Fun with VESS

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hobbit

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While I've got things apart [again], I thought I'd check out the functionality of VESS control which
isn't provided with a switch in the US market. Behind the block of buttons near the driver's door,
referred to as the "left crash pad" in our doc, there's a connector into the switch block, and it was
an easy matter to backpin the appropriate green and grey wires and have a play.

At startup VESS defaults to on, with the LED output on. I hung my "noid box" off it so I could audibly
tell when the state changed. The green wire sources a little over 3V with a maximum current of 1 mA,
so grounding it is perfectly fine and seems to be what an installed switch does anyways. The VESS
state toggles on a rising edge above about 1 volt, i.e. when you let go of a grounding button.

From this I thought "hmm, what if you held the disable input near ground for some time at startup",
i.e. toward a passive VESS-disabler consisting of nothing but a largish capacitor to ground. The
disable line would take some delay time to charge that past threshold. It actually works, but also
needs a discharge path to drain fully when off. Using a 500 uF cap in parallel with 100K, I powered
up and heard the noid box for about half a second. It took several seconds to discharge after power-
off, so fully passive might not be reliable for rapid operation sequence.

So in general, an auto-disable would only need to hold the line low at power-up for a little while and then
let it up. No fancier pulse stuff needed.

Frankly, it's still easier to pull the speaker connector up front. It's a little fiddly the first time because the
latch is hard to press, but I snipped the latch tab off mine so it's easy to put the connector back for any
"compliance" purpose that comes up, and pull it again later.

_H*
 
I find being able to use the VESS at a moments notice is useful in driving situations where I'm reluctant to risk bowling someone over. With the stock momentary pushbutton it's not too hard to remember to disengage it at each startup, which I do along with LDW. I was thinking of either a simple transistor-based RC circuit to provide that momentary pull-down for both on each power-up, avoiding the massive overkill of a small microcontroller. But, laziness has got the better of me and I can't be bothered, at least while I'm still under the factory warranty.

It's good to know the current and voltages involved however.
 
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