Check EV light- POB5900

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IGSAD

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Hello all, first time poster but have been rewarded several times over by the wealth of information I've been able to gather over the past few months in regards to our 2021 Kona Preferred.

About 5 days ago, I plugged in the car only to get the charge port indicator flash red several times and then stop charging. I tried both 120 and 240 charging and was treated to the same result.

After driving the car around the block, I received the check EV light along with a message to have the car scanned at the dealership at my convenience. I brought the vehicle in the following day (no light anymore and charging fine) and was told that code P0B5900 (battery voltage sense "G" circuit) had been logged but battery had tested fine at 3.7V in each of the 96 cells and I should just monitor and report back if it reoccurs.

Today it has occurred again and will be phoning Monday morning to bring it back in. My question is; has anyone had something similar happen to them so that I might guide the technicians in the right direction? It is unnerving having this fault and not knowing the real cause as the recall worm burrows through my mind ;)

Thanks so much,

Rich
 

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IGSAD said:
Hello all, first time poster but have been rewarded several times over by the wealth of information I've been able to gather over the past few months in regards to our 2021 Kona Preferred.

About 5 days ago, I plugged in the car only to get the charge port indicator flash red several times and then stop charging. I tried both 120 and 240 charging and was treated to the same result.

After driving the car around the block, I received the check EV light along with a message to have the car scanned at the dealership at my convenience. I brought the vehicle in the following day (no light anymore and charging fine) and was told that code P0B5900 (battery voltage sense "G" circuit) had been logged but battery had tested fine at 3.7V in each of the 96 cells and I should just monitor and report back if it reoccurs.

Today it has occurred again and will be phoning Monday morning to bring it back in. My question is; has anyone had something similar happen to them so that I might guide the technicians in the right direction? It is unnerving having this fault and not knowing the real cause as the recall worm burrows through my mind ;)

Thanks so much,

Rich
Click to expand...
Hi, welcome to the forum ... code P1AA600 appears to be the code for one or more of the 98 cell(s) developing a recall type issue.

Have you checked the 12V system (recharge and residual voltages) and if low disconnect the negative terminal 12V battery (to reset the error). Recharge the battery then reconnect if the charging system is below 14.4 V.
Hopefully it's confined to a LV problem, not sure what that particular code involves, but low accessory battery voltages have been known to cause some peculiar issues.
 
Thanks for the response. It's a certainly worrisome code for a car whose battery was manufactured mid December 2020 and outside of THE recall dates. I will test the 12V and see where we stand.
 
12V was indicating 12.46, a little on the low side and only 13.8 with the ignition on, also on the lower side. Perhaps I might have a charging issue, I know a low battery on an ICE vehicle can certainly play havoc on things.
 
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IGSAD said:
12V was indicating 12.46, a little on the low side and only 13.8 with the ignition on, also on the lower side. Perhaps I might have a charging issue, I know a low battery on an ICE vehicle can certainly play havoc on things.
Click to expand...
Those 12v levels , don't look bad imo. A running ice vehicle is around 14v with the alternator boosting it and your standing voltage is not bad.
Have you noticed if your amber light for 12v charging is lighting up in the front Hyundai logo?
As for Hyundai telling ya the truth with this batterygate, I've lost all faith with them especially with the mishandling of these battery replacements.
 
Agreed they are in the normal range. I have seen the amber light before but not that often.
My daughter did tell me that she has noticed the "charge 12V battery" a couple of times during power off, I have not personally seen this but she has driven it more than me the past couple of weeks before she had to back to University!
Will be getting back in touch with the dealership and will update accordingly. Thanks.
 
IGSAD said:
12V was indicating 12.46, a little on the low side and only 13.8 with the ignition on, also on the lower side. Perhaps I might have a charging issue...
Click to expand...
As a note, best not measure the charging voltage in Run mode because it's not consistent or indicative of anything useful. Use Utility mode or measure it within the first 30 minutes while charging the traction battery.
 
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So, if you measure the battery voltage when the car is off you should get no less than about 12.6. I generally see 12.8 V after it settles down and I'm currently in a "no-drive" lockdown so 12V charging is only once a day. My Kona (and 12V battery) is 3 years old.

I would suggest leaving the car in Utility mode for 3-4 hours. You don't need to be "plugged-in" to the wall socket. You can lock it with the mechanical key if needed.

Another suggestion is to purchase and install a BM-2. Search for that for details. It takes the guesswork out of understanding the 12V battery.
 
Be aware that in certain ambient temperature conditions, the 12V rail *does* drop to 13.6 or 13.8
under certain conditions, usually normal driving but a change can sometimes be seen just going
between neutral and drive sitting still. My Prius did a similar thing too, dropping by half a volt
or so when it went into D. I could hear the inverter-coolant pump note change...

_H*
 
And of course I've got a graph for that. In Run mode and during driving it dithers around all over the place, note the red dots while the black line is the moving average. When stopped waiting for traffic I often hear the turn signals change their beat after a few seconds and that could be a sign of changing voltage. On other trips I've found that increased use of HVAC tends to push it to spend more time at 14.6 V.

12V system voltage while driving.webp
 
Excellent information on the operation of the 12V system, thank you.
Just back from the dealership and naturally my issue was not present at the time of drop-off or during the service. The BMS (logic application upgrade) and VCULDC (must confess, not sure what that is yet) was updated. Hopefully the fix lies within those tasks, until then I sit back and monitor the situation ;)
 
IGSAD said:
Excellent information on the operation of the 12V system, thank you.
Just back from the dealership and naturally my issue was not present at the time of drop-off or during the service. The BMS (logic application upgrade) and VCULDC (must confess, not sure what that is yet) was updated. Hopefully the fix lies within those tasks, until then I sit back and monitor the situation ;)
Click to expand...
The latter VCULDC is the one that refers to the charging algorithm of the 12 V system;)
 
I don't even have this update yet despite that it's from about Dec last year. Coincidentally I did get a call from the dealer's receptionist today asking me to book an appointment for this update (111), the 118 BMS Improved monitoring logic, and saying that the "fuses" are in. I think that last campaign is from 2019, AC compressor fuses. Things move glacially here. And I've only put 2,000 km on it since the last $250 service in Nov.

You can imagine when I picked up the call I was hoping she'd say they had a battery for me but she had no idea what that was about. She said she would "ask Hyundai corporate" and phone back. Well, it's been hours now, no callback.
 
VCULDC is a dual-function module: the big inverter to drive the motor [VCU], and the step-down
converter for the 12V [LDC]. It's often in one box because it's a convenient place where the high
voltage appears and needs to get routed to other functions. Often the driver for the A/C compressor
is in there too, another high-voltage function. [Not in the Kona though, the compressor inverter is
integral to it]

_H*
 
KiwiME said:
I don't even have this update yet despite that it's from about Dec last year. Coincidentally I did get a call from the dealer's receptionist today asking me to book an appointment for this update (111), the 118 BMS Improved monitoring logic, and saying that the "fuses" are in. I think that last campaign is from 2019, AC compressor fuses. Things move glacially here. And I've only put 2,000 km on it since the last $250 service in Nov.

You can imagine when I picked up the call I was hoping she'd say they had a battery for me but she had no idea what that was about. She said she would "ask Hyundai corporate" and phone back. Well, it's been hours now, no callback.
Click to expand...
Yeah Hyundai Aus (HMCA) sent out their official 'we're starting battery replacements, book in now` email last weekend. I contacted my local dealer on Monday, which is semi regional, and they said they cant take bookings yet as they dont have enough info from HMCA.
 
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