I originally joined this forum because I was trying to learn details of the Clarity's 12V system to figure out how to execute a plan to use the vehicle as an emergency back-up power source for some house loads during a blackout. Well, the recent public safety power shutoffs in California finally had me running a real-world test on what I assembled. I was using a somewhat oversized Samlex 1500W pure-sine inverter with 2/0 cables that I screwed on to the extra-long 12V battery posts; the post for the power cable on the positive terminal and the battery clamp on the negative terminal, each with an appropriate nut. It looked a little kludgy, and I couldn't get all the threads on the nut down onto the bolt, but was a solid enough connection, and when I spot checked repeatedly the points of contact weren't even warm to the touch at the relatively low loads I had it under. I did shut it down when I went to bed, though, partly to conserve power and partly because I wasn't comfortable enough with the setup to leave it running without a bit of monitoring. I'd hate to wake up to an exploded battery or stolen car. I could have fed the battery cables through the grille on the front, but I just let the hood down gently and it wasn't putting any pressure on them. I ran the cables under my garage door so I could put the inverter inside out of the weather and also somewhere it wouldn't burn down my car or house if it blew up or something. I have a manual transfer panel for circuits that have my fridge, TV, and some lights that I normally use with a large UPS, and I made up a cable to connect the hardwired output on the inverter to that transfer panel. I used hardwired instead of plug so I could ground the inverter but use the house's existing neutral bond instead of creating a parallel ground path. I turned off everything in the car I could--interior lights, headlights, climate, infotainment screen--and dimmed the dash all the way to minimize parasitic use by the car. Worked better than I expected it to, if anything. Ran the fridge and living room lights for many hours without issue. Keeping an eye on the app's battery state of charge report, I calculated about 3% of the battery pack per hour of fridge and lights. Would have been faster of course had I been watching TV much, but still probably on the order of 7-8% per hour or so. I didn't run the battery down to the point the ICE kicked in, but per previous experiments I did it will cycle on at 1% and charge to 4%, so it would have been running for probably a few minutes about once an hour. Not the best way to treat the main battery pack, but wouldn't have broken anything to be sure. The inverter I bought never even got warm on the loads I was giving it, and the fans never turned on, so it was completely silent even in the garage. The car likewise was silent unless you got very close, at which point I could hear what I assume was the internal cooling system running just a bit. Battery voltage at the terminals was between 14.6V and 14.5V every time I checked, and with the fat cables I had there was maybe a 0.05V drop at the inverter terminals. I also figured out that using the Secure Power outlet on my SMA PV inverter, which will generate up to 2000W AC directly from the panels on the roof, that I could charge the car with the 120V trunk charger and still have enough left over for the refrigerator during the day, and could put enough back in to the car to replace what I used at night as long as the weather was good. Only two downsides to the whole setup: You can't lock the dang car! Because the key fob was not in the car, it refused to lock. No one in my neighborhood is likely to try to steal it (and you'd have to unhook the battery cables first), and I don't have anything of value in the car, but still it was pretty annoying. The way the 12V system is set up there's no good place to connect the cables without cutting into something or removing the existing terminals. For future use I'm considering making a short cable with one of those winch-power-style quick-connect connectors and an inline fuse, attaching it under the posts where the power system is connected to the battery, and just leaving the connector under the hood for quick connect when necessary. Only downside is that I'd probably want to take it off before service so some mechanic didn't mark "unauthorized modification" or something and screw up the warranty, and the positive connection point is really buried so it'll be hard to squeeze a lug in there without having to damage the plastic shield. All in all, though, highly successful, and I'm now confident that I can at minimum keep some lights on, the food, cold, and a computer running indefinitely in case of disaster.