Front seat rail bolts?

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hobbit

hobbit

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My roadtrip sleeper-berth is a little tight, mostly because of the dumb movement limitations of the front
passenger seat. I'm toying with the idea of removing it completely, and building a more useful bit of
platform / storage furniture. Without getting into it too far at this point, I see that the mounting rails
are held down with some oddball splined-head bolts, like the socket would have to be a sort of big
inverse Torx type of thing. Has anyone tackled this, and if so what is that fastener type, and where do
we find the right tool for it? Or could I hope to cheat it safely with a generic six-point?

I don't seem to have body mechanical service data handy, so if it's a Hyundai SST I don't have a reference.

I also see from my electrics doc that the seat heater module for *both* seats is tucked up under the
passenger seat itself, so enough of that harness would have to come *off* the removed seat and get
reinstalled to functional, as my driver seat-heater is mandatory for winter jaunts. My bed setup has its
own 12V heated blanket incorporated now, which works great for tthose cold overnights!

I also wonder about having to fake out the airbag connections.

_H*
 
The correct socket is an E12. They are easy to find at auto supply stores or Home Depot and definitely worth the money for that kind of bolt. I can't comment on the wiring. My seat removal project was to remount the seats farther back to accommodate freakishly long legs and the wires had enough slack so I didn't even have to unplug them.

Hobbit, are you living in your car? :)
 
Yes, on my [more numerous than anticipated] roadtrips to FL, I usually overnight at Walmarts [aka
"under the Sign of the Golden Anus"], often after the last day's charge at the EA if it's also a site.
I squeeze into my berth and get pretty comfy; I even incorporate a 12V heated blanket in winter.
But I'd like it to be a little less of a squeeze, with better access to the dash than leaning way over
the seatback.

The car happily stays in utility mode, running the fan to either tbe leftmost dash vent or maybe the defrost,
with neither heat or AC enabled. Although in high summer, the car seems to automatically add a little
compressor use, possibly to keep measured humidity down. It seems to have vanishingly little effect
on range by morning.

_H*
 
BTW, thanks for the pointer to E12. After a bit of digging last night, I finally know what external-star [or torx,
but called that less often] fasteners / sockets are, never knew before, and one Amazon entry included this:

"External star sockets are a female 6-lobe geometry designed for a high-torque fit that
resists slipping. These sockets are required for E-Star fasteners, which are commonly found
on seat mounts, brake system components and steering columns.*

I tried to keep my business local and get a set of the sockets nearby, and dem lil buggers are hard to find!
I finally caved and ordered online. Why do seat rails need anything special to hold them in the car?

_H*
 
As for the seat heater module and airbag connections, it sounds like there are some additional factors to consider when removing the passenger seat. This is definitely something you'll want to research thoroughly and perhaps consult with a professional to ensure that everything is done safely and correctly.
 
FionaSmith said:
As for the seat heater module and airbag connections, it sounds like there are some additional factors to consider when removing the passenger seat. This is definitely something you'll want to research thoroughly and perhaps consult with a professional to ensure that everything is done safely and correctly.
Click to expand...
The oddball splined-head bolts you're referring to are likely a type of security fastener designed to prevent tampering or unauthorized removal. In order to remove them safely and effectively, you'll need to find the right tool for the job. One option is to search for a specialized tool specifically designed for this type of fastener. You might be able to find what you need at a local hardware store or online retailer scrooz.com.au . Alternatively, a generic six-point socket may work if it fits snugly and securely onto the bolt head. However, I would caution against using an ill-fitting tool, as this could result in damaged bolts or injury.
 
Six point socket won't work, I tried and have the skinned knuckles to prove it. Spend ten bucks and get the proper E12 socket. I found one easily enough at my local auto parts place (Lordco).
 
Well, today I finally took my shiny new E12 in hand and tackled shotgun-seat removal. Easy-peasey, for
the most part. The little pop-in clips that hold the harnesses agains various brackets are fussy to pop
out without breaking the ears, but that's minor. I cut most of the ears off anyways and added velcro
cable ties, as I now consider this a modifiable setup.

50seatout_p.webp

All we need to restore the functionality I'll need in winter is the seat-warmer controller, which does both
front seats. With none of this plugged back in, the car booted absolutely without a whimper -- no warnings,
not even about an airbag disconnected. Doesn't care. Plug the harnesses back together, and the seat
heaters work again. So this can just lay there under whatever becomes the updated bed platform or
storage solution. The existing mini-platform still fits in fine, it had no dependence on the front seat.

And the roadtrip storage space opened up is *cavernous* by comparison. I just wish the 60/40 rear
seat split was the other way round.

_H*
 
Good news for those of us who hate spending money on a place to be unconscious. ie Hotel rooms.

My E-Kona arrives this week. :) I'll be looking very hard at removing the front pax seat.

FWIW, Sprinters are chock full of Torx and E-Torx fasteners. I speculate that they facilitate factory assembly.

upload_2023-6-27_7-35-53.webp
"I'd rather wake up in wilderness than in any hotel room on earth."
Paul Newman
 
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