Dash Cam install.
- Thread starter J.Dubs
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Carsten Haase
Well-Known Member
On previously cars I've used a "fuse tap" on the fuse for the 12V outlet.
According to this thread it's fuse 65.
You can find your fuse diagram here with your VIN
https://www.mini.com/en_MS/home/fusecard.html
According to this thread it's fuse 65.
You can find your fuse diagram here with your VIN
https://www.mini.com/en_MS/home/fusecard.html
quietlyspinach
Active Member
I also used empty slot F53 for the "AC" line, which is switched on and off with the car. I tried using F75 which is the open slot on the far right for my "Battery" line, because my camera has parking mode. Unfortunately that gets turned off after 10 minutes or so.
I haven't tried re-locating that to another slot; another person on the Electric MINI Facebook group looks like he tried using empty slot F48 for his parking mode and it apparently works. I'm guessing anything in that column F43-F48 should work for always on. He also looks like he used F49 for his "AC" mode.
I haven't tried re-locating that to another slot; another person on the Electric MINI Facebook group looks like he tried using empty slot F48 for his parking mode and it apparently works. I'm guessing anything in that column F43-F48 should work for always on. He also looks like he used F49 for his "AC" mode.
quietlyspinach
Active Member
I also find it interesting that in your photo, you have a green 30 fuse in your slot F43 while mine is blank. What trim level did you get? I have a 2022 Iconic.
J.Dubs
Member
quietlyspinach
Active Member
Interesting! I'm guessing the reason mine is missing is because I asked for the moonroof to be deleted. That's the only powered thing I think that I changed from the standard configuration.
J.Dubs
Member
I do have one of those, I didn't have an option.
polyphonic
Well-Known Member
Thanks all for your contributions! One thing that has me wary of “burying” the wires is breaking panels.
Would someone be able to walk me through the process of removing trim panels and fastening the wire so it is out of view?
Would someone be able to walk me through the process of removing trim panels and fastening the wire so it is out of view?
Carsten Haase
Well-Known Member
Did you have to remove the windshield header trim piece or were you able to just tuck the wire between it and the windshield?
J.Dubs
Member
I just tuck it in there
Carsten Haase
Well-Known Member
I'm starting my install but the fuse taps I have aren't long enough to fully seat. They make contact but are only about half inserted.
Is yours the same way or did you find a longer fuse tap that doesn't bottom out on the plastic walls on either side of the fuse?
J.Dubs
Member
I used these
4 Types 12V Add-a-Circuit Adapter... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085MGP931?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Carsten Haase
Well-Known Member
Finished the front dashcam install! Still planning on doing the rear but am going to see how the Garmin dashcam mini does before ordering a second.
Step 1: Trim Removal
This is the only piece necessary to remove and is super easy. It's held on by 3 metal clips and a tab in a hole at the bottom edge. Just pull it away from the dash, then slide it upwards a bit to get the tab out of the hole at the bottom.
Tab on the right. There's also a little edge that tucks behind the trim piece below it.
Step 2: Running the Wire
The "hardest" part is fishing the wire from next to the glovebox through the gap between the window and A-pillar trim. I used a piece of solid wire to go from the window to next to the glovebox then taped the power cable to it to pull back through. There's plenty of space between the dash/A-pillar trim and the windshield.
The wire can then tuck between the windshield and the rest of the trim super easily
Step 3: Power Source
I used fuse F53 just like everyone else has.
The fuse tap didn't seem to go in all the way so I chopped it up, removing the unnecessary lower fuse slot. I used the scraps I chopped off with a plastic welder (basically a funky shaped soldering iron) to close off the holes. Probably not necessary but only took a couple of minutes.
For the rear camera I'm planning to tap off the existing circuit for the 12V outlet. It'll probably require a bit more trim removal but hopefully will be close to as easy as the front was!
Step 1: Trim Removal
This is the only piece necessary to remove and is super easy. It's held on by 3 metal clips and a tab in a hole at the bottom edge. Just pull it away from the dash, then slide it upwards a bit to get the tab out of the hole at the bottom.
Tab on the right. There's also a little edge that tucks behind the trim piece below it.
Step 2: Running the Wire
The "hardest" part is fishing the wire from next to the glovebox through the gap between the window and A-pillar trim. I used a piece of solid wire to go from the window to next to the glovebox then taped the power cable to it to pull back through. There's plenty of space between the dash/A-pillar trim and the windshield.
The wire can then tuck between the windshield and the rest of the trim super easily
Step 3: Power Source
I used fuse F53 just like everyone else has.
The fuse tap didn't seem to go in all the way so I chopped it up, removing the unnecessary lower fuse slot. I used the scraps I chopped off with a plastic welder (basically a funky shaped soldering iron) to close off the holes. Probably not necessary but only took a couple of minutes.
For the rear camera I'm planning to tap off the existing circuit for the 12V outlet. It'll probably require a bit more trim removal but hopefully will be close to as easy as the front was!
polyphonic
Well-Known Member
I found a great video on removing trim pieces in the F56:
That's the scariest video I've ever watched!
fasttr
Member
Does anyone know if you can tap into wires in behind the rear view mirror? I do that on my current BMWs.
Carsten Haase
Well-Known Member
I'm sure there are wires up there that have 12V power but it's just so easy to run from the fuse box it would likely be more work to tap off the existing wiring...
fasttr
Member
Well you can buy these “taps” with thin probe ends that you just insert alongside OEM wires in an existing connector. Took less than 5 minutes on both my BMWs and no need to snake wires around. If anyone has a wiring diagram that shows switched power behind the mirror I’d appreciate it.