Recent content by JZ99

E-file really is blatantly corrupt. The IRS fill-in PDFs work fine. Always free. All tax situations covered.

Convenience is severely underrated.

Calculated. Recent change to L2 reflected in wall numbers.

The only times I got better than 70% on L1 was when terminating below 100%. My best ever L1 was from 6% to 74%, with efficiency of 76%. I consistently get in the 50%s charging from 90-100%. Also, I see some correlation between charge quantity and efficiency. More charge is more efficient...

My average with 10A L1 is 61%, 16A L2 87%. That's a 43% improvement. The L2 charges ~4.5x faster, due to higher voltage, higher current, and higher efficiency. Schumacher 16A L2 charger for $150 at NAPA. Simple outlet installation. $30 for a breaker and outlet. A bit of spare 12/2 from my...

I'm using the factory supplied charge cable. I noticed that it pulls 10A all the way up to fully charged. My expectation was that it would reduce charging current during the last, constant voltage, phase. I wonder why it behaves this way. This must be a source of inefficiency. I've also...

Sadly, it does seem to be dumping all that energy. Lost in conversion. It is not due to preconditioning. The app numbers correlate well with what I'm measuring coming out of the wall. It does appear that the last part of charging is considerably less efficient. The one sample in the last...

Another Minnesotan here! My calculated range for the last week, based on % used.

I just completed a highway round trip at -10F. Whopping 65 mile range. I would have been sweating over the 4 mile remaining range it was screaming at me, except I was freezing in G+ mode!

Plug-in is cheating, but hybrid isn't. Diesel is fair game, too.

Over 100,000 miles, at $0.125 per kWh, averaging 3 miles/kWh at the battery, the difference between 60% and 80% efficiency would represent around 14MWh, which would cost around $1,800. So, it is marginal. One consideration, for me, is that if I install an L2 charger, the power company will...

For whatever bad software reason, the app seems to only load the last charge cycle data after the car is driven.

We are converging on: L1 60-65% L2 80-85% L3 90-95% Obviously, L3 is best, since the boost and rectification is done internal to the charge station, vs. the car OBC. But you still pay for the loss, via higher kWh rate.

Thank you for posting. What was the charge method at Electrify America? L2 or L3? Charge rate? I'm wondering why the efficiency is higher. It must be DC.

When I started this study, I thought the app reported numbers must be wrong, since my calculated efficiency numbers were so bad. So I purchased a watt meter with a claimed accuracy of around 1%. It's reported kWh values are consistent with the app reported numbers, although it is higher...