Any feedback on AeroVironment’s 32-amp EVSE-RS charger?

[Ohliuw]

So, as the Canadians are so nice that we are getting gouged without complaining, the prices of L2 chargers are almost double the prices in US... I was trying to find something reasonably priced that would qualify for the rebate, and the only one I found was the AeroVironment’s 32-amp EVSE-RS sold by GM dealers for less than $600. It doesn’t seem to be sold pretty much anywhere else, which I think is due to the fact that AV sold their car charger business to some company Webasto, which seem to have discontinued these models. Does anyone have experience with it and the Clarity?

This model is pretty basic and doesn’t have option to set to amps (basically fixed at 32), but I think it will still work ok with Clarity (which takes 30amps based on what I read here, correct)?

Also, any problems installing it on the vinyl siding? If The electrician passes the wire from the back, would it affect the weatherproofing given the bracket wouldn’t be on flat surface? They also give the option to pass the wire through the side, but I am not sure if it is meant for indoor installs only.

 

[Sandroad]

I have the AeroVironment 16A Level 2 charger and it works fine with the Clarity, but it's very basic and does nothing but charge the car with 240V at 16A. I did just buy another brand of 32A charger with bell and whistles, but not because the AeroVironment didn't work.

I wonder why chargers are more expensive in Canada?

There are no problems with an electrician installing a charger on vinyl siding. It's common to install external boxes on siding with a soft putty-like material to seal the hole and joints.

 

[TomL]

So, as the Canadians are so nice that we are getting gouged without complaining, the prices of L2 chargers are almost double the prices in US... I was trying to find something reasonably priced that would qualify for the rebate, and the only one I found was the AeroVironment’s 32-amp EVSE-RS sold by GM dealers for less than $600. It doesn’t seem to be sold pretty much anywhere else, which I think is due to the fact that AV sold their car charger business to some company Webasto, which seem to have discontinued these models. Does anyone have experience with it and the Clarity?

This model is pretty basic and doesn’t have option to set to amps (basically fixed at 32), but I think it will still work ok with Clarity (which takes 30amps based on what I read here, correct)?

Also, any problems installing it on the vinyl siding? If The electrician passes the wire from the back, would it affect the weatherproofing given the bracket wouldn’t be on flat surface? They also give the option to pass the wire through the side, but I am not sure if it is meant for indoor installs only.

I haven been using a Morec portable 32 amp EVSE for about 10 days now and it works great. Cost $288 on Amazon with free shipping.

 

[Ohliuw]

Thing is, there is a 350$ rebate for a list of chargers (AV is on the list), plus $250 rebate in installation. So it will be way cheaper for me to get more reputable charger.

 

[Kestrel]

I've been using their TurboCord 240V charger (which has no bells or whistles, but doesn't need to be installed) for about 15 months with my Clarity and have been very happy with it! I plug it in when I'm home and the Clarity's timer starts charging as expected.

 

[DucRider]

This model is pretty basic and doesn’t have option to set to amps (basically fixed at 32), but I think it will still work ok with Clarity (which takes 30amps based on what I read here, correct)?

A couple of things worth noting:
The "charger" is built into the car and handles the process of charging the batteries. What you are talking about purchasing is an EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). It's function is to provide AC power to the car and has redundant safety features built in to protect the user and the vehicle. The "handle" that plugs into the car itself has been designed to be used thousands of times in all weather conditions.

The Clarity will draw up to 32 amps, but will draw no more than the EVSE communicates it is capable of providing. The charger (in the car) will control the amperage and the amount drawn will taper to a lower level once the battery SOC approaches 100%.

 

[2002]

A couple of things worth noting:
The "charger" is built into the car and handles the process of charging the batteries. What you are talking about purchasing is an EVSE (Electric Vehicle Supply Equipment). It's function is to provide AC power to the car and has redundant safety features built in to protect the user and the vehicle. The "handle" that plugs into the car itself has been designed to be used thousands of times in all weather conditions.

The Clarity will draw up to 32 amps, but will draw no more than the EVSE communicates it is capable of providing. The charger (in the car) will control the amperage and the amount drawn will taper to a lower level once the battery SOC approaches 100%.

Those who have measured it say that the Clarity charger only draws 30 amps maximum. 32 amp EVSE's are common which is probably why the manual says "or by using a professionally installed Level 2 240 volt (32 amp) charger." At first glance obviously that makes it sound like it will charge at 32 amps but they doesn't exactly claim that, although it would have been nice if they put a little asterisk next to the statement in the manual because it is somewhat misleading. It could also lead someone to believe that they can't future proof their installation by purchasing for example a 40 amp charger. It would have been better if Honda simply stated what the maximum charging rate is.

 

[DucRider]

Those who have measured it say that the Clarity charger only draws 30 amps maximum. 32 amp EVSE's are common which is probably why the manual says "or by using a professionally installed Level 2 240 volt (32 amp) charger." At first glance obviously that makes it sound like it will charge at 32 amps but they doesn't exactly claim that, although it would have been nice if they put a little asterisk next to the statement in the manual because it is somewhat misleading. It could also lead someone to believe that they can't future proof their installation by purchasing for example a 40 amp charger. It would have been better if Honda simply stated what the maximum charging rate is.

I typically see it at 30 amps (when I bother to look), but on Monday I happened to do so and it was drawing 32.04 amps @ 239 Volts and showing 7.66 kW.
I have it set for delayed charging, but had just driven my wife to the airport and wanted to top off for later use that day so used to fob to start an immediate charge. I don't know if there was some battery conditioning going on since I had just finished driving (moderate temps, about 70 degrees), or why the higher than usual draw. I'd gone 64 miles and was at about 43% SOC when the charge session began and I looked at the reading. It was out of the ordinary, so I took a second (and closer) look which is why I remember the numbers.
In the Honda specs I've seen, they list the charger as 6.6 kW (which is 30 amps @ 220V or 27.5 amps @ 240V)

 

[TomL]

Thing is, there is a 350$ rebate for a list of chargers (AV is on the list), plus $250 rebate in installation. So it will be way cheaper for me to get more reputable charger.

Interestingly, it was cheaper for me here in Wisconsin to buy a portable 32 amp EVSE ($288) with an electrician installing a 240V outlet in the garage ($100) than to get a free 30 amp Siemens EVSE from the area Electric Co-op ($550 value) which had to be hard wired in my garage at my cost of $400-500 as estimated by an electrician. This incentive from the Electric Co-op is based on them installing a flow meter that would control the hours I could use the free charger (no charging from 2-9 PM).

 

[Ohliuw]

Interestingly, it was cheaper for me here in Wisconsin to buy a portable 32 amp EVSE ($288) with an electrician installing a 240V outlet in the garage ($100) than to get a free 30 amp Siemens EVSE from the area Electric Co-op ($550 value) which had to be hard wired in my garage at my cost of $400-500 as estimated by an electrician. This incentive from the Electric Co-op is based on them installing a flow meter that would control the hours I could use the free charger (no charging from 2-9 PM).

This is confusing? How did he justify 4x more for hardwiring than running 14-50? It is more or less the same - e.g he would probably use a disconnect box for hardwiring instead of outlet and then run short wire from the box which he would screw inside the charger.

 

[TomL]

This is confusing? How did he justify 4x more for hardwiring than running 14-50? It is more or less the same - e.g he would probably use a disconnect box for hardwiring instead of outlet and then run short wire from the box which he would screw inside the

Two different electricians, but I agree with your assessment. The difference in bids is due to two reasons. First, there is a scarcity of electricians in this region of WI so there is little interest in doing small jobs. As a result, bids are often high to make it worth their time. I was lucky to find a guy willing to install the 14-50 outlet for $100. Took a month to get it done. Second, for such a small job it was too complicated to coordinate with the electric co-op to get the free EVSE, meet their specs, and allow for their installation of a flow meter.

 

[DucRider]

Two different electricians, but I agree with your assessment. The difference in bids is due to two reasons. First, there is a scarcity of electricians in this region of WI so there is little interest in doing small jobs. As a result, bids are often high to make it worth their time. I was lucky to find a guy willing to install the 14-50 outlet for $100. Took a month to get it done. Second, for such a small job it was too complicated to coordinate with the electric co-op to get the free EVSE, meet their specs, and allow for their installation of a flow meter.

I'm also guessing that the $100 install did not include a permit and inspection, where the EVSE install likely did.

That being said, the advice we generally give to people looking for quotes is not to mention "EVSE" or "Electric Car" as that often seems to result in higher quotes. Anecdotal evidince only, but heard it enough that I give it some credence. This is easy to do for an outlet, but much harder to accomplish for a hardwired unit. You'd have to have a circuit installed to a junction box, then connect the EVSE later.

 

[2002]

Interestingly, it was cheaper for me here in Wisconsin to buy a portable 32 amp EVSE ($288) with an electrician installing a 240V outlet in the garage ($100) than to get a free 30 amp Siemens EVSE from the area Electric Co-op ($550 value) which had to be hard wired in my garage at my cost of $400-500 as estimated by an electrician. This incentive from the Electric Co-op is based on them installing a flow meter that would control the hours I could use the free charger (no charging from 2-9 PM).

Outlets seem to be getting more popular because of the flexibility and because once it's installed you're done with electricians. If you later get a BEV you could sell your 32 amp and buy a 40 amp which should be good enough for anything but a really long range car. And if you move you can take your EVSE with you, and the 240V outlet in the garage could be a potential selling feature, even if a prospective buyer doesn't own an electric car they may realize the value in the house being ready for one.

 

[Ohliuw]

I suspect I will have some ridiculous quotes as they sparkies in QC are well aware that there is $250 rebate on labor.

Normally it should be way less than than given my 200amp panel is located on the inside of the wall behind the location of the charger.

I will approach them first by asking how much for 14-50 outlet and then ask for hardwiring as suggested. I don’t see how they could justify charging way more.

 

[KentuckyKen]

FWIW, my ChargePoint has spring loaded terminals that accept either CP’s short cord for plug in or direct wire. Since the opening for direct wire is on the back, my local codes allow the 8-2 wire to enter directly with no disconnect box typically seen on an HVAC or water heater. I didn’t ask, but that may be because my EVSE is in the garage and in direct sight of the main breaker box.

I got mine installed by running the 8-2 wire myself from the main breaker to a old-work box on the stud the EVSE is mounted to. Got lucky and fished the wire down the drywall from the attic on the first try! CP even includes the template, mounting hardware, and nut driver bit. Bought the wire and 40 Amp breaker and then paid my licensed electrician his one hour labor/service charge ($75) to hook it up to the breaker box. Safe for me and signed off by a licensed electrician. No permit needed. If I move, which is not likely as I went solar last year, I just take the EVSE with me, wire nut the ends and stuff them in the box with a 19 cent cover.