I purchased a level 2 charger for my 2021 Nissan Leaf. Since I did not have a 240 volt outlet, I purchased a junction box that creates 240v from 2 out of phase 120 volt outlets. The setup worked great for about a month, but all of a sudden the charger dropped the voltage to 120 volts. I checked and tested my outlet and it reads 240 volts. Does anyone know why this could happen?
Level 2 charger only runs at 120 volt
- Thread starter Andygar
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turtleturtle
Active Member
Have you contacted the manufacturer? Was it rated for 240?
Yes it read 240v for a while. I contacted the company and they say that if it is showing 120 it’s because that is the voltage coming in, but I measured 240. I am thinking it might be Amps or wattage?
I read this several times and still cannot make sense of it.
More clarity please, and some info on this "junction box".
"Since I did not have a 240 volt outlet"
followed by
"I checked and tested my outlet and it reads 240 volts"
are you using two separate 120V receptacles (5=15R), one fed from Line 1 and the second from Line 2 ?
or are you using a "split receptacle" one that is fed with a 3 wire, 120/240 feed?
The normal voltage at the split receptacle ungrounded conductors (the hots) will measure 240V between, and 120V to neutral and ground. Like wise the two separate receptacles (if fed from different legs), so this should be super easy to troubleshoot.
I would assume in this "junction box" all they are doing is tying both hot legs onto the 5-15 receptacle terminals, one line to the left blade (normally neutral - or identified conductor is the proper terminology) and the second to the right blade (the smaller of the 2) and ground (no continuation of the neutral conductors) to the output.
Check your outlets, if they are normal, open the box and figure it out from there is the best advice I can give with limited information.
Feel free to post pictures, including the input connector on your level 2 EVSE
Perhaps some photos of the configuration and testing? Include the power distribution box showing the circuit breakers.
Bob Wilson
Bob Wilson
I opened the box, this is what the wiring looks like. The two 120V plug into separate outlets that are on different busses in my electrical panel to create 240V. I get a reading of 240V between my 2 black (hot) bladesI read this several times and still cannot make sense of it.
More clarity please, and some info on this "junction box".
"Since I did not have a 240 volt outlet"
followed by
"I checked and tested my outlet and it reads 240 volts"
are you using two separate 120V receptacles (5=15R), one fed from Line 1 and the second from Line 2 ?
or are you using a "split receptacle" one that is fed with a 3 wire, 120/240 feed?
The normal voltage at the split receptacle ungrounded conductors (the hots) will measure 240V between, and 120V to neutral and ground. Like wise the two separate receptacles (if fed from different legs), so this should be super easy to troubleshoot.
I would assume in this "junction box" all they are doing is tying both hot legs onto the 5-15 receptacle terminals, one line to the left blade (normally neutral - or identified conductor is the proper terminology) and the second to the right blade (the smaller of the 2) and ground (no continuation of the neutral conductors) to the output.
Check your outlets, if they are normal, open the box and figure it out from there is the best advice I can give with limited information.
Feel free to post pictures, including the input connector on your level 2 EVSE
If you measure 240V between the 2 female connectors, the EVSE is at fault. Note all you will get out of this is 2880 W, is that what the EVSE is rated for (model and make please)? Is it adjustable? Is the charging current adjustable in the car?, as this is a 6-50 outlet(picture) capable of much more than the (2) 5-15 outlets will supply. Also not a fan of double lugging the bonding conductors, particularly if one becomes loose. Also note the approved minimum/maximum wire gauge sizes on the connector body:#10 to #4
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2021 Nissan Leaf. I don’t think the problem is the vehicle. When the charger is plugged in it reads 120V in the Real time voltage section of the charger screen, even before the car is plugged in.If you measure 240V between the 2 female connectors, the EVSE is at fault. Note all you will get out of this is 2880 W, is that what the EVSE is rated for (model and make please)? Is it adjustable? Is the charging current adjustable in the car?, as this is a 6-50 outlet(picture) capable of much more than the (2) 5-15 outlets will supply. Also not a fan of double lugging the bonding conductors, particularly if one becomes loose. Also note the approved minimum/maximum wire gauge sizes on the connector body:#10 to #4
Electrically speaking, the "2 outlet feed of different leg" is a really bad idea. In the event of a short circuit, which of the 2 breakers will trip, maybe both but not likely. That is why code requires a 2 pole breaker to feed a device or receptacle as displayed, so both of the ungrounded conductors are de-energized. I won't even get into possible feedback on a different circuit, tying the two together.
I did not suggest the problem is in the vehicle, only to enquire if your Leaf has the capability to reduce the charging current.
I do suggest you have a certified electrician test (under load) both of the receptacles feeding this, and while he/she is there, wire a circuit that will properly supply the load in this case the maximum rating of a 6-50 receptacle (50A/240V) and do a load test . Picture shows 16A @240V (3840 W) which is too much for the (2) 15A receptacles to supply, even if the EVSE was working correctly.