EV Range

about 58 miles roundtrip. No heater & few highway miles. Use Regen paddles religiously to slow down. Now that it is warmer here, hope to get more.
 
That last point is quickly becoming my biggest irritant with the Clarity (even more so than XMRadio problems) - they need to issue a software update so the regen paddles work the same in EV as Sport Mode. I am sick and tired of pumping the paddles at every stop (at first I thought this was a waste of time, but as temps have soared into the 90's here it often creates a 0.3 mile jump in battery capacity). What really worse is i find myself hitting the left paddle on my wife's Odyssey which actually DOWNSHIFTS the transmission in the standard 6cyl engine...nuts...
 
dstrauss said:
That last point is quickly becoming my biggest irritant with the Clarity (even more so than XMRadio problems) - they need to issue a software update so the regen paddles work the same in EV as Sport Mode. I am sick and tired of pumping the paddles at every stop (at first I thought this was a waste of time, but as temps have soared into the 90's here it often creates a 0.3 mile jump in battery capacity). What really worse is i find myself hitting the left paddle on my wife's Odyssey which actually DOWNSHIFTS the transmission in the standard 6cyl engine...nuts...
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Just drive in Sport mode! It is much more enjoyable and if you don't floor it you get the same milage on the battery
 
dstrauss said:
pumping the paddles at every stop
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Does anyone have data on if the regen paddles produces any more regeneration vs normal braking. I'm not convinced the paddles regenerate any more than just normal braking. I define normal braking as coming to a gradual stop without experiencing hard braking.
 
@Wall-e It's difficult to gauge, as the Honda engineers did a really good job in modulating the regen and friction braking such that I can't tell how much braking is done by one vs the other. You can look at the power gauge and try to see if using the brake pedal only produces a similar green regen strength as using the paddles only (for the same braking force).

For me, using the paddles is more an assurance that only regen braking is taking place, and then I use the brake pedal only towards the end to come to a complete stop.
 
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I'm also not convinced that the paddles are any better than gentle braking. Whenever I tap the paddles to max, the power gauge goes into "charge" but then if I gently apply the brakes the gauge goes even farther into the charge zone.

I do agree with Kendalf in that I use the paddles as an assurance that the friction brakes aren't being used.
 
I believe there is only one regen system, accessed from either the paddles or the brake pedal. I also believe the paddles are calibrated so they will not engage the physical brakes. So if you are light on the brake pedal you will slow to a stop without engaging the brakes. In general it is more efficient to coast to a stop so the regen can work as long as possible. One thing for sure is if the car is stopped there is no regen. To get the most regen approach stops slowly. As soon as you take your foot off the accelerator and the car begins to slow there is regen going on.
 
Rich Shaffer said:
View attachment 1054
Lets keep this challenge alive!
Bought this car on New Years Day. Still have 1/2 tank of gas.
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Well, I was going to post a pix of 65.9, but no need to now. The king is dead, long live the kings! (Rich and AGarg).
At least now I can run the A/C all I want since I’m no longer trying to beat anybody.
How about another contest? Total miles vs gal of gas used.
1,800/2 gal for me so far.
 
In the olden days, people had to install a home-brewed, warranty-invalidating mIMA box in their 1st gen Insights to provide the ability to select the level of regen braking. Today, Honda would probably tell you to be happy you only have to pull the left paddle 3 times to get to the 4th level of regen.

I, too, would prefer the Deceleration Paddle Selection stay in effect in ECON and NORMAL Modes, as it does in SPORT Mode. I'd gladly accept having to re-paddle when I start the car. I'm happy ECON Mode stays in effect when you re-start (unlike SPORT Mode).
 
Good to know, I haven't seen a reason to turn the heat on high though, auto works well, usually set to around 66 to 70, worked fine at 10 F. Is there a reason to set the heat to hi? Makes me wonder if engine starting in the cold might be related to heater power required, might experiment next season.
 
Good way to force the ICE to stay running without constantly forcing it past the the HV Electric power delivery bar. Also FYI while this is occurring at least at idle it does charge the pack. I went from 33 to 35.2 EV range.
 
LegoZ said:
I have results for running out of fuel. In hv mode you lose power but no messages for about a minute then you get a message on screen and request to pull over when safe. I stopped and restarted the car in Econ/ev and drove to a gas station.
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Just curious. Why would you intentionally run out of fuel?
 
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