Service mode to retract parking brake

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JohnT

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Does anyone have the information as to how to enter 'service mode' and then retract the parking brake?

My local mechanic is going to change my brake pads and rotors - and HE !! researched enough to know that this needs to be done. I am impressed with that.

I have read the post(s) on calibrating afterwards if that becomes necessary but it would be preferrable to do it properly.

Thanks John
 
Many of us have the Autel AP200 scan tool.

The AP200 seems like it has this capability - BUT when I go to what looks like the applicable menu, some of the menu functions just seem to be blank. Keep in mind that Autel has not been officially supporting the Clarity with the AP200 and forum members have been given a beta version that provides battery capacity readout, It is possible that the beta version has not mechanized this function. Maybe this function would work on the non-beta version even though the battery readout doesn't. All I have running right now is the beta version so I can't try it.

Bottom line - Assuming your mechanic has some sort of a 'professional' scan tool, it is quite likely he can invoke the required functions just as demonstrated in the Civic video that @Jim Matthews linked above.
 
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If it were me i might consider a work around....leave the car on and place in nueteral. Use chocks to prevent car from moving.
 
One must use a scan tool that supports the clarity, to enter the service mode. AFAIK, there's no way to enter the service mode without the tool.

As an alternative, the parking brake actuator module can be removed. After removal, retract the brake by using a T45 to turn the actuator's shaft clockwise until it stops. There's a single-use gasket that should be replaced when the module is removed. The two screws are also marked as single-use.

After reinstallation, the parking brake system should then go through the re-learn procedure which is to set and release the parking brake twice.
 
pigrew said:
There's a single-use gasket that should be replaced when the module is removed. The two screws are also marked as single-use
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Just for reference, the 'single'use' screws are not unreasonable (~$5 each, on-line), but the gaskets are a little steep (~$40 each)... So, not being able to retract the parking brake adds about $100 to a DIY rear brake job. A set of rear pads is only $20-$40 depending on what you get...

I am not sure what causes these items to be single-use.
 
I think what you can also do is to disconnect the cable to the electric parking brake, use a 12 volt batt and 2 jumper wires to 'hot wire" the electric parking brake motor to retract it. Might have to flip the + and - around to have it rotate in the correct direction.
 
megreyhair said:
I think what you can also do is to disconnect the cable to the electric parking brake, use a 12 volt batt and 2 jumper wires to 'hot wire" the electric parking brake motor to retract it. Might have to flip the + and - around to have it rotate in the correct direction.
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This is a good idea... After seeing your post, I did find a video of somebody doing just this (it was on a Honda vehicle too)...
The actuator does seem to be just a motor that is simply driven by the 2 wires.
 
My mechanic (happens to be my son-in-law) managed to do the job without retracting. Took him 5-10 mins to figure out how to do it.
 
Alex800st said:
My mechanic (happens to be my son-in-law) managed to do the job without retracting. Took him 5-10 mins to figure out how to do it.
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Do tell !!!

It seems to me it is impossible to do the job without retracting (in some way). It is necessary to depress the piston back into the caliper in order to fit the new pads. I think this is impossible to do without retracting the EPB. You can do this with software using the proper scan tool, you can remove the actuator and manually retract, or you can energize the motor to electrically retract. In any event, it is a retraction.

If none of these, then what is the trick that your 'mechanic' used?
 
megreyhair said:
I think what you can also do is to disconnect the cable to the electric parking brake, use a 12 volt batt and 2 jumper wires to 'hot wire" the electric parking brake motor to retract it. Might have to flip the + and - around to have it rotate in the correct direction.
Click to expand...

I just did this two weeks ago when I replaced my rear pads and rotors. I used a milwaukee M12 battery with a couple of old multimeter leads. Just unhooked the connector, and touched the leads to the pins. It was pretty obvious which way made the caliper go in or out, I just applied power until it was fully retracted and stopped. When the job was done, I pulled the Ebrake switch like normal, and the motors ran for longer than normal until they grabbed, and turned off as normal. Everything has been perfect since then.
 
SR2K said:
I just did this two weeks ago when I replaced my rear pads and rotors. I used a milwaukee M12 battery with a couple of old multimeter leads. Just unhooked the connector, and touched the leads to the pins. It was pretty obvious which way made the caliper go in or out, I just applied power until it was fully retracted and stopped. When the job was done, I pulled the Ebrake switch like normal, and the motors ran for longer than normal until they grabbed, and turned off as normal. Everything has been perfect since then.
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Excellent... Thanks for corroborating this method with your actual experience. This actually seems easier in some ways than needing a specialized scan tool. It is certainly way easier then removing and replacing the actuator. The only caveat is having a convenient 12V source - the drill battery is a good idea.
 
MrFixit said:
Excellent... Thanks for corroborating this method with your actual experience. This actually seems easier in some ways than needing a specialized scan tool. It is certainly way easier then removing and replacing the actuator. The only caveat is having a convenient 12V source - the drill battery is a good idea.
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You can always pull 12v from the lighter or 1 of the interior light or from the car batt. You can also try using a 9v batt. It might just be enough juice for the motor to turn. It might just turn slower.
 
MrFixit said:
Do tell !!!

It seems to me it is impossible to do the job without retracting (in some way). It is necessary to depress the piston back into the caliper in order to fit the new pads. I think this is impossible to do without retracting the EPB. You can do this with software using the proper scan tool, you can remove the actuator and manually retract, or you can energize the motor to electrically retract. In any event, it is a retraction.

If none of these, then what is the trick that your 'mechanic' used?
Click to expand...


He just retracted them using standard tool to rotate and push brake cylinder. I did ask “any chance it will break the electric motor there?” He said “nah”.
After everything was in place, I pumped brakes several times until they started to work, and got multiple warnings on the dash about brakes, parking brakes, ats, etc etc. He plugged obd reader, cleared all warnings and away I went.
 
How about just release parking brake, turn off car, disconnect 12 volt battery? It can't reengage without power, right?
 
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