficial, given current market uncertainties and the rate at which new vehicle prices have been increasing. The 3 year term also allows for an easy exit should the vehicle turn out to be problematic or if some long promised new technology becomes available. It’s also possible that the tax credit could vaporize without notice.

I plan to lease the Ramcharger when it becomes available for many of the reasons listed above. There’s also the consideration of keeping current assets in play rather than liquidating them to acquire a depreciating asset.
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The current admin has a dim (dumb) view of EVs, but this article says "a repeal of the $7,500 tax credit could take some time to implement because Congressional approval is required." Hopefully, Congress will continue to do nothing and the tax credit will still be available when the Ramcharger hits showrooms.

However, the same article says "Republican Senators introduced bills that will not only eliminate EV tax credits, but also tack on an extra $1,000 fee for EV purchases." (and dumber)
 
Just a note, something Prologue does better than Clarity - when you driving with ACC Clarity sees the car in front of you only if it is moving. If a school bus stopped far ahead in your line, Clarity will come at it at full speed. She does not see stationary objects. Prologue does.
However, Prologue sucks in staying in lane. It is trying, but not as good as Clarity.
 
insightman said:
The current admin has a dim (dumb) view of EVs,
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Actually, they just endorsed a certain brand and our Supreme Leader has indicated, at least for the moment, that he intends to buy one. Apparently it’s efficient for government to patronize and subsidize the businesses of the world’s wealthiest man.

As for the legislative process to which we’ve grown accustomed, it will be interesting to see if it continues as such.
 
The Clarity is pretty awful at attempting to stay in a lane, the Prologue must be nerve wracking. Rumor has it that the Clarity will simply change lanes and pass a school bus on the left. After signaling, of course.

Alex800st said:
However, Prologue sucks in staying in lane. It is trying, but not as good as Clarity.
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Can't stop comparing a Honda to "a Honda".
Key for Clarity have a little LED light to confirm I pressed the button. Key for Prologue not, have to press it hard sitting at home wanting to precondition my car in the garage.
Wireless carplay is great.
Prologue has physical button for radio on/off and volume! Too bad I already got used to steering wheel buttons.
Prologue key is twice as big and heavy as Clarity's
Schedule for Clarity - you set when to start charging. Schedule for Prologue - you set when to stop charging. Why I can't have both - no idea.
Prologue shows consumption/regen numbers in real time.
Here I could be wrong - but it feels like when you touch brake pedal in Clarity, it causes regen first, not enough - then brakes. Feels like no such thing in Prologue, brake is always pads, to have regen - you must use "one pedal drive" mode. (same as Tesla?) To be confirmed.
 
I bought my Prologue Elite in October. I had the axles replaced as well and the main camera module since the 360 cameras were malfunctioning. Took a bit over 2 months to get the parts.

I like the car. Nice ride quality with smooth acceleration. It has good tech yet retains the traditional hvac buttons. Wireless Apple CarPlay works great. Love one pedal driving. My daily commute is under 50 miles. Range is excellent. In the warm weather I get over 300 miles. In really cold temps it dips to the low 200 miles. I charge at home with a 48 amp Juicebox so that is never an issue.

My wife drives the Clarity. Her commute is really short so we only buy a tank of gas a year to keep it fresh. Planning on keeping the Clarity for a long time.
 
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