My progress towards Level 2 charging

Discussion in 'Clarity' started by Fast Eddie B, May 6, 2019.

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  1. Right now, our charging needs are well met by Honda’s supplied Level 1 charger. In about 6 months, we’ve not yet had an occasion where anything other than overnight charging was required. If worse comes to worse, running on gas for a short time is not the end of the world. But rising gas prices in the future, or changing use cases, could eventually prompt a move to Level 2.

    At our TN hangar home, it’s convenient that we have 240v/30A service running to our hangar door. That service is two “hots” and a ground, no neutral. At the yellow arrow:

    [​IMG]

    I wanted to have a way to open the hangar door in the event of a power failure. I envisioned a transfer switch of some sorts, but a friend suggested installing an outlet, then just plugging the hangar door into a 240v generator if we need to open or close it with the power off. So I installed a locking generator receptacle:

    [​IMG]

    (I’m aware this installation might not meet code without a neutral, but none is required for this installation.)

    I wired this up a few days ago and it works fine:

    [​IMG]

    My plan is to start saving up for the 10,000w generator the door manufacturer says I’ll need, so as to have it by next winter. Power goes out and I need to open the door, just unplug from the outlet and plug into the generator.

    That outlet is in a convenient spot to charge the Clarity either inside or out. I don’t see any reason I couldn’t use this same outlet to charge the Clarity, if and when I get a Level 2 charger. Via an adapter like this:

    [​IMG]

    Of course, with the Clarity charging there will be no door opening, and vice versa - but I don’t see that as a problem.

    I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous. But does anyone see any flaw in this plan?
     
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  3. Electra

    Electra Active Member

    Sandroad likes this.
  4. It’s fed by a 2-gang 30 breaker, adequate for the hangar door.

    I’ll probably go with a more standard plug for more flexibility. I also have a 50A RV receptacle wired in our RV yard, but it’s a lot less convenient. On the left, here:

    [​IMG]

    That seems to be one I might find more commonly “in the wild”.

    I would choose a Level 2 charger drawing 30A or less.
     
  5. Sandroad

    Sandroad Well-Known Member

    First, I'm surprised that hanger door takes that much power! I know it's a huge door, but isn't it counter-balanced?

    With your adapter, you should be able to use something like this Clipper Creek plug-in charger to use as much of the 30 amps you have available in the hanger.

    https://www.amazon.com/ClipperCreek-LCS-30P-NEMA-14-30-Certified/dp/B01K5XDNW8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?keywords=clipper+creek+las+30p+charger&qid=1557189732&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr1

    I'm presently using a 240V outlet that has just the 2 hots and a ground, so I know the Clarity does not require a neutral.
     
  6. Sandroad

    Sandroad Well-Known Member

    2002 likes this.
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  8. Electra

    Electra Active Member

    I think you meant this model with the 14-50 plug:
    https://www.amazon.com/ClipperCreek-LCS-30P-NEMA-14-50-Certified/dp/B01L0AT86K/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=24a+charging+station&qid=1557190451&s=gateway&sr=8-9

    OP, the max draw you should purchase is 24A for a 30A breaker.
     
  9. Thanks. I think I surmised that from other threads.

    And it IS a big door, and not counterbalanced in any way:

    [​IMG]
     
  10. AlanSqB

    AlanSqB Active Member

    Stick with a 30a EVSE or one that you can dial down like an OpenEVSE since you can’t manage the rate the charger in the Clarity takes.

    You can then make or buy a L14-30 to 14-30 adapter. Alternatively you can clip off the neutral pin on the 14-30 plug and it will then plug into a 14-50 outlet.
     
  11. KentuckyKen

    KentuckyKen Well-Known Member

    It may be worth noting that the ChargePoint Level 2 EVSE does not require a neutral. Just the 2 hot legs and a ground. Might be just the ticket for how your described your hanger wiring. It saved me a little in that I only had to run 8-2 wire not 8-3. (Probably not a factor if your run is short.)
     
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  13. AlanSqB

    AlanSqB Active Member

    Wow, what a toy box. Is that a Lake? Those are rare birds.

    Edit: never mind I found it. Sky Arrow! That looks like a lot of fun.
     
    Last edited: May 6, 2019
  14. Nope. Italian-made Experimental Light Sport Sky Arrow:

    [​IMG]
     
  15. KentuckyKen

    KentuckyKen Well-Known Member

    Wow, indeed. If you’re experiencing empty nest syndrome, I can be adopted at a very reasonable fee!
     
  16. AlanSqB

    AlanSqB Active Member

  17. I helped a fellow fly one from Dallas to Tampa and gave him transition training enroute.

    We’ve flown ours to AZ once, and to PA, IN and FL multiple times.

    My lovely and clever wife, Karen, put together this little gem:

    [/url]
     
    Mark W, AlanSqB, Mowcowbell and 2 others like this.
  18. 2002

    2002 Well-Known Member

  19. MPower

    MPower Well-Known Member

    Your Karen is a totally Kool wife. I love the video, especially the choice of music and the title cards.
     
  20. Sandroad

    Sandroad Well-Known Member

  21. megreyhair

    megreyhair Active Member

    There is no neutral in US 240v residential setup. 240v is made up of 2 120V line runnning at 180 degree phase difference. So when line1 sine wave is at its peek, the voltage will be 120v, line 2 will be a -120, and hence you have 240v!

    Nice place @Fast Eddie B ! would live to take the bird out for a spin!
     
  22. megreyhair

    megreyhair Active Member

    There is no neutral in US 240v residential setup. 240v is made up of 2 120V line runnning at 180 degree phase difference. So when line1 sine wave is at its peek, the voltage will be 120v, line 2 will be a -120, and hence you have 240v!

    Nice place @Fast Eddie B ! would live to take the bird out for a spin!
     
  23. My assumption is that because the outlet and plug are both set up with a slot for a neutral, some devices might be looking for separate neutral and ground to provide 120v safely in addition to the 240v.

    Thanks! Consider this an open invitation!
     

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