Hello all:
Back with another question since my dealer now wants to chrge me $$$ to change oil etc. 16500 miles now with 18000 coming uip soon.
I can do it much cheeper and always have but my dealer did first change for free then $30 for number two...now $70???
Ihave always used castroll in other cars. Looking at the castroll edge 0w-20 or maybe the new one called biosynth since it says it is good for hybrids.
Maybe purolator, wixx or honda filter?
Edd
Edd
I'll try to answer so as to not start WW3. I do not offer opinions nor recommendations on oil or filters...just the basics. Actually its not really Clarity specific either sans the 0w-20.
As to your question about 0w-20 Castrol Bio-synthetic (which is full synthetic BTW)...I actually am running this oil in two of my vehicles right now including the Clarity. At next OCI, I plan to have the oil analyzed from both vehicles to see how it performed since it is a newer product. The downside is the cost...most brands will be much more cost effective than Castrol Bio-Synthetic. I am running this oil because I am interested in the science...this is not a recommendation.
I will be glad to pm you the results of the analysis if interested although it will be months before next OCI.
Therefore, unless you want to use Bio-Synthetic for your own reasons...a quality 0w-20 oil will work just fine as long as it meets both API and vehicle manufacturer standards. Comes down to $$$'s.
Oil filter manufacturers typically produce three grades of filters...ok...better...best. Biggest difference other than price...type of filter media (organic vs synthetic), rubber vs silicone parts, surface area of media, can quality etc. Essentially, the more efficient the filter media is...the higher grade filter it is considered. For example, filters which advertise longer OCI intervals typically have full synthetic filter media which allows for a longer life span of optimal efficiency. Grade of filter chosen typically depends on: oil type (blend or full synth), OCI, vehicle usage and environmental conditions. Your vehicle...your choice.
As a guide...OEM filters tend to be the middle grade (aka "better") with mid-grade filter material...typically a blend of organic and synthetic. Nothing wrong with OEM filters. Nothing wrong with third party after market filters if chosen carefully.
Key consideration:
Oil filter chosen must include a bypass valve rated for a certain PSI (or narrow range) as determined by the vehicle manufacturers engineers for a given engine. This should not be understated. Every filter manufacturer is different. Some filters spec'd out for a certain vehicle model may have tight tolerance for the PSI valve...others may not.
OEM filters should have this PSI valve spec down pat. For those who want to use another brand...a little research will reveal the PSI specs as the figure is easily found in the spec sheet for most filters. Pick one with tight tolerance for the make/model/engine you are dealing with.
The Clarity throws a curve ball since every car is driven differently hence the question "how many miles are actually on the ICE?" This fact potentially creates another decision point when choosing a filter and oil type. That is for each individual owner to decide.
You mentioned you are an experienced oil DIY'er...so you know the drill. You probably have a list of "preferred" brands for both oil and filters.
If solicited, I will be glad to pm my thoughts on brands for either oil or the filters...and assume some others on this forum would be glad to provide input as well if you send them pm's.
I will also be glad to provide more detail on the issues discussed above since this is short and to the point...but only through a pm. As alluded to in
@KentuckyKen post...its hard to write-up anything oil that doesn't evoke the ire of some. Hopefully this post is not one of those as it is meant to be informative without the personal bias.
Hope this helps.
