Recommend EV Level 2 Charger for home (US)

Not at all. Outlets and wiring/breakers are only rated for 80% with continuous loads. As someone already stated you would need a 60A circuit and outlet (which do not exist) so hardwiring is the only option.

 

Clipper Creek /very good support /build in California/ Model HCS -40PR with rubberized plug you drop nothing happens/plug in or hard wired /32 AMPS that’s what SE takes /Plug NEMA- 50 P . 5 years Warranty. I was used for 6 years with BMWI 3 and now I’m using with SE no issue .Have to be protected with 40 AMPS double breaker in a panel .My house have only 100 AMPS panel no issues.Good unit I highly recommend .25’ of wire very flexible no kinking good quality very flexible.

 

If you try to read mypost from February I have the same issue dealer did not found nothing wrong with car and I was really piss of but i email UK Germany and NJ headquarters My garage L 2 charger was working correctly bc I charged my BMW I 3 correctly and suddenly two weeks later miraculously everything start at fine without any dealer interference since February I have no issues charging on my L2 charger at my garage using Clipper Creek for I3 for 6/1/2 year 32 amps and now for SE240volts

 

Your SE charge at 7.4 KW at home L2 charger in USA They send those cars here with UK setting when you read that crab they saying you can charge a crab with 11 KW is not through . My dealer send me to DC charging station bc he said is nothing wrong with car . Those dealers at list some of them don’t no much about SE . My preferred charging is my garage only bc owning a solar panels cost me $0 to charge

 

Yes, for this situation. I'm saying that in general, the statement that there are no 48A outlets is semi-wrong, there are 50A outlets that could most likely be used if you had a whateverA circuit that only used 48A. That would be a weird situation, and wouldn't apply in this case, and might not be code-compliant, but I'll bet it's being done out there by somebody (just not for a car charger).

 

I did read your posts and that all does sound strange, glad yours is working now, for whatever reason. We'll see how mine turns out once the dealer gets someone knowledgeable from the main BMW/MINI tech support working on it.

 

I hope after more SE is on market the dealers and technical support learn something what is wrong with SE and they solve your problem to me mine SE is still mystery why start working correctly without interference from anybody maybe was fix over an air just getting into computer in my car .

 

Gotcha. Yes, I'm sure many folks do things like this, but it's dangerous.

I always tell folks who want a bit more future-proofing to just use larger wiring. Much easier to move to a hardwired EVSE and change the breaker if you already have the appropriate gauge wiring in place.

 

Not to mention what an insurance company would say on a claim if your EV started a fire in the garage and you had non-code wiring for the EVSE...

 

One other thing I wanted to mention about 50A outlets is that they are not all made equally. Most of your "builder grade" 14-50 outlets (IE the Leviton branded ones) are not really robust enough for constant plugging/unplugging. I believe this was all brought to light early on by many Tesla owners. If you're going to be using a 50A receptacle with a mobile charger that you consistently plug and unplug, I would HIGHLY recommend you go with a commercial-grade receptacle (IE Hubbell brand).

 

My L2 Clipper Creek 32amps charger is plug permanently .I ask manufacturer if this could effect live of a charger they say no and is pulling only minimal current .After over 6 years is working good and a plug is Nema 14-50

 

I ended up getting the $50 Eaton 5754N off Amazon, and it’s similar to the Hubbell. It almost looks to be twice the volume — and heft! — of the Leviton I picked up for $11 at HD (and soon returned). I don’t intend to frequently unreplug the Flex, but for Δ$39 it seems like a no-brainer.

 

Yea - I work for an electrical supply distributor and there's a big difference between the Leviton and Hubbell (we don't typically stock them from Eaton, but Eaton would be just as good as Hubbell). I started telling sales folks to ask contractors who purchase them if they're for an EVSE install and recommend the upgrade from Leviton.

 

According to the TSARA (not TSR) system and the techs, they say it's a 95% chance it's the KLE (which is apparently the charging module). Part's in Germany, so it'll be here whenever it gets here (they estimate 3 weeks).

 

Oh, forgot to post this article that I found when searching for KLE info. This was 8 years ago and sounds very similar to my problem, (almost) unbelievable...

https://insideevs.com/news/324899/bmw-to-finally-replace-i3-onboard-charger-to-restore-promised-74-kw-charging-rate/

 

The GrizzlE has dip swiches inside to change the charge level from 16A, 28A, 32A, 42A and 48 A.

 

After reading all the post on this, be aware that the J1772 has heat sensors in the vehicle receptacle that go to the charging control. Some manufacturer's also have them in the EVSE supply 14-50 plug. I know that there has been a need to replace the socket in some vehicles due to high resistance. Usually caused by dirt or corrosion of the high amp pins from dirt or chemicals. Chemical fumes from things like Clorine or acids play hell on them.

 

Thanks for the info, but I doubt mine has any dirt or corrosion, it's only been in the garage charging and out driving normally, nowhere there is enough dirt/chemicals to get into the charging area/socket, and has only been charged less than a dozen times. MINI says it's pretty sure it's the KLE, so I'm going with their recommendation for now...

 

What's wrong with the level 2 charger that comes with the car? Everyone on here seems to buy their own.

 

Nothing what-so-ever, but pre-2023 cars only came with an L1 charger. As I did with my Tesla, I'll be using the L2 charger that comes with the 2023 SE.