Preconditioning Use Cases

This is the only scenario I have used, and I agree that preconditioning using a L1 charger is useless.

 

I've successfully started preconditioning using the key fob. To make it work, you have to press the lock button first.

It confirms the start of preconditioning by blinking several times (the manual says six times - see page 199 for details).

 

Indeed, works great when connected to L2 (scheduled and ad hoc, fob or app).

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+1. It's really slow, but takes the curse off the morning drive. Heat comes on at full blast by the time I get to the end of the street, vs waiting few minutes.
On the plus side, it maintains battery SoC if you precondition w/ LVL1

 

Pre-conditioning draws 5 Kw when the heat comes on (can't remember what AC draws - - Alzheimer's)
Heat uses almost all the L2 capacity until the water gets hot, so there will be contention for charging.
I usually wait till 95% when the charge rate tapers on it's own.

 

I recently moved to Canada and brought my US Clarity with me. I had a level 2 charger installed and was pretty excited to use the scheduled preconditioning in the mornings. Unfortunately, it's unsuccessful most of the time. I'm not sure why it always fails. It could be due to it being a US car and maybe the HondaLink connection doesn't work as well now that it's in Canada. That said, manually starting from the app works as does the fob. After 5-10 minutes, I can definitely see the snow/ice melting off the windshield.

 

@Atkinson is right about the high draw. Here is a graph from my Charge Point app showing its almost 6 kWs at its peak. The first part is charging and the second peak is preconditioning after charging is complete. No wonder cabin heat drains our SOC and range!

 

I use app triggered preconditioning at work unplugged and it works great to warm or cool car within 5 minutes.



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Is the system heating up more than cabin compartment and seat? I guess I don't understand such a high power draw. I have a small 1500W space heater (120V) at home that could probably heat up the car cabin 10 minutes (now I will have to try it out to see), and even on the low power 750W setting it spews out lots of heat. For the small size of a cabin compartment, I'm surprised that an L1 charger can't manage to power something that can heat up the cabin in 20-30 minutes. Unless the heat is for heating up other stuff as well. Just seems strange to me.

 

Hi, I'm intending to buy a Clarity here in Mass., no garage at home, L1 charger. Wanted to know whether it is necessary or advantageous to use the Honda App for preconditioning vs. the key fob, and therefore whether the Touring model was preferable vs. the base model. Other posts said something about the need to end charging before preconditioning on L1 using the app; can that also be done using the fob?

 

Is there a charging station near your home or at your workplace?
That's all you need.

 

Heating elements have to heat up water which gets pumped to the heater core.
Half of that system is exposed to the environment, so there are losses.
This system really throws heat on a cold day, so it will draw serious amperage.
Contrasting that, we had a Honda Fit EV and the heater was barely able to keep up with below zero degree days.
It was probably sized for the limited battery capacity which also limited pre-condition performance.

 

But only if it can, which translates to, only if it is connected to a L2 charger. My experience on a level-1 charger is that the benefit of preconditioning is limited to the heater operating immediately when I start my trip. If my cabin temperature starts at 20, preconditioning might raise it to 30 after 15-20 minutes.

 

Thanks a lot, DC1 -- exactly the information I was looking for!

 

At my work garage there is a charger and I think it's free! I was mainly concerned about preheating at home in the morning using a 120V circuit. 20°F is not unusual at this time of year.