TPMS failure under warranty?
- Thread starter JKroll
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I have read here that the tire pressure warning system in the Clarity does not actually sense low tire pressure, it senses a difference between how full one tire is as compared to the rest. Also, once you fill your tires to the appropriate levels you need to reset the system yourself through a menu in the car. Try that and see if you still get the warning. Dumb system.
MrFixit
Well-Known Member
I would certainly think that the TPMS system (if it is faulty) would be covered under warranty.
We had our first experience with TPMS this week. The nominal pressures (cold) are 36 PSI front an back. I set them up properly, and ran the TPMS calibration around 2 months ago. This week the TPMS warning came on. The tire pressures were 32, 32, 34, 36. That does seem like reasonable sensitivity. I filled them all to 37 and ran a TPMS calibration and it is fine again. Keep in mind that the TPMS calibration process is not immediate. I think the manual states it can take up to 30 minutes of driving to complete.
It is a little weird that the system doesn't actually measure pressure. It counts wheel revolutions, and assumes if a wheel has more revolutions than the others over a period of time that the pressure must be low. This seems like an OK method, but I would prefer if the system reported which tire(s) were responsible for the warning. If you get a TPMS warning, all you can do is check, and re-establish the correct pressure in all 4 tires. I suppose this enforces good maintenance practice because most people (myself included) do not check tire pressures often enough.
We had our first experience with TPMS this week. The nominal pressures (cold) are 36 PSI front an back. I set them up properly, and ran the TPMS calibration around 2 months ago. This week the TPMS warning came on. The tire pressures were 32, 32, 34, 36. That does seem like reasonable sensitivity. I filled them all to 37 and ran a TPMS calibration and it is fine again. Keep in mind that the TPMS calibration process is not immediate. I think the manual states it can take up to 30 minutes of driving to complete.
It is a little weird that the system doesn't actually measure pressure. It counts wheel revolutions, and assumes if a wheel has more revolutions than the others over a period of time that the pressure must be low. This seems like an OK method, but I would prefer if the system reported which tire(s) were responsible for the warning. If you get a TPMS warning, all you can do is check, and re-establish the correct pressure in all 4 tires. I suppose this enforces good maintenance practice because most people (myself included) do not check tire pressures often enough.
My guess is that the way the TPMS works is required by the use of sealant in place of a spare tire. In the event of a flat, the sealant can damage sensors inside the tire (which used to be common, but some are now located in the cap, which to me is less desirable because caps are easily stolen).
Using the differential in rotation between the tires seems to be a very good way of doing it because no extra sensors of any type are used. The ABS sensors are already counting the encoder pulses and they can just compare these to see over a period of miles if there is a tire that is rolling a bit more RPM than the others. ( I an just guessing that it is the ABS sensors being used here. I could be wrong, but it makes perfect sense to do it this way.)
I agree that it would be useful to know exactly which tire, but frankly I check inflation with some regularity so checking them all in the event of a TPMS warning would be normal for me anyway. Still, I concur that it would be nice if they could tell you which tire was signaling.
Using the differential in rotation between the tires seems to be a very good way of doing it because no extra sensors of any type are used. The ABS sensors are already counting the encoder pulses and they can just compare these to see over a period of miles if there is a tire that is rolling a bit more RPM than the others. ( I an just guessing that it is the ABS sensors being used here. I could be wrong, but it makes perfect sense to do it this way.)
I agree that it would be useful to know exactly which tire, but frankly I check inflation with some regularity so checking them all in the event of a TPMS warning would be normal for me anyway. Still, I concur that it would be nice if they could tell you which tire was signaling.
My tire pressures were 39 in each tire (checked with a reliable gauge) and the TPMS system came on. I did a calibration but was not sure if it even calibrated. After hitting "calibration" it says "calibration started" and then there is another button that says "OK" to get out of the system.. There is nothing that tells you that calibration is complete (as far I can tell)
craze1cars
Well-Known Member
Yes it's under warranty...but it's not really a system that many are accustomed to. It just uses the ABS speed sensors on the wheels and the ECU. If these parts are all working, there's nothing else to replace. Also many don't realize you need to drive the car a pretty notable distance IMMEDIATELY after initializing calibration. The calibration process will finish after about 30 minutes of cumulative driving between 30 – 60 mph. Many people have no idea that the car needs to really go for a good solid drive at multiple speeds to finish the calibration. If you skip this step the light will likely come back on.
So I'd suggest before wasting time complaining to dealer, make sure you're resetting it properly followed by a good long drive, and not just assuming you're done because you went thru the screens and started the calibration process. Read the manual I believe it explains the process pretty fully.
It also will need to be redone after tire rotation...often this is overlooked following service for oil change/tire rotation, and trips the light.
So I'd suggest before wasting time complaining to dealer, make sure you're resetting it properly followed by a good long drive, and not just assuming you're done because you went thru the screens and started the calibration process. Read the manual I believe it explains the process pretty fully.
It also will need to be redone after tire rotation...often this is overlooked following service for oil change/tire rotation, and trips the light.
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Groves Cooke
Active Member
I bought this on Amazon, Have been very happy with it.
Vesafe Universal Solar TPMS, Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System
Vesafe Universal Solar TPMS, Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System
4sallypat
Active Member
I am confused, are the Clarity tires/wheels measuring tire pressure using the TPMS sensor (transmitters) or are they being measured using differential rotation method ?
I remember my first BMW over 20 years ago using the differential method and then all the rest of the newer cars had the TPMS sensors built inside the wheel air stems...
I remember my first BMW over 20 years ago using the differential method and then all the rest of the newer cars had the TPMS sensors built inside the wheel air stems...
MrFixit
Well-Known Member
The TPMS "system" in the Clarity does not use pressure sensors. It uses the differential rotation method. This seems OK to me, but there are a some downsides compared to a pressure sensor approach.
1. A manually initiated calibration is required (and you MUST be sure that all of your tires have the correct pressure when you initiate a calibration). As craze1cars mentioned, should run calibration after tire rotation. Note: this is graphically demonstrated by the MANY instances where Clarity's are delivered by the dealers with the 50 PSI shipping pressures. The TPMS monitors in those vehicles are happy with that, and therefore do not notify drivers that their tire pressures are way off (mine was one of these 50 PSI cases)!
2. Since it is primarily measuring rotational differences, it will detect a problem if only a single tire (or maybe 2) are out of line with the others (ie: if all 4 tires gradually go down to 20 PSI in unison, it may not detect that). Of course it is unlikely that all tires would lose significant pressure equally.
3. The system accuracy depends on the ability of the user to accurately set the pressures and invoke the calibration (if the user's gauge is way off, then the system would not notice the problem).
4. When TPMS flags a problem, it does not inform the driver which tire(s) are bad. All you can do is check them all.
1. A manually initiated calibration is required (and you MUST be sure that all of your tires have the correct pressure when you initiate a calibration). As craze1cars mentioned, should run calibration after tire rotation. Note: this is graphically demonstrated by the MANY instances where Clarity's are delivered by the dealers with the 50 PSI shipping pressures. The TPMS monitors in those vehicles are happy with that, and therefore do not notify drivers that their tire pressures are way off (mine was one of these 50 PSI cases)!
2. Since it is primarily measuring rotational differences, it will detect a problem if only a single tire (or maybe 2) are out of line with the others (ie: if all 4 tires gradually go down to 20 PSI in unison, it may not detect that). Of course it is unlikely that all tires would lose significant pressure equally.
3. The system accuracy depends on the ability of the user to accurately set the pressures and invoke the calibration (if the user's gauge is way off, then the system would not notice the problem).
4. When TPMS flags a problem, it does not inform the driver which tire(s) are bad. All you can do is check them all.
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Groves Cooke
Active Member
I placed a set of these on my car several months ago. I have been happy. Easy to instal and use.
Vesafe Universal Solar TPMS, Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System
Vesafe Universal Solar TPMS, Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System
Still slightly confused by how it works. I got an alert saying the tires were low (they weren't). So I went into the calibration mode and selected "calibrate now". There is no indication whatsoever that it did anything (there's only an "OK" button that you click). The next day I drove to work and did not see any other alert messages. Does that mean that calibration was successful and there is no further issue? Really strange system.
craze1cars
Well-Known Member
You never know. This is Honda. My recommendation is to start the calibration immediately before driving it. Don’t just start the calibration, shut car off, and expect it to continue working the next day. I have eliminated most false alarms my previous Hondas with this method. I only calibrate when I’m prepared to go for a long drive immediately.
The other day when I was deflating my tires from 50, I lost one of the tire caps in the wheel (it just fell in and I couldn't find it). I didn't think anything about it figuring that it was probably a minor item which I would replace later. However, one of the posters here suggested that there is a sensor in that cap and I now think that may be the reason why the system was triggered.
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craze1cars
Well-Known Member
Same valve caps as those found on bicycles..they serve no purpose beyond keeping debris out of the valve.
Fast Eddie B
Well-Known Member
Probably overkill, but I like to replace the cheap plastic valve caps with better o-ring caps.
Valve cores do sometime loosen or fail completely, and an o-ring cap will help hold the air in the tire if that happens.
Only a few dollars, and cheap insurance for peace of mind.
Valve cores do sometime loosen or fail completely, and an o-ring cap will help hold the air in the tire if that happens.
Only a few dollars, and cheap insurance for peace of mind.
Do you really feel safe without going all the way: carbon fiber valve caps? (Actually, these are likely heavier than simple plastic O-ring valve caps, but they look really cool!)
Fast Eddie B
Well-Known Member
Well, best to remember that “Form follows Function”. I find cosmetic/excessive use of carbon fiber kind of silly*.
Aircraft tubes come with heavy duty metal o-ring valve caps. I happened to have exactly four lying around, albeit painted bright yellow. I hit them with some flat black paint, and you’d never know they were’t cheap plastic!
Curiously, when i clicked on your link, Amazon nicely informed me those valve caps would not fit my 2018 Honda Clarity. Who knew?
*Of course I know you’re joking around!
Aircraft tubes come with heavy duty metal o-ring valve caps. I happened to have exactly four lying around, albeit painted bright yellow. I hit them with some flat black paint, and you’d never know they were’t cheap plastic!
Curiously, when i clicked on your link, Amazon nicely informed me those valve caps would not fit my 2018 Honda Clarity. Who knew?
*Of course I know you’re joking around!