Wiring Diagram, in particular for the engine bay fuse box

Hi All,

I'm looking for a wiring diagram for the 2021 Kona EV, 150kw motor, 64kwh battery.

I have purchased a salvage Kona EV and am trying to reconstruct the engine bay fuse box which was crushed quite badly. In order to patch it back up (or rebuild it using a generic fuse box to a serviceable condition) I need to know the wiring colours used for each item/circuit/fuse within this fuse box. Many of the wires on the underside of the fusebox have been pulled out from their correct locations in this box so it is impossible to know which wire colours are required for each corresponding fuse/circuit. A wiring diagram that shows the wiring colour codes going into this box and what each is for would be great.

I have been scouring the internet looking for something applicable and can't really seem to find one. There seems to be some pictures of at least the topside of this fusebox but they seem to be for the petrol versions of the vehicle.

I spent $40 and bought the "Service Manual" from Easy Manuals UK but that is complete garbage. Don't waste your money. There is no wiring diagram (even though the site says there is one, before you purchase) and some of the diagrams for some of the individual systems that are included are unreadable (too low resolution). To boot, the fuse box info included is for the petrol versions only. Anyway, just don't waste your money at Easy Manuals UK.

I looked in the items in the Tech Index sticky but that doesn't seem to have provided any fruit.

I notice another post in this forum by electriceddy mentioning how good the Auto Repair Source is. Unfortunately I am not in Canada (I'm in Australia) however I still tried to register for a library card to access that. Current status is that it is 'in review 'by library staff. I just made up some address in Winnipeg. Let's see if that works in the coming days.

Anyways, if anyone has a snapshot of the wiring diagram and colour codes of wiring going into the engine bay fusebox and which fuse/circuit they're for, I'd love to see it.

Thanks,
Matt

 

Electriceddy,

Thank you very much for your response and for this snapshot of what I can expect to find.

Yes, finger's crossed the library gives me the access I need. Failing this, my brother-in-law lives in Manitoba so I can probably use his details to register.

Check out how my fuse box is looking.....



Basically it is everything from about the Multifuse 1 and south that has been destroyed beyond use. The wiring underneath is relatively useable, albeit yanked out from their corresponding homes. The inset fuse subpanel north of the multifuse are all fine (and surprisingly none of the fuses in that section are blown). The relays had their tops clipped off but the corresponding terminals that are built into the fuse box in which these relays sit are all in tact so it is just a case of replacing the relays (I've already purchase a ten pack of the brown and 5 pack of the black relays so I can replace them all).

So just this snapshot you have provided already solves a large portion of what I am looking for around the multifuse area. I would say I will only need perhaps one or two more pages of diagram to be able to do the repairs I need. Of course, as you said though, it would be pertinent to try and zero them out to wherever they are going in the other systems of the car to ensure I do have everything correct before applying power, so having full access to the document is key.

I have purchased a generic set of fuses and holders so I can patch these in where needed to replicate the function of the multifuses around this damaged area. Once that is done the other jobs are:
- Replace coolant tank (Crushed/broken. New units are prohibitively expensive from Hyundai, I am just going to use a generic aluminium one with some weld-in barbs of the right size).
- Replace radiator, fan pack and the condenser for the AC. I actually have a Polestar 2 that I also got at salvage last week and that has no frontal damage of this pack, so I am likely just going to use the radiator/fans/condenser combo from that (Polestar is definitely a "piece it out" job. I mainly got that for the battery pack for my solar system).
- Replace coolant.
- Replace 12v battery (Casing was damaged, leaked acid).
- Put some 3.3 ohm resistors in the connections for the 4 seat belt pretensioners and the steering wheel and passenger dash airbags that went off. (Curtains and seat mounted airbags did not fire).

.... and then hopefully that should be it. I am hoping at that stage I will be able to power up with 12 volts, plug in obdii tool and see what codes I can clear and see if I can get the wheels turning.

The one element I don't know of just yet is whether or not the vehicle uses a pyro fuse in the high voltage battery pack whenever safety system items like seatbelt pretensioners or airbags go off. This is another dimension that I am hopefully going to discover in the full wiring diagrams of the vehicle. My salvage Polestar and the Tesla's seem to use a pyro fuse, however finding anything related to Hyundai/Kia's using a pyro fuse in their packs seems hard to find (and if it wasn't obvious, this is my first foray into Hyundai Kia EV's). I think I can see where they use a large typical cylindrical 450 volt 600 amp fuse in the assembly with the high voltage disconnect plug in the top/centre of the HV battery pack, however that just looks like a boring, standard old fuse to me, it doesn't look like it has any connections to blow the fuse in a pyro fuse kind of way in the event of any of the airbags or pretensioners firing.

Anyway, I'll get to the HV battery when I need to. For now I just need to get this fuse box wired and the coolant sorted to be confident that I have at least patched things to a useable level in the engine bay.

Oh and by the way, I am not doing this for the purpose of getting the Kona back on the road in its usual form. I am doing this to ensure I get the vehicle working as much as possible as a "normal" vehicle and then will be stripping the entire thing of the drive train, harness and whatever else I feel like to transplant into a 1976 type 1 VW beetle project. I will try and use as much of the interior as I can such as the instrument cluster, PRNDL selector, AC controls, multimedia screen and of course those lovely white leather power seats with cooling and heating. Probably even the steering wheel too. For this reason, I don't mind doing a few work-arounds on things like the airbags and pretensioners as they are not going to be in use in the final vehicle anyways. Probably same with features like radar cruise control, parking sensors etc. Maybe I can make those things work somehow, but they wont be the major focus. Also the same story on the radiator/condenser fan pack. The solution I need to do right now for getting the vehicle running/working in its majority does not need to be cosmetically pleasing or in line with what the original vehicle looks like or fit exactly into place with exact part numbers or dimensions because in the end a lot of that is going to have to be custom to fit into the Beetle project anyway.

Cheers,
Matt

 

ENirogus,
Thank you for this suggestion.
Let's keep fingers crossed the library access to Auto Repair Source comes through. If not, I will have to do this screen recording method with Hyundaitechinfo.

 

electriceddy,

Thank you very much for your diagram you posted of the wiring related to Multifuse 1 and 2. This has helped me greatly. I have already tracked down those wires and labelled them with the correct fuse size ready and waiting for my makeshift fuse solution that I will use in the next week or two. Half of my problem is already solved thanks to you!

The remaining part to be done are the other items in the south end of the fuse box (see below marked in blue. Please ignore the nearby orange marking, that is a marking from this image which I borrowed from another forum...)



These items are relating to the 150 amp multifuse that I assume goes to the DC charging system, an 80 amp fuse that goes to the power steering system, around 7 or 8 fuses in the 10 to 40 amp range for various things and one or two relays.

electriceddy, If you were kind enough to post a snapshot like you did for the Multifuse 1 and 2 that would help me greatly.

I ask because the library adventure to get access to Auto Repair Source has not worked out as planned. I did not get any response from the library I applied to for access online. I then got my brother in law to go join the Winnipeg library. I used his card number and started to get somewhere with EBSCO however I came up with nothing. Either EBSCO Host or EBSCO Connect would let me in but every time I searched on how to actually access Auto Repair Source it simply only gave me tutorial videos and such on how to use it. It didn't actually give me any links etc on actually accessing and using the resource itself. The only thing I can assume here is that city of Winnipeg Library doesn't subscribe to Auto Repair Source on EBSCO. Either that or I am an idiot and I just can't for the life of me work out where to find some kind of link or button to actually open the Auto Repair Source database itself.

Anyways, failing you nice folks here helping me out with a snapshot or two of what I need I think the only other avenue is to try the Hyundaitechinfo with the screen recorder idea suggested by ENirogus. Would certainly be nice not to have to pay for it though.

Thanks,
Matt

 

Yes agreed. That is the route I eventually had to take. I never did get any win from the Canadian libraries for Auto Repair Source.

Unfortunately for us here in Australia to access this service and pay for just one day of access you need to be a member of aasra to begin with. That costs $99 AUD for one year. Anyhow, I paid the annual membership plus the one day access fee and got what I wanted. I took the time to roll through much of what I needed and take snapshots using printscreen.

Interestingly, the diagrams were just a little different to the one page snapshot electriceddy shared earlier in this thread. I guess that is potentially the difference between models sold in our different parts of the world. So for us here in Australia these were the important pages that got me through what I needed...






For the Easy Manuals UK issue they eventually refunded my purchase after indicating the shortcomings in the manual.

 

I took the route of getting through aasra here in Australia for similar pricing.

I'm glad I did in the end, as it seems there are a few minor differences in the diagrams between what electriceddy previously shared and the ones I viewed for the model sold here in Australia. Or maybe it was because mine was the Extended range version, or perhaps some other specification/features differences. In either case I'm glad I spent the coin to get what I need for my specific model here.