Kona unresponsive - Strange flashing drive modes - Dead 12V or Immobilized?

Chris Alemany

Chris Alemany

Active Member
Got up this morning to the Kona behaving very strangely. It seemed to be unlocked when I got to the car. Not sure now if it responded to my unlock press but it doesn't respond to the key fob now.

When I got in, the drive mode indicator lights were flashing and the key light was on on the dash. Otherwise, completely dark and no response from the power button.

When I got out the right front turn signal was partially on and the left back turn signal was on. They went off after a time.

The car was plugged in. I started it to charge last night before going to bed. It was at 80% at 2AM according to blue link. But it is now unresponsive on there as well.

There were no lights on on the vehicle or anything and it has been driven regularly so I can't see why the 12V battery would be dead so I don't want to jump it if it's not dead.

At a loss... feels like it needs a reboot... going to phone the dealer once they're open this morning.
 
You can check the 12V battery with a volt meter, that's easy. If the battery is ok. I would try to disconnect the negative terminal, wait a couple minutes and reconnect. That'd be your reset.

Also, though unlikely, maybe check the battery in your key fob?

My bet is on the 12V battery. You said it might have been unlocked when you walked up to it. If the car is not completely locked (door not completely closed) it might not go to sleep and then drain the 12V battery. A very common issue in fact.
 
I just checked Bluelink and its last report indicates all doors closed and locked when it completed the charging cycle at 2AM. I tried both my and my wifes fob so it can't possibly be both at the same time. I'll try the reset with the 12V...
 
Q on disconnecting the negative terminal. Is it sufficient to disconnect just the small plug that runs to the terminal or should I remove the entire ground cable from the negative post?
 
Not sure what exactly you mean with the small cable but you might be talking about the cable the car uses to monitor the battery voltage (with questionable success).

You need a small wrench and you should disconnect the cable from the battery terminal.
 
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Esprit1st said:
Not sure what exactly you mean with the small cake but you might be talking about the cable the car uses to monitor the battery voltage (with questionable success).

You need a small wrench and you should disconnect the cable from the battery terminal.
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that's the answer I needed. thanks.
 
electriceddy said:
A useful tool to keep in the center console storage compartment:
https://www.insideevsforum.com/comm...d-up-at-ea-had-to-tow-kona.10237/#post-119057
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Yes, I keep a small screwdriver with socket but it doesn't have the 10mm socket required. Will definitely add... :)

After its initial modest flashing I mentioned at the start, the disconnect of the battery has had no impact. The car is completely dark. I don't have a voltmeter so can't test the battery. Doesn't make sense that it would be dead considering it would have been charging when the car was charging right to 2AM and I got in at 5:30AM.

Dealer will be open soon... will call them for advice and report back.
 
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Here's a video of just after I first got into the car. You can see the drive mode lights flashing and hear the relays in the car (and me clicking the key fob) as well as the ding of the car system, but that's all I've got from it. After this it has been completely silent and dark.



The attached picture shows the dimly light right front turn signal. The left rear signal was in a similar state. Both lasted for a couple minutes before going dark. You can also see the EV Battery is green. (80%)
 

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Do you have a jump battery for the 12V? I know when my 12v was dead there was absolutely no response from the car so trying a jump is worth a shot. We bought a small lithium battery that we keep in the car just for those occasions.
 
Got it jumped and it's fine now. Hyundai dealer recommended that since the battery is (just) out of warranty, to grab one from Lordco. So I've done that and I'll replace it. Boo. 2 year lifespan for a 12V battery? Terrible. Thanks all for the advice. That has to be the weirdest behaviour from a car I've ever seen. Chalk one up to the ICE camp, at least it's easy to know what's wrong if the engine doesn't crank. ;)
 
Yeah a weak 12V battery causes all sorts of weird problems in the Kona. I have had my forward radar and headlight sensors go wonky amongst other oddities. Consider yourself lucky you got 2 years, mine was completely fried with 6 months and it was like pulling teeth to get the dealer to replace it under warranty. 30K traction battery we will replace but a $150 lead acid battery is no Bueno for you :)
IMHO the original Calcium AGM battery was garbage.
 
KiwiME said:
Leaf owners use this troubleshooting checklist.

View attachment 13549
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Hahaha! Thank you for this informative list! :)

apu said:
Yeah a weak 12V battery causes all sorts of weird problems in the Kona. I have had my forward radar and headlight sensors go wonky amongst other oddities. Consider yourself lucky you got 2 years, mine was completely fried with 6 months and it was like pulling teeth to get the dealer to replace it under warranty. 30K traction battery we will replace but a $150 lead acid battery is no Bueno for you :)
IMHO the original Calcium AGM battery was garbage.
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Clearly! I went to Lordco. They didn't have anything recommended for the Kona Electric in their system. So he looked at the battery and you could tell he had never seen one quite like that. lol. Anyway, we got one of similar spec. Maybe 1/4" taller and no recessed posts so the connections are a little tight, but otherwise fine. Nowhere for the plastic cap for the negative post to be secured to unfortunately so it is exposed. Might have to think of a way to protect that.

IMG_3623.webp
 
Well, glad you got it fixed. I wouldn't bet on the battery being actually dead. I (as many others have) left my trunk not completely closed once and it drained the 12V completely. A friend owns a trickle charger and I put the battery on it over the next night. After that I used it for about half a year without any problems.

Then Hyundai bought back the car.
 
Chris Alemany said:
Nowhere for the plastic cap for the negative post to be secured to unfortunately so it is exposed. Might have to think of a way to protect that.
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The OEM cover over the negative terminal is cosmetic only. You don't have to protect it, so don't sweat it.
 
Big blob of dielectric grease after connected and tighten down
Chris Alemany said:
Hahaha! Thank you for this informative list! :)



Clearly! I went to Lordco. They didn't have anything recommended for the Kona Electric in their system. So he looked at the battery and you could tell he had never seen one quite like that. lol. Anyway, we got one of similar spec. Maybe 1/4" taller and no recessed posts so the connections are a little tight, but otherwise fine. Nowhere for the plastic cap for the negative post to be secured to unfortunately so it is exposed. Might have to think of a way to protect that.

View attachment 13550
Click to expand...
 
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