Dashcam recommendations?

J

jorgie393

Well-Known Member
Sorry, this isn’t strictly speaking a Clarity-specific question. However, the Clarity group seems pretty tech-savvy, and there might be some particular Clarity issues related to powering/routing cables.

Understanding that some of this is style/budget....Anyone have any particular pro or con models they would like to share?

NY Times Wirecutter recommends Papago GoSafe 535 or Magellan MiVue 420...or Garmin 65W if price no object (for its impact sensing).

https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-dash-cam/
 
I installed the Viofo A129 (dual) last Saturday (praised on the dashcamtalk forum). The first camera I've ever installed, and I it was a piece of cake: 1h30m from unpacking to job done, not a cable in sight.
Since it's my first and only camera, I cannot really make comparisons, but it has been working fine so far...
 
clinton said:
I installed the Viofo A129 (dual) last Saturday (praised on the dashcamtalk forum). The first camera I've ever installed, and I it was a piece of cake: 1h30m from unpacking to job done, not a cable in sight.
Since it's my first and only camera, I cannot really make comparisons, but it has been working fine so far...
Click to expand...

What strategy did you use for power cable?
 
I used a Rexing brand dash cam. I got the V2 that has the rear camera built in so I didn’t have to run any wires to the rear window. It’s working great with very good video quality and gets great reviews. And best of all it installed in the windshield behind the rear view mirror and hardly takes up any view forward. The Clarity had the easiest wire hide of any car I’ve seen.

Here is the thread with pictures and description of hiding the wires.

https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...ires-of-a-windshield-mounted-“dash”-cam.1235/

There are several open locations in the fuse box under the dash or you can use an add a fuse gizmo. I’m old and got tired of standing in my head to wire it in so I gave up and used the cig lighter adapter. The Rexing one came with a USB port built in so that was a plus and it’s not noticeable under the center wing.
 
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I put in two Thinkware F50’s. One on the windshield and one in the trunk. For the windshield I ran the wires similar to how KentuckyKen did except I ran the wire along the windshield and then between the dash and A-pillar which took care of the rattle I was having. These dash cams run via capacitor vs a battery so no need to worry about overheating if you live in a hot climate. I really like that they feel solid and are very small which makes them barely visible. I got them on sale at Best Buy for $69 each. Normally they run around $99. For the price these are a steal. There are higher quality cams out there with more features like WiFi etc... but at a higher price point.




https://www.bestbuy.com/site/thinkware-f50-dash-cam-black/5371600.p?skuId=5371600
 
I am using the BlackVue DR750-2CH - the rear camera is installed in the trunk window and works fine there. I paid to have it installed but they had no issues getting it in. The BlackVue has the Sony Starvis sensors which have excellent night vision images. It also has WiFi so you can connect from a cell phone to view the videos, and a cloud feature - you can actually monitor it remotely while your kids are driving it. It is more pricey than the average dash cam but very good quality. They have a 650 and a 590 version for less money with fewer features. You can get the 590 version (still has the starvis sensors) for a little over $200 with a discount - blackboxmycar is a good vendor for these and other models.

A few years ago somebody cut in front of me and I had no room to stop and rear ended them. They claimed I was following too close but I had no proof - the insurance went to arbitration and I had to pay half the costs. If I had a dash cam I would have had proof.
 
Check out the video demos that people post. You want one with enough wide angle to see the cars on the side at a four way stop. That way if someone runs the sign you can see it. Greater than 1080p is preferred.
 
Fofer said:
This post mentions power via a nice USB add-on: https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...hcam-usb-power-from-auto-dimming-mirror.2526/
Click to expand...
Yes, this was very interesting. And I think dashcams that run off 12V wouldn’t even need the buck transformer, which would be desirable to eliminate from space standpoint.

For rear cameras, I think the trunk light serves as a power source there. At least according to the BSS1LPB cross traffic sensor instructions.

I’m the OP, and thanks for all the resources offered.
 
Eagle51 said:
I put in two Thinkware F50’s. One on the windshield and one in the trunk. For the windshield I ran the wires similar to how KentuckyKen did except I ran the wire along the windshield and then between the dash and A-pillar which took care of the rattle I was having. These dash cams run via capacitor vs a battery so no need to worry about overheating if you live in a hot climate. I really like that they feel solid and are very small which makes them barely visible. I got them on sale at Best Buy for $69 each. Normally they run around $99. For the price these are a steal. There are higher quality cams out there with more features like WiFi etc... but at a higher price point.




https://www.bestbuy.com/site/thinkware-f50-dash-cam-black/5371600.p?skuId=5371600
Click to expand...

Great idea using 2 separate dashcam. Can you share us how you get power for the one in the trunk?
 
JJim said:
Great idea using 2 separate dashcam. Can you share us how you get power for the one in the trunk?
Click to expand...

I used the back seat power outlet and ran the wire around the rear passenger seat and through the child seat anchor and snaked it through to the trunk. The power cable was just the right length.
 
I used the Viofo A119.

I selected it because:
- it had high ratings
- it has a capacitor for temporary power instead of a battery. Li-Ion batteries have a history of fire in hot situations. The windshield can get very hot.
- it is black so harder to see from the front of the car
- it is small
- it has a GPS module option

The disadvantage is this model does not have a parking mode.

I ran a power cable through the same cable run as the mirror, then tucked into the headliner, down the door post, and wired it into the fusebox near the driver's door.
 
Eagle51 said:
I used the back seat power outlet and ran the wire around the rear passenger seat and through the child seat anchor and snaked it through to the trunk. The power cable was just the right length.
Click to expand...

Did you mount the camera onto the trunk hood or somewhere inside the trunk? How did you run the wire within the trunk? Could you please share a few photos of this install?
 
alyssai said:
Did you mount the camera onto the trunk hood or somewhere inside the trunk? How did you run the wire within the trunk? Could you please share a few photos of this install?
Click to expand...

I mounted it on the trunk hood a little off center towards the right passenger side due to the cable length. I didn’t need to remove any panels installing it the way I did it. C95AD1ED-00D8-46F6-BAF2-A6D3FDA874E9.webp 175B96A7-D3E9-4E07-9392-C2C2E89DA0E8.webpFA5E2389-5648-4781-AF9C-2A118722AC80.webp 33A8B9E1-3993-451A-9D00-E33B0B32959F.webp
33031CAB-8DA0-44AB-BD6B-36C1B1FA993B.webp
 
JJim said:
Thank you for sharing. How the video quality, Is it dark because the trunk's window is tinted?
Click to expand...

The day footage is good even with the tinted trunk window. I mostly drive the car during daylight hours commuting to and from work so I haven’t had a chance to check any night footage yet.
 
alyssai said:
Do you have G-Force on the camera? I'm afraid opening and closing the trunk will activate it causing my memory card to fill up faster. Does it activate the G-Force on your camera?
Click to expand...
I do but I normally don’t have the car running when I open the trunk.
 
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