Project "butthurt"

  • Thread starter Thread starter hobbit
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hobbit said:
If I went for a 2021 SEL [my first idea, maybe even same color scheme] there would be very few
differences, right? Like my neighbors would probably not even realize anything was different, just
"the car" came back looking fixed. 2022 probably wouldn't be different either.

I'd have to redo my hacks, but at least I've got the short list of those and the wiring might even
be the same so I wouldn't have to grind through hyundaitechinfo.

[Edit: the insurance co called, and are offering a semi insulting "market value" of 27k or so in
settlement. I do *not* have a "new replacement" rider, so I may be stuck with that. Any magic
words that make adjusters re-think such things? NADA placed it more like $33k.]

_H*
Click to expand...
Well the interesting thing here is, you could say "Hyundai is buying back all 2019 Kona's in the US because of the battery issue. They are paying in full what I paid less a deduction for mileage. If your insured hadn't hit me I was going to receive $40,000 for this car in a few weeks (or, whatever you paid, plus tax, minus mileage) so you might want to look into that some more so we can work this out without any attorneys involved".

I mean on the one hand it's a stretch, on the other hand... it's entirely true. Hyundai was going to pay you a lot more than $27k for this car before she hit you.

one more note: typically the insurance company owes you what the car was worth prior to the collision. The question is , of course, what was the car worth? Well if you were selling it private party maybe it was worth $27k or $30k. But since Hyundai was buying them all back, it was kind of also worth (whatever that is, $40k, etc). You may want to discuss with an attorney either way here, it's tricky but like I said, it's true. Fact is you were going to be paid a lot more than $27k for that car and now you aren't b/c their insured totaled it. You shouldn't be out $10,000 or more due to her negligence. If you want to get serious about this, contact Hyundai about the buy back, go through the process, and see what they offer you and then you have written proof and then the insurance company is on the spot big time. The caveat here is you must have had P29 applied already by the dealer, if you did, you can get the offer from Hyundai without anything else being done or anyone seeing the car. Don't tell them it's wrecked, etc., that's not the point, the point is what would they have given you for it to buy it back before she hit you. If it were me I'd totally want to go this route or at least try to.
 
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Okay, this is getting even richer. Liberty Mutual, the outfit with those horrible Youtube ads, sent a letter
denying "my claim" against the at-fault person and trying to misinterpret the police report to reverse
the order of collisions, trying to say that the middle Jeep hit me first and then Bimbo hit the group
due to a sudden stop or something. That is completely non-factual, she plowed into us at a good clip
and set off the whole thing. I'll bet this is something LM tries to pull by default, find some way to weasel
out of paying a claim, professional sleazebags.

My dashcam files support the truth, where it's clear that my car doesn't move until the second bang, and
in another file we hear "Chelsee" pretty clearly saying "I'm sorry, this is all my fault". LM is insisting that
I provide those, so I linked to them in an email to their adjuster saying their "analysis" of the crash report is
nothing but insulting and that they owe me and everyone else concerned a profound apology not to mention
a bunch of money.

I never even filed this, my insurance company apparently did. Why I'm even getting their reply is a bit
mysterious, but it's good that I know what they're trying to pull.

_H*
 
That’s not surprising. They also charge WAY too much for a premium. As a MA resident, I avoid any insurance company that operates through the classic agent network in MA.

Did you end up sending them those recordings?

hobbit said:
Okay, this is getting even richer. Liberty Mutual, the outfit with those horrible Youtube ads, sent a letter
denying "my claim" against the at-fault person and trying to misinterpret the police report to reverse
the order of collisions, trying to say that the middle Jeep hit me first and then Bimbo hit the group
due to a sudden stop or something. That is completely non-factual, she plowed into us at a good clip
and set off the whole thing. I'll bet this is something LM tries to pull by default, find some way to weasel
out of paying a claim, professional sleazebags.

My dashcam files support the truth, where it's clear that my car doesn't move until the second bang, and
in another file we hear "Chelsee" pretty clearly saying "I'm sorry, this is all my fault". LM is insisting that
I provide those, so I linked to them in an email to their adjuster saying their "analysis" of the crash report is
nothing but insulting and that they owe me and everyone else concerned a profound apology not to mention
a bunch of money.

I never even filed this, my insurance company apparently did. Why I'm even getting their reply is a bit
mysterious, but it's good that I know what they're trying to pull.

_H*
Click to expand...
 
hobbit said:
Okay, this is getting even richer. Liberty Mutual, the outfit with those horrible Youtube ads, sent a letter
denying "my claim" against the at-fault person and trying to misinterpret the police report to reverse
the order of collisions, trying to say that the middle Jeep hit me first and then Bimbo hit the group
due to a sudden stop or something. That is completely non-factual, she plowed into us at a good clip
and set off the whole thing. I'll bet this is something LM tries to pull by default, find some way to weasel
out of paying a claim, professional sleazebags.

My dashcam files support the truth, where it's clear that my car doesn't move until the second bang, and
in another file we hear "Chelsee" pretty clearly saying "I'm sorry, this is all my fault". LM is insisting that
I provide those, so I linked to them in an email to their adjuster saying their "analysis" of the crash report is
nothing but insulting and that they owe me and everyone else concerned a profound apology not to mention
a bunch of money.

I never even filed this, my insurance company apparently did. Why I'm even getting their reply is a bit
mysterious, but it's good that I know what they're trying to pull.

_H*
Click to expand...
See this would just motivate me to get the buyback offer from Hyundai and then tell LM here’s what I was going to be paid for the car before your insured wrecked it, that’s what you owe me, pay up or the next letter will be from my attorney.

As someone who was in the insurance business for many years it was my experience that certain companies would deny all claims and just fight even to weasel out of 20% of the damage. They took that as a win and just playing the game.
 
I think I would have gotten the other drivers info, I trust no one

Totalling cars: Insurance companies love it

Badly damaged car that racks up 70 percent damage, if it is brand new and not your fault, you can sometimes get diminished value added, rental car and hidden damage can result in payouts over what was planned, They pay 30k or more out of pocket

Total the same car and they pay you 40k[or whatever they can chisel you down to]
They then sell that car at auction for 18k.
They are out of pocket 22k, or less. No brainer
Guy who buys it bangs out the panel frame pulls it and in a week with a grand in materials sells it for 28k
 
Something important you left out is the vehicle would have a salvage title at that point, which greatly diminishes the value. To me I would never buy a salvage title vehicle - but I would considering keeping my own vehicle if the insurance company totaled it, because I know the car and I know exactly what kind of impact it received and what the damage was. You just have to run all the numbers and figure out whether you think you can fix it for less than they give you. What they pay you will be value before the accident minus salvage value of the wrecked vehicle. Example: if the vehicle was worth $20,000 and is now only worth $500 wrecked, you can either take $20,000 or keep the vehicle and still get $19,500. But of course you assume all responsibility at that point and no matter what happens the insurance company will not pay one more penny after that. So you better be sure you can and want to fix the car for the amount they're going to pay you.

Very very very few wrecked vehicles will sell at auction for $18,000, just fyi. More like $300-$2000. Go to copart.com and look for yourself if you don't believe me. Also, what the insurance company can get for the vehicle is not part of the equation when determining whether to total a vehicle or not. That isn't a part of the calculation and there are two reasons for this:

  • First, the most obvious reason is it is the owner's car, not the insurance company's car. Even if the car is "totaled" the owner of the vehicle always decides whether they want to keep the car or not, the insurance company cannot take the car unless the owner doesn't want the salvage vehicle. Obviously, if the owner keeps the car, what you can get at auction is only an estimate. You total someone's $25,000 car and then try to tell them you're going to deduct $18,000 for salvage value if they want to keep it, you better have a very good explanation or else there's going to be a lawsuit involved. I was an insurance adjuster for many years for 3 different companies, I never had any car that had a salvage value over $10,000 and maybe had 2 over $5000. Most were worth $300 - $1000.
  • Second, the insurance company only cares about one thing: limiting their exposure. Mathematically they have determined that when the repairs reach 70 or 75% (different companies use slightly different numbers) of the pre-accident value, they are better off just totaling the car at that point rather than risk the repair bill going from, say, $20,000, to say, $28,000, and also taking 45-60 days to fix which means they are paying for a rental car for the owner of the vehicle while it is being repaired. In other words, the insurance company in no way shape or form thinks "let's see if I can make some money here". That is just bunk. All they want to do is figure out "is it likely I'll we'll pay less if we just total the car now, or if we fix it". To suggest otherwise is simply not true. I worked in the business for several different insurance companies including one that was terrible and unethical in my opinion - even that company did not think or operate this way. Even that company handled totals the way I described above: is it cheaper to total it than to fix it? A company NEVER wants to get into a repair and end up paying $25,000 to repair a vehicle (or $22,000 for a repair and $3000 for a rental) when the vehicle was only worth $23,000 before the accident.
 
ENirogus said:
I think I would have gotten the other drivers info, I trust no one

Totalling cars: Insurance companies love it

Badly damaged car that racks up 70 percent damage, if it is brand new and not your fault, you can sometimes get diminished value added, rental car and hidden damage can result in payouts over what was planned, They pay 30k or more out of pocket

Total the same car and they pay you 40k[or whatever they can chisel you down to]
They then sell that car at auction for 18k.
They are out of pocket 22k, or less. No brainer
Guy who buys it bangs out the panel frame pulls it and in a week with a grand in materials sells it for 28k
Click to expand...
Kinda true, but you oversimplifying the rebuilding process a tad. I imagine it varies from state to state but in my province you are required to rebuild a vehicle to OEM and best national insurance/autobody practice standards. Rebuilt salvage vehicles need body integrity and mechanical inspections. Panels are predominantly replaced( not cost effective to "bang" them out), if a frame member is bent or kinked they need to be cut and replaced to OEM spec , damaged high strength steel needs to be cut and replaced, frame pulling is mostly utilized to get the damaged parts into approximation before they get cut out. The profit margins are smaller than you would imagine. Plus salvaged titled vehicles are more difficult to sell, typically banks won't provide loans on them so it has to be a cash buyer.
 
Not all states have salvage titles or strict methods of inspection
Yes a salvage vehicle is worth less, but this happens every day.
GO check out copart.com and look at what vehicles sell for
 
A Kona that's perfectly good from the rear quarters forward probably has a lot more salvage/parts
value than a couple of thousand, even with the bum battery. With some of the above and what the
body shop said about the high-tensile inner panels too, it's not worth mucking around with salvage,
I'd just wind up with a rusty hulk in the backyard.

I have all of the at-fault party's info, I have the police report. I also see its poorly-worded "crash
narrative" sentence that Fibberty Bullsh1tual is trying to key on to rewrite history. They have zero
hope of getting away with it, as my insurance company's subrogation department is already on
it bigtime and the middle Jeep's insurance is ganging up on them too. In that case there's minor
bodily injury involved. Everything is arrayed against Bimbo-blonde and her sketchy choice of carrier.

Meanwhile, I contested my outfit's initial settlement and pointed out that you can't just walk onto
a lot and buy a preowned 2019 because they're under recall and in stop-sale state, and the only
hope of evaluating "the actual cost of purchase of an available auto of like kind and quality"
[their words!] is to look at a later model year. They "sent it back" and magically came up with about
$6000 more, how about that. Why did they waste my time with the lowball nonsense in the first
place? By assigning more "weight" to the NADA market valuation rather than some unsaleable
"comparables" from two states away, they arrived at something more reasonable. Now I can feel
better about mailing them the title and gittin' 'er done.

I also have a line on another Galactic Gray SEL with a white top, but 2021, at a dealer not too far
away. I think that's my right answer, esp. because I already have all this kit specifically designed
to go with a Kona. The neighbors are gonna think it's the original car, and my EV webpages will all
still apply to something I own. I'll still be out a few K because of somebody else's stupidity, but
I can sort of consider it "lease" on the first one and better peace of mind going forward.

_H*
 
ENirogus said:
Not all states have salvage titles or strict methods of inspection
Yes a salvage vehicle is worth less, but this happens every day.
GO check out copart.com and look at what vehicles sell for
Click to expand...
Oh, I am very familiar what they sell for, I have rebuilt more than a few in my time :)
 
I arrived back home with the new Kona a little after noon, and half an hour later the
dash looked like this:

38newdashrip.webp

It shouldn't take too long to get everything back to the way I had it, with some possible
improvements along the way. The car feels exactly the same as the 2019, and the wiring
I need to target looks the same but obviously some testing is needed.

The menu item to disable the "aux battery saver" is missing, but we knew that would be
true in later firmware revs, That's maybe the one thing I regret losing. More importantly,
I have a new and supposedly safer pack, that happened to come with a car attached.

There were a couple of crated-up new packs at the dealer service, btw. I recognized the
boxes from the pix someone else posted. The service folks said they were slated to
replace packs that had "gone bad", presumably from failed update attempts? But nothing
to do with the recall yet.

_H*
 
hobbit said:
I arrived back home with the new Kona a little after noon, and half an hour later the
dash looked like this:

View attachment 12269

It shouldn't take too long to get everything back to the way I had it, with some possible
improvements along the way. The car feels exactly the same as the 2019, and the wiring
I need to target looks the same but obviously some testing is needed.

The menu item to disable the "aux battery saver" is missing, but we knew that would be
true in later firmware revs, That's maybe the one thing I regret losing. More importantly,
I have a new and supposedly safer pack, that happened to come with a car attached.

There were a couple of crated-up new packs at the dealer service, btw. I recognized the
boxes from the pix someone else posted. The service folks said they were slated to
replace packs that had "gone bad", presumably from failed update attempts? But nothing
to do with the recall yet.

_H*
Click to expand...
I'd say get a hobby but it appears you have one! :)
 
hobbit said:
I arrived back home with the new Kona a little after noon, and half an hour later the
dash looked like this:

View attachment 12269

It shouldn't take too long to get everything back to the way I had it, with some possible
improvements along the way. The car feels exactly the same as the 2019, and the wiring
I need to target looks the same but obviously some testing is needed.

The menu item to disable the "aux battery saver" is missing, but we knew that would be
true in later firmware revs, That's maybe the one thing I regret losing. More importantly,
I have a new and supposedly safer pack, that happened to come with a car attached.

There were a couple of crated-up new packs at the dealer service, btw. I recognized the
boxes from the pix someone else posted. The service folks said they were slated to
replace packs that had "gone bad", presumably from failed update attempts? But nothing
to do with the recall yet.

_H*
Click to expand...
Didn't anybody tell you, to change the cabin air filter, all you have to do is reach behind the glovebox:D
Sorry, had to throw that out there. Looks like your hands are full for the moment, but when you have time: please supply what model year (doorframe manufacture date) and battery label info (pack manufacture date, part# and BMS ROM ID). Also if any changes noted in wiring harness etc. Curious if the motor part# is different than the original E700)...Thanks
 
Door placard says it was manufactured in October 2020. Here's the battery label:

108newpack_s.webp

I wiggled the borescope in for a look at the motor label: generic E700. Are any new ones
emerging with 701s? Do we know what's different about them yet?

Cell modem is gone, semipermanent GPS mount attached to the pop-out filler where a center
speaker isn't. A different style of Park-button guard is in -- that is important to me because it's
part of how I locate my shifting hand position without looking. I've confirmed a couple of things
about the wiring; the DRL outputs at a minimum seem to have moved, so it's probably time for
another go-round at Techinfo if I can't find them some other way. Plenty more left to do, but
it's very sweaty work this week.

_H*
 
Oop, I lied about the DRLs. They're exactly the same as in the '19, I was looking at the wrong end of
the connector. In fact, all the wiring I needed to access for the yuppie button is unchanged, which
is one reason it's already roughed in and working, I just need to dress it and put stuff back together.
By having to redo various things I'm making various improvements -- the Button is mounted much
more sensibly, the GPS install is a lot cleaner, and I worked out a much better arrangement for the
spare wheel, jack, tools etc in the boot. At some point I'll actually go drive somewhere...

_H*
 
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