Transmission Fluid Change

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Robbiemo

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Anyone have any experience with changing the transmission fluid themselves yet, I just crossed over 45k miles and I'd like to change it soon.

I'm not sure where the drain/fill bolts are (haven't looked yet) or what type of fluid and how much it will take.
 
The Owners Manual says the transmission takes Honda ATF DW-1. Probably be a good idea to read the Owners Manual before attempting DIY work on the car. The manual says the Maintenance Minder will tell you when the transmission fluid needs to be changed with a 3 for the third place in the MM readout. It further says the only reason to change it earlier is regular mountain driving at low speeds. Modern transmissions are usually sealed units that can be a real challenge to DIY fluid change. If no one on here chimes in with help, be sure you get the full information about it someplace before taking that on. The shop manuals for Honda’s are available on-line for a time-based cost. https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.aspx
 
@Sandroad is correct - modern cars have sealed trannys.

I thought the Honda transmission fluid is good for at least 60,000 miles.:)
My BMW says 100,000 miles.:eek:
My former Land Rover was lifetime...o_O

I'd take a closer look at brake fluid changes since it's hygroscopic (water absorber) more frequently than the sealed tranny oil changes...
 
Don’t know what you mean by “sealed” transmission. Do you mean ones with no dipstick? I have yet to find an automatic transmission without fill and drain plugs (and in the case of Toyota Tacomas, an overflow plug which is a real PITA since you have to have it at a specific temp and then it’s supposed to just barely trickle out). DIY can be a little tricky on some trannys and diffs, and sometimes requires pumping in the fluid when there’s no room for a funnel.
Since I’m not towing, going up Pike’s Peak, or racing camels in a dusty desert, I’m happy to wait on the MM.

PS: I’m very happy that we have no power steering fluid to change.
 
@KentuckyKen I had a BMW and the trans, mine was a GE made, has no dipstick and no fill holes from top. They are 'sealed' and the oil last a 'lifetime', which is 100k . You can change the oil in the them just like any other trans and they do have a fill hole at the bottom of the tran.

45k is way too early for a tranny fluid change.
 
KentuckyKen said:
Don’t know what you mean by “sealed” transmission. Do you mean ones with no dipstick? I have yet to find an automatic transmission without fill and drain plugs (and in the case of Toyota Tacomas, an overflow plug which is a real PITA since you have to have it at a specific temp and then it’s supposed to just barely trickle out). DIY can be a little tricky on some trannys and diffs, and sometimes requires pumping in the fluid when there’s no room for a funnel.
Since I’m not towing, going up Pike’s Peak, or racing camels in a dusty desert, I’m happy to wait on the MM.

PS: I’m very happy that we have no power steering fluid to change.
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Yes, no dipstick. And yes, PITA fluid change procedures.
 
Why are cars being biult these days with noway to change easily fluis like tranny?

I did my oil change in June no problem. Chaned tranny fluids in fiesta and spectra fine.

can't figure.
 
Manufacturers are sick and tired of replacing transmissions under warranty when the owner poured motor oil down the transmission fluid dipstick. That's why we are seeing sealed transmissions. Prevents owner's from screwing it up. Put the wrong kind of fluid in there and bam, out goes your tranny.
 
There was a common issue where the automatic trans was overfilled when the level was checked without the engine running, hot, and cycling through the "gear" selections. The high fluid level would cause foaming and the pump then ingested air instead of fluid resulting in warranty losses.
Removing the dipstick was heavy-handed, but solved the overfilling issue.
 
I downloaded the Maintenance Schedule document directly from the Honda owners website (2019 Clarity). Among the list of items to check for the "0" MM code, it lists "Transmission fluid"under "Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids". From the discussion above, it sounds as though it is impossible to check transmission fluid level or condition, so perhaps this is just a sloppy carry-forward from other Honda models? (The list seems tailored for Clarity because it also includes the 3 different coolants that a normal car wouldn't have, etc.)
 
ATF fluid replacement procedure looks fairly easy based on the service manual (and doesn't require any computer intervention):
  1. Remove ATF drain plug, drain old fluid
  2. Reinstall plug with new washer (36 ft-lb; 49 N*m)
  3. Remove filler plug, fill through filling plug hole to the level of the filling plug hole (2.23 US qt; 2.11 L for change... 3.15 L at overhaul). Use ATF DW-1.
  4. Replace filling plug with new washer (32 ft-lb; 44 N*m)
  5. Reset maintenance minder item #3.
For the "checking level" procedure, it says to check it 60 to 90 seconds after turning the engine off... WTF? The fluid replacement is done at ambient, so why would it need to be checked hot? And who can take off the fill plug within 60 seconds of turning off the engine?

The "filler plug" is not the rubber "filler cap" at the top. The plug is on the driver's side of the transmission, a few cm above the level of the drain plug. The ATF replacement procedure doesn't mention the filler cap at all.... Filling a measured quantity through the rubber cap plug is likely OK, but is not what the service procedure says to do...

It might be easiest/cheapest to get the ATF from your local Honda dealership, due to shipping costs related to hazardous materials...

(NB: I've never done this procedure before.)
 
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pigrew said:
WTF? The fluid replacement is done at ambient, so why would it need to be checked hot? And who can take off the fill plug within 60 seconds of turning off the engine?
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This sounds like another example of a procedure that was pasted into the Clarity service manual from a different vehicle and not really tailored to match it well.

Adding fluid through the rubber "filler cap" would seem to be easier than the side plug. Perhaps a compromise would be to remove the side plug, add the fluid through the "filler cap", and verify that some comes out the side rather than completely depending on just a measured amount. This would be safer because the measured amount could be wrong in the rare case that some fluid was lost (or was the wrong level to begin with). What is the purpose of the more convenient "filler cap" if not intended to add fluid?

As for warm vs. cold - I agree that it just doesn't seem practical to check the level while warm without a dipstick as in a more conventional vehicle. Again, perhaps an artifact of a poor job when composing the manual?

Here is a video that shows how to use the side plug to verify the level (this is a Hybrid Accord, but it has the same setup)...
 
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MrFixit said:
This sounds like another example of a procedure that was pasted into the Clarity service manual from a different vehicle and not really tailored to match it well.

Adding fluid through the rubber "filler cap" would seem to be easier than the side plug. Perhaps a compromise would be to remove the side plug, add the fluid through the "filler cap", and verify that some comes out the side rather than completely depending on just a measured amount. This would be safer because the measured amount could be wrong in the rare case that some fluid was lost (or was the wrong level to begin with). What is the purpose of the more convenient "filler cap" if not intended to add fluid?
Click to expand...
I like the idea of having two ways to verify that the right amount of fluid is going in. But I wonder what the correct approach would be if they don't agree. Example if you pour in the measured amount and nothing comes out the side plug, then I guess you keep pouring until it does? Conversely if fluid starts coming out the side plug before you have poured all of the measured amount in then I guess you stop? Either way it seems like the side plug will still be the determiner, and the measurements are just so that you know how much you put in, which is good to know I suppose.

Also it seems the car would need to be level. Without a lift that means putting the car up on both front and rear jack stands, which can be a challenge because it's so difficult to get a floor jack under the front center lift point. I thought about lifting each front wheel one at a time and setting them back down onto some flat pieces of wood, this would raise the front end high enough to be able to get a floor jack under there. Some people just lift one wheel and while it is raised get the floor jack under the car. But that means the car will be at an angle when the floor jack picks up the load, which I would prefer not be the case.
 
Frankwell said:
Also it seems the car would need to be level
Click to expand...
Agreed - level is important, and that does make this a little trickier. I am fortunate and have a lift, so it will be easy !

I don't think the fill needs to be precise. If some fluid comes out of the side hole it should be good.
If you get a little too much in, then let it gush briefly, then put the plug in when it tapers off.
 
I usually measure the amount of oil that came out and fill in the same amount. For engine oil, I would also fill the oil filter before screw it in.
 
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