Second Service A01

Three cooling systems are Engine, Drive Train (DT) and Electrical System (ES).
DT cools the power control electronics, ES cools the battery and charger electronics.
As I understand it, the 3 radiators have no liquid connection, but are all one aluminum part.
Trans fluid has its own oil cooler (I know, here is no transmission).
Honda calls it an e-cvt (a virtual transmission?), but it uses ATF so I'll call the thing I will drain and refill with ATF DW-1 a transmission because that's the way I am.

 

Did you get the cooling system info from the 3106 doc that AnthonyW shared? It lists the same names which is somewhat confusing since the manual calls them by different names. And we have limited tech docs that have been generously shared by those who payed for a day on Honda’s site. So it’s not easy peasy to figure out

Here’s the 3106 doc as a pdf:
It shows the HV batteries, the DC to DC convertor, and the battery charger (which I assume to be the Inverter of the manual) are all on one cooling loop with a valve that can bypass the battery when needed

The manual on the diagram on p 480 and the explanations on pgs 488-491 shows the 3 cooling systems as:
1. Engine
2. Inverter
3. High Voltage Battery System
With the engine having a reserve tank and the inverter and HV battery System having expansion tanks.

I could find only 3 radiators and looked as well as I could using a borescope. If only 3, then one has to be for the a/c, and one for the engine (the one next to the fans). That leaves only one for everything else, although as you mentioned it could have two separate paths in it, but they look rather narrow to have them.
If you merge the manual and the 3106 doc then you could say the 3rd radiator is for what the 3106 doc calls the ES cooling (HV, DCtoDC conv, and charger(inverter?). But then what about the DT cooling the 3106 doc says is for the PCM?
And does the large module bolted on top of the electric motor (which has a cooling hose going into its front left lower) contain the DC to DC conv and Charger/inverter and/or PCM? I don’t see them any other place under the hood or are they tucked away with the HV battery pack? Also I could find the small tranny cooler mentioned above.

Would the Clarity Brain Trust (you know who you are!) please explain this for me. It’s bugging me.

 

Module on top is the DT electronics, expansion tank is on driver's side under hood
Charger is behind the battery under the car, expansion tank is under the radiator cover - there is a little sight hole in that cover that I can't see anything through.
I don't see any connection between the DT and ES systems, the only valve I found in the ES system is for routing coolant between each of the battery banks and the DC/DC converter.
Since there are dedicated expansion tanks, I am thinking there is no cross connection between DT and ES cooling systems.
From an engineering perspective, if there were any connection, it would make sense to combine coolant loops and components to simplify and reduce cost.
Since that was not done, engineers must have needed to segregate heat loading between the systems.

 

Easier to analyze if keep coolant separate for each, but since you said...

...this would make it a little harder to analyze as the same housing is being affected thermally by all three coolant loops.

 

The single radiator saves weight and collapses to only one part number.
As you noted, that decision came with a down-side.
Hopefully the radiators shed heat to the environment faster than heat conducts between them!
My preference is three (thermally separate) radiators.

 

With as little driving as I'm doing these days (3500miles in 7 months - or about 500 miles a month and less than 30 gallons of gas), I may have to go in before the first service indicator comes up.

 

Just noticed looking at the 3106 doc that ES is Energy System cooling (not Electrical System).

 

I'm at 3,600 miles currently and the oil burning seems to have stopped completely as far as I can tell. Burned quite a bit when it was new.

I have a Honda CRV that had multpile issue recenelty at 78k miles.
1. Air bag recall - part on order should come in July
2. VTC Actuator just replaced this week after making horriable noise when starting. Lucky they only charged me $25 out of warranty.
3. Oil consumption, car continues to have oil light come on way before the 10% standard signal. I have gone to Honda for oil changes and it has not qualified for them to do the work to fix. Now my light goes on at 40%. I cannot get a magic number to get Honda to say when they will warrant the fix.

 

(CRV comments aside...) Are you saying that your Clarity was burning oil? First I've seen of that problem (please point to any prior discussion of it).

 

The service interval is based on the reccomended synthetic blend oil and has a built in cushion for situations like your trip. How ever if you go to a full synthetic oil your idea of using the gallons of fuel used may negate the need of an hour meter on the ice for setting a reasonable service interval.

 

Im a low milage driver and am only averaging 700 miles/month. My MM is showing first service at about 1 year after purchase. So I’m timing out on time not distance. I agree with @Viking79 that if you’re driving a regular or large number of miles, even if it’s mostly EV, the MM seems to have you changing oil way before the small number of HV miles would suggest your oil needs to be replaced. I too, speculate it’s just using total miles not HV miles in its calculation.

 

What type of oil does the clarity require? regular, semi synthetic or full synthetic?

Page 152 of the manual says recommended oil is "Genuine Honda Motor Oil 0W-20 ·API Premium-grade 0W-20 detergent oil"

what is genuine honda motor oil?

 

I don't know about the detergent part but all 0-w20 are synthetic.

 

Honda actually seems to offer 2 different “genuine Honda” 0W-20 weight oils and doesn't offer any non-synthetic oil. In the past, I’ve seen one in a silver quart bottle that says “Ultimate Full Synthetic” and is higher priced than the black bottle that says “Synthetic Blend” and is lower priced. So I would stick with synthetic over regular old dino oil, even if you could find it. And if you prefer one over the other, you should specify it up front to your service advisor or make sure you’re getting charged for the right one.
(Note that Honda changes its packaging and labeling often but the full vs blend will still be in on the label.)

There is some discussion and dissension over their differences. You can go to bobistheoilguy.com to go down the rabbit hole of oil information if you have an extra lifetime to peruse it all. (And if you want to start WWIII, just get into the discussions over whose brand oil or filter is the best.)

The short story is that the higher priced Honda “full” synthetic has been reported to have more molybdenum additives which are arguably better for lubrication in hybrid engines that undergo a lot of stop and go frequent starts. The lower priced synthetic blend is more comparable to Mobile 1 but with perhaps a little less viscosity benefits over the whole temperature range as Mobile 1. All of this is highly debatable as reliable source documentation is hard to come by.
I put the word full in quotes because the rules have been changed to lessen the requirements to call an oil fully synthetic and so many oils that are labeled full synthetic are what used to be called synthetic blends.

That being said, you can’t really go wrong using any synthetic (full or blend) oil that meets the API and viscosity requirements set forth in the manual. And remember that the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act in the US, means you don’t have to use Honda parts or fluids to keep your warranty in force as long as they meet Honda’s requirements and you document everything.

FWIW, I will use either the Honda Full Synthetic oil that a friend gets me at discount or Mobile 1 depending on the price. If they are the same or close, I’ll use the Honda but at about once per year, it’s not really a big deal cost wise.
Before anyone attacks me over oil choices, please reread the paragraph preceding this one. Thanks.

 

thanks, This is my first honda, just wanted to know what honda is putting in. My dealer charges $60 for the oil change, tire rotation and inspection - same price if i go outside, some even charge more for full synthetic.

 

I've tried and tried to get info from Honda about their self-branded fluids. They won't answer any questions at all; not even simple things like "Which, if any, of your self-branded engine oils meet HTO-01?" HTO-01 is a Honda engine oil specification. Conoco-Phillips has the manufacturing contract, but that's really all the info you'll get out of them about the oils.

My dealer stocks the black-bottle 0W20 in quarts in the parts department, but the service department uses what would be the silver-bottle stuff, just in bulk rather than quarts. They'll sell me either, but obviously I would have to bring a 5-gallon pail (or something) in with me if I wanted the silver-bottle stuff.

 

I live in the Marin county area have a Clarity PEV I hit 6100
Here is my bill listing these codes but from what I see is that 72.83 for an oil change and visual inspection seems high. Is this a normal price for an oil change. Yikes

HOZZ#0 72.83 I may switch to an outside oil change service.
Visual inspection 91.00 umm that is alot to look at a car.
Tire Rotation 29.95 seem ok market rate


Below are the service codes that may help others access what it entails.
Anyone have price estimates on how much my 2nd service will be?

It is kind of comical that they list check tier pressure 4x


Does anyone else have suggestions for regular service for my PHV?

Hope this helps others
Thanks
Brian

 

After a huge 1000 mile road trip, I wanted to change the engine oil. The engine was running like mad in the uphills. It really depends on how your 6000 miles are driven. If you take 6 of those road trips, probably you have to change oil half way around 3000 miles.