What's your mileage (mi/kWh)

What tyres do you have? Have you checked the pressure? Mine were low from the showroom.

Saying that, I am currently getting similar mileage in similar temps, on Nokian Wr-G4 tyres. I was doing much better in the summer on stock hankooks. On some 60s days just after putting the winter Nokians on, mileage was very close to hankook mileage.
I have hit 4.0 a few times on 50-something days with Nokians. My driving is mostly interstate 65-70.

Precondition eats several % on chilly days

 

1.8 mi/kWh - worse than Ford F-150 Lightning and Rivian R1T.

 

Smaller wheels almost always offer an efficiency/range advantage.

 

I also run on 16s

 

Try harder. I've been down to 0.9

 

It depends so much on tires and weather. In the summer I see 5 often and even 6 a couple times in the mountains. With below freezing weather and snow tires it’ high 3’s now.

 

Wow! 0.9mi/kWh on the MINI is the world record for 26.01mi max range!

 

There are a number of factors that can increase your consumption as you seem to know, but for completeness:

1. Temperature
The car uses more energy when it's cold. You mention not using AC etc, but know that going from standard room temperature to freezing temperature drops range by 20%.

2. Aerodynamics
If you have a roof rack, a rear cycle carrier etc or drive with the windows open etc you lose range.

3. Hard acceleration and heavy regen
While the car does recover some energy when slowing down you still lose some through heat losses, the same goes for acceleration. Slowly accelerating and slowly decelerating waste less energy to heat.

4. Not maintaining speed well
Most people do not drive as smoothly as they think they do, small movements of your foot, even over bumps, wastes power. Sport mode is the worst for this, mid is better, green is eve better. That lag they introduce helps smooth out the delivery. Another key point is not to be too abrupt when backing off the "gas", try to not let the power needle drop down past the "ready" indicator as as soon as it does regen kicks in, whereas with the needle on "ready" the car is coasting. Try switching the info display in the bottom right (press the tip of the stalk) to show current power usage, I use that to help me lower my usage

5. Under inflated tyres.
This makes a big difference also, ensure they are at the door sticker pressure. Also, not standard wheels and tyres can increase consumption, particularly the tyres.

6. Not pre-conditioning the cabin while plugged in.
The car wastes a lot of power heating (or cooling) the cabin from the battery, try to do so while it's still plugged into the wall using the app.

7. Multiple short trips vs one long trip
This is again related to the cabin heating/cooling. If you make lots of short trips, like from home to work, then from work to a restaurant for lunch, then back to work, then from work to a grocery store, then from the grocery store to home; you'll use far more than if you just drove that route nonstop.

8. Wet roads
The drag from the water increases consumption.

Finally, I made a few videos where I test the range on a mixed route and a full on freeway route, in both "perfect" weather (no heat or Ac needed) and freezing temperatures on the same route with the heater running. Take a look at those and see if the driving matches yours to give you an idea of what you should be getting:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLIEJmlo9osgbDDvNgoKmhdN-qkae8YacC


Now with that said, I am concerned by your loss of battery charge overnight if not plugged in. Ours does not drop at all, even over a week, no matter if the garage is hot or cold. So that doesn't sound right to me, you may need to get it checked...

 

In the summer on 16” OEM summer tires I averaged 4.54 mi/kwh. Based on reported battery percentage and miles driven. Low per recharge of 3.9 and high of 5.1. Mix of city and highway. Driving only on interstate I usually see 4.1.

Since early November when I switched to all-seasons I have averaged 3.6 mi/kwh and have seen 3.2 to 3.9. As far as I can tell the tires/wheels have a bigger impact then the temperature.

 

Been getting 5.0 to 5.7 mi/kWh with temperatures between 70F and 80F. On OE summer Hankook 16 inch wheels / tires.

That falls to 3.5 -3.7 mi/kWh in the winter, with swapped all seasons (16 inch). Relatively mild winter temperatures between 30F to 45F currently. Damp or wet roads. Cabin heat set to 65F to 70F with heated wheel and seats on.

Sport mode ON with the above. I haven't noticed a significant change in MID or GREEN mode, with the exception of a significant reduction in seat heat (because reasons?)

My driving habits are usually backs roads and stop and go. Speeds rarely exceed 50 MPH. I haven't noticed much of a hit at higher speeds (below 70 MPH), sweet spot probably between 55 and 65 MPH with minimal efficiency hits.

It's all about the wheels and tires unfortunately, the elephant variable in the room.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk

 

My experience runs counter to this in the SE. There's no reason an EV is less efficient in cold weather, since there's no fluids moving around and almost no moving parts. Extreme cold causes a decrease in ePower (max acceleration), but not range.

My experiment at -3 ºF last winter with all heat disabled showed the range isn't affected much, I was able to achieve 4.84 mi/kWh.

 

If you don’t use the heater then you are correct.
But most people do, therefore cold temperatures affect range.
Note that some cars like Teslas heat the battery to protect it, which also affects range.

 

I don't know how to have the little graph like you show, but we've put on almost 10,000 miles in 4 1/2 months and average m/kwh is 3.5. Have 17" all season tires with aftermarket wheels. Overall tire weight is one pound less per tire/wheel than the 17" power spoke wheels that it came with. 95% of driving is flat roads at 65mph in mid mode.

 

Tyres vary enormously is rolling resistance. Perhaps 4:1 between draggy and the lowest rolling resistance. Unfortunately, the data is not readily available in the US. As a general rule, cheap tyres are draggy. Even with a gas car, it works out cheaper to pay extra for LRR tyres.
Europe has mandated tyre labels that class Rolling resistance, wet grip and noise. If a tyre is sold in Europe, you can look up it's label.
Tyre and wheel weight makes a negligible difference in economy. Wheel size and design makes a small difference. More open and sharp spoked designs (like my winter wheels) are more draggy.
Google is your friend here!

 

We've got about 1000 miles on ours as well. I drive my wife's SE once a week to work, 50 mile round trip. I use sport mode because it's the most comfortable for me. I don't drive crazy, but don't baby it either. I nail it when i feel like it. We've got the power spoke wheels with Pirelli Cinturato P7's.

With current outdoor temps in the 30's and 40's F, and interior heat at 72-76 F, i've been getting around 3.5 mi/kwh. Approximately a 50-50 split of highway 70mph and back road driving. The Ioniq 5 is getting around 2.5 mi/kwh in the same conditions.

 

Picked up my SE last Friday and still getting the feel of the car.. The weather has been cold from 17 to in the low 30s - the cold really cuts into the range. I have been averaging around 3.0 mi/kwh. I am also running some fairly aggressive all seasons. The weather here is supposed to turn nasty with lots of snow and cold. It will be interesting to see how the SE handles the snow and extreme cold.

 

Here is how our usage has been since we got ours a few months back. I reset the center trip at the end of every month. Dec is currently tracking at 3.9 so winter seems to be affecting ours, nothing has changed other than the temperature here in the Denver area. Every day week month is different since we don't commute to work with it. It's our daily run errands car.

Month - mi/kwh - miles - ~mph
July - 4.5 - 666 - 26

Aug - 4.8 - 980 - 27.2

Sept - 4.7 - 878 - 25.2

Oct - 4.8 - 826 - 26

Nov - 3.9 - 401 - 23.3

 

Actually, this isn't true. Air gets more dense as the temp decreases. PV = nRT. For the same volume and pressure, if T (temp) decreases, n (number of atoms) increases proportionately. The air friction is 1/2 pCdAv^3, where p (greek letter rho) is the air density. So if your air temp decreases by 10%, the force created by air friction increases by 10%.

Apologies for the maths. My MINI is over 2 years old and the lifetime average is 12.5kWh/100km which is 4.972mi/kWh. Call it 5 between friends. My SE is never out of sports mode, and I accelerate hard whenever I get the chance.I do however keep to the speed limit (using the limiter) and try to decelerate smoothly. I live in a place where temps rarely go below 20c during the day. Temperature plays a massive role in range/efficiency.

 

It is fully possible to get 4.84 mi/kWh at -3F assuming:

• Battery is not cold-soaked and charged to 100% (still plugged in before departure)
  
• Cabin is climatized whilst plugged in (climatization uses HV battery and is recharged by EVSE)
• All cabin controls are completely turned off during the trip

However if you add in the extra kWh consumed for climatization, then the efficiency is probably lower. If you want to precondition something like a Tesla, it would consume about 7.8-12kWh for the battery + cabin.