Kona EV -2kW @ Regen Level 0

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sjerra

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Hi,

Does anybody here experience ~-2kW of regen braking even when coasting at regen level 0?
I come from an Ioniq and that car would coast for very long (really long!) and I loved it.
My KONA EV has much more slowdown. Initially I thought it was the additional drag because of aerodynamics and weight. However, when displaying the consumption screen; it turns out that even at level 0 and coasting, I get -2kW regen.
This is super annoying. The car slows down unnecessarily and @-2kW also at a very inefficient operating point.
With the Ioniq I thaught myself to go of the throttle a lot earlier and let it coast for hundreds of meters before coming to a firm stop (By upping the regen to level 3). The motto being: what you don't put on the road, you don't have to regen.

So is this -2kW normal with the KONA or should I get it remedied at the dealers.

Thanks for the help,

sjerra
 
I noticed that a year ago when I bought mine. I don't see why it's a problem. It might be enough to cover the vehicle's fixed power requirements.
 
Hi,

Does anybody here experience ~-2kW of regen braking even when coasting at regen level 0?
I come from an Ioniq and that car would coast for very long (really long!) and I loved it.
My KONA EV has much more slowdown. Initially I thought it was the additional drag because of aerodynamics and weight. However, when displaying the consumption screen; it turns out that even at level 0 and coasting, I get -2kW regen.
This is super annoying. The car slows down unnecessarily and @-2kW also at a very inefficient operating point.
With the Ioniq I thaught myself to go of the throttle a lot earlier and let it coast for hundreds of meters before coming to a firm stop (By upping the regen to level 3). The motto being: what you don't put on the road, you don't have to regen.

So is this -2kW normal with the KONA or should I get it remedied at the dealers.

Thanks for the help,

sjerra
Maybe the FCA or auto regen was kicking in. Were there cars in front of you?
 
I sort of explain that here, about halfway down. It's not enough to matter, and
you can prove that to yourself by moving between D and N and see if you can
butt-feel *any* difference.

In that -2 or -3, -4 state [depending on speed] the pack current reported by
OBD2 is closer to 0, which is why I guessed that most of whatever "regen
bleed" was coming in was going to the 12V. But it doesn't need that much
either, so I'm still not sure where the number is coming from.

But it's not significant regen, and you'll notice that it doesn't start any
"distance regained" display in ECO until you actually press the brake pedal.

_H*
 
Hi all,

I replied a while back, but it doesn't seem to have posted it. So I'll post it again.
Thanks everybody for your replies.
Hobbit, I tried the drive to neutral test. You have a point, the difference is not so big, but it is noticable. It's a comparison I can only do on a long stretch of road without other users. It does mean that the Ioniq has vastly superior coasting properties. of course its much more aerodynamic and lighter.
It's weird that Hyundai has opted for the strategy of regen for LV. Using regen at such a low power to put in the low voltage battery is very unefficienct. The efficiency will be 60% at best. Concidering that it had to be put on the road in the first place (@85%) this means a round trip of 50%. Why not take the power straight from the HV battery.

Regards,

sjerra
 
I don't get any decel sensation at all. Feels like the motor is acting like a big flywheel. Then again, this is my first ev and I don't have anything to compare it to.
 
I see roughly 1 km per second loss of speed, on the flat obviously, and that seems plausible as 2kW of regen.
 
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