Repair issues and fixes

What year is your kona?

 

You can't replace a bearing, or my bad battery using OTA Don't get me wrong, I am a fan of the idea. But scraping breaks or water in the trunk, flying off top, poor pint and poor fitting doors can't be either. I love Tesla and Elon but right now I just want my Kona back on the road.

 

2020

 

Also, I have had my car into the dealer twice now for the tick-tick-tick noise when accelerating and decelerating - not yet resolved. Based on the experience of others with the same problem, the likely solution is replacement of the traction motor (existing motor is version 700, s/b replaced with 701, or possibly 702?), and replacement of the gear reduction unit. Dealer has been helpful, but says they can't replace anything without a code being thrown in their diagnostic system, which isn't happening. However, at the dealer's request I've opened a case directly with Hyundai, and I'll post with an update one way or another - will take a few weeks I am sure.

 

I wish it would be that simple. I have friends driving Mercedes and BMWs. Their repair needs are high and so are the bills. We drove Toyotas (Tercel, RAV4, Camry, 2xPrius) for over 20 years and had no problems - just changed the oil and other fluids and service the breaks when needed. (Forgot windshield wipers - blades only)

 

I can confirm - Toyotas are really reliable. However, the ICE HMC (and more specifically the Kia, and I drive or have already driven 4 different models of Venga, Carens and Soul -- or my children are currently driving them), are as reliable as Toyotas I drove before. So far, in my Kias have literally broken down only single little things, without affecting the continuity of use. I hope that the problems of the Kona electric are only childhood diseases, especially as they are quite precisely defined and concern actually three things: a 12V battery, a motor and reduction gear unit, and a high voltage battery. It is a pity that HMC services are not always able to rise to the occasion and deal with breakdowns with minimal inconvenience for customers.

 

Thanks for the uplifting note. I hope you are right. For the few short weeks (6!) we drove our Kona EV we fell in love with it very quickly. Beside the range it is more solidly built than our iMiEV was. Mind you during 6 years of ownership we only took Bubbles to the garage once for servicing the breaks. The curse of regen breaking. Not enough use of the mechanical breaks help them to corrode.

 

Why I am holding off on Y.Difference,Tesla's ability to do OTA includes proactive diagnosis where they message you to bring your car in if a hardware fix is required.Where a ranger can do most repairs at your office,or home.

 

My cousin's Corolla took them through university ,and another 7 years after since they traveled about 2 weeks out of a month away from home.It got taken out by a hit and run. Me,my first,and last Lexus was a lemon Toyota took back because they couldn't fix their MCU that controlled things like: hvac,SMX,Nav.,PHEV settings. I have never owned a hyundai product pre the Kona electric,and was inspired by a nieghbor's ICE Soul,strangers' Ionq EV - especially ones used for UBER,Lyft.

 

BMW, you lease,and give it back.Mercedes,not the best build quality either.Audi continues with its electrical problems,surfacing in their etron.Friend's late model Q5 required a major engine part replacement in year 4;their extended warranty took care of the pieces not covered under standard warranty.Another friend's SL roadster's transmission seized/slipped when accelerating;Mercedes couldn't repair it until the warranty expiredWhile another's 1 year old Cayenne GTS engine couldn't be "fixed,"some unfortunate buyer's now stuck with this trade. Porsche went in for an approximate $3500 repair and manitenance,dealership called,and needed $9000 to deal with the Carrera 4S cabriolet.My problematic Audi thankfully had an extended warranty,and they still couldn't fix the warranty covered electrical issues.

For the German brands,people should know they may want to buy an OEM extended warranty if not leasing.Where standard warranty maintenance can be about $1800,or more as the vehicle ages. I don't miss ICE.

 

German premium class cars tempt with luxury, modern technology and design and performance. However, there is always a quid pro quo. We say that if you can afford the purchase, you must be able to afford repairs, and the abbreviation BMW maliciously develops in Polish as "you will have expenses". However, there are many people for whom it is not a problem big enough to give up with Mercedes, Audi or BMW in favor of less prestigious but more reliable brands. And that's been the case for years. Recently, however, you hear more and more about the growing problems of German car manufacturers. Probably the quality issues have something to do with it.

 

We have run 5 Toyotas in the family fleet in past 20 years, still own 3 of them with average age of 18 years , just routine maintenance items. I just sold our second 1997 Rav4 to our insurance company, written off for a cracked bumper/headlight. Nonetheless settled on $2500 for a well used 24 year old car. It owed me nothing but sad to see it go. These cars are amazing, they will start and they run on 2 cylinders as I learned after a rodent recently ate the ignition wires.

 

Tomek You can write to me in Polish I do own 2020 Kona Ev Ultimate I absolutely Love it I live in New York State. This is my 3 EV Janusz.

 

Can the dealer not hear the ticking when road testing? It's how I got the gear reduction unit replaced,otherwise no code,nor would I expect it with such a component unless it renders your vehicle inoperable,crashes it.

 

Remember too, you need to have both the reduction gear and motor replaced. When they did my reduction gear, the clicking came back after a while. Then they replaced the motor and it has been good ever since (about 16,000 kms ago).

 

The trouble is getting your dealer to do things you feel may be best practice but he does not or the direction they get from Hyundai is inconsistent. I first heard the ticking noise at 7,000 Km but it was like pulling teeth to get dealer to do something. They finally replaced only my motor at 17,000km, now at 40,000km I am pretty sure I am hearing a faint ticking under certain conditions. I have learned the hard way just to ignore it and wait for it to get worse because that is exactly what my dealer will tell me

 

Well, if mine starts ticking again, that will again change my view of my Kona and Hyundai. I had both the motor and reduction drive changed. Have been pretty happy with it lately.

Weird that some never get it, even with high mileage now.

 

I have 40k kilometers (25k miles) on my 2019 Kona and no such sounds.

 

Hm ... video removed