My progress towards Level 2 charging

Fast Eddie B

Fast Eddie B

Well-Known Member
Right now, our charging needs are well met by Honda’s supplied Level 1 charger. In about 6 months, we’ve not yet had an occasion where anything other than overnight charging was required. If worse comes to worse, running on gas for a short time is not the end of the world. But rising gas prices in the future, or changing use cases, could eventually prompt a move to Level 2.

At our TN hangar home, it’s convenient that we have 240v/30A service running to our hangar door. That service is two “hots” and a ground, no neutral. At the yellow arrow:

47002904734_f029329532_z.jpg


I wanted to have a way to open the hangar door in the event of a power failure. I envisioned a transfer switch of some sorts, but a friend suggested installing an outlet, then just plugging the hangar door into a 240v generator if we need to open or close it with the power off. So I installed a locking generator receptacle:

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(I’m aware this installation might not meet code without a neutral, but none is required for this installation.)

I wired this up a few days ago and it works fine:

40786033653_ae0922e209_z.jpg


My plan is to start saving up for the 10,000w generator the door manufacturer says I’ll need, so as to have it by next winter. Power goes out and I need to open the door, just unplug from the outlet and plug into the generator.

That outlet is in a convenient spot to charge the Clarity either inside or out. I don’t see any reason I couldn’t use this same outlet to charge the Clarity, if and when I get a Level 2 charger. Via an adapter like this:

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Of course, with the Clarity charging there will be no door opening, and vice versa - but I don’t see that as a problem.

I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous. But does anyone see any flaw in this plan?
 
Electra said:
What breaker did you use, 30A, 40A, 50A?
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It’s fed by a 2-gang 30 breaker, adequate for the hangar door.

If 30A, you can get this: https://www.amazon.com/Zencar-Porta...14-30+charger&qid=1557187946&s=gateway&sr=8-6
and not use an adapter.
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I’ll probably go with a more standard plug for more flexibility. I also have a 50A RV receptacle wired in our RV yard, but it’s a lot less convenient. On the left, here:

42670864375_2a1fa79538.jpg


That seems to be one I might find more commonly “in the wild”.

If you want to use a 50A adapter, make sure your wiring and breaker is up to code.
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I would choose a Level 2 charger drawing 30A or less.
 
First, I'm surprised that hanger door takes that much power! I know it's a huge door, but isn't it counter-balanced?

With your adapter, you should be able to use something like this Clipper Creek plug-in charger to use as much of the 30 amps you have available in the hanger.

https://www.amazon.com/ClipperCreek...charger&qid=1557189732&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr1

I'm presently using a 240V outlet that has just the 2 hots and a ground, so I know the Clarity does not require a neutral.
 
Sandroad said:
First, I'm surprised that hanger door takes that much power! I know it's a huge door, but isn't it counter-balanced?

With your adapter, you should be able to use something like this Clipper Creek plug-in charger to use as much of the 30 amps you have available in the hanger.

https://www.amazon.com/ClipperCreek...charger&qid=1557189732&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr1

I'm presently using a 240V outlet that has just the 2 hots and a ground, so I know the Clarity does not require a neutral.
Click to expand...
I think you meant this model with the 14-50 plug:
https://www.amazon.com/ClipperCreek...rging+station&qid=1557190451&s=gateway&sr=8-9

OP, the max draw you should purchase is 24A for a 30A breaker.
 
Stick with a 30a EVSE or one that you can dial down like an OpenEVSE since you can’t manage the rate the charger in the Clarity takes.

You can then make or buy a L14-30 to 14-30 adapter. Alternatively you can clip off the neutral pin on the 14-30 plug and it will then plug into a 14-50 outlet.
 
It may be worth noting that the ChargePoint Level 2 EVSE does not require a neutral. Just the 2 hot legs and a ground. Might be just the ticket for how your described your hanger wiring. It saved me a little in that I only had to run 8-2 wire not 8-3. (Probably not a factor if your run is short.)
 
Wow, what a toy box. Is that a Lake? Those are rare birds.

Edit: never mind I found it. Sky Arrow! That looks like a lot of fun.
 
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There is no neutral in US 240v residential setup. 240v is made up of 2 120V line runnning at 180 degree phase difference. So when line1 sine wave is at its peek, the voltage will be 120v, line 2 will be a -120, and hence you have 240v!

Nice place @Fast Eddie B ! would live to take the bird out for a spin!
 
There is no neutral in US 240v residential setup. 240v is made up of 2 120V line runnning at 180 degree phase difference. So when line1 sine wave is at its peek, the voltage will be 120v, line 2 will be a -120, and hence you have 240v!

Nice place @Fast Eddie B ! would live to take the bird out for a spin!
 
megreyhair said:
There is no neutral in US 240v residential setup. 240v is made up of 2 120V line runnning at 180 degree phase difference. So when line1 sine wave is at its peek, the voltage will be 120v, line 2 will be a -120, and hence you have 240v!
Click to expand...

My assumption is that because the outlet and plug are both set up with a slot for a neutral, some devices might be looking for separate neutral and ground to provide 120v safely in addition to the 240v.

Nice place @Fast Eddie B ! would live to take the bird out for a spin!
Click to expand...

Thanks! Consider this an open invitation!
 
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