How to disable VESS (Virtual Engine Sound System) on 2020 (US)

Discussion in 'Kia Niro' started by Nelson1994, Sep 21, 2020.

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  1. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    How about you read and stop concentrating on using capital letters?

    There is a blue/black wire on precisely the pin that the schematic[from the 2020 niro EV, that I paid 19 bucks to access] says it should be.
    You chased pins from a Hyundai schematic and they did not line up, big surprise

    How about you read and not jump all over someone giving information, information from the official Kia site, not Hyundai.

    Did you say you traced pins 9 and 10? I did not see that you did

    How about working on your own reading comprehension, I stated there are wires at the VESS unit of the correct colors. There are wires at the connector, apparently on the correct pins of the correct colors, from your pictures. Yes, they could be an entirely different wire for an an entirely different function, but that would not be the way to bet, and since you have not looked at any schematic for a 2020 Niro EV[other than the one I posted] I think your rudeness is uncalled for. I don't know what is going on with the PC etch, but I think I would want to chase that blue/black wire before making pronouncements about what is and is not correct

    You should not need to disassemble the car. It looks like removing the drivers wheel arch liner will give access to connector EE01. Ring EE01 pin 26 and see if it connects to pin 9 of the switch assembly. If it does, grounding it should silence the VESS.

    You keep insisting with no evidence that the schematic is not correct, when it appears to be.
    Maybe it isn't

    But you don't know that
     
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  3. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    So go find some crow, and consume at your leisure

    The wires do in fact go into the car, to the connector you pictured
    Grounding the blue/black wire does in fact shut the VESS off.

    Grounded, no beep
    not grounded, beep


    I will post some details, but in the end it takes some trim tools and one [1] Philips head screw to access the back of the switch panel, and however you chose to do it[ I stuck a wire into the back of the connector and grounded to a nearby screw as a test] add a switch, or something more interesting. I am thinking a delay relay, so it chimes once might be nice.


    Now, it is possible that the part number for the switch PC board is different for Federal cars,[actually it is certain] and that there are several components to be added. If you got the part number for an EU switch panel and ordered it, I think plugging it in would be a pretty easy fix.



    I have no idea what your problem is, this is not a competition, this is just fixing an issue that bothers lots of people.

    The wiring schematic IS the schematic for your car[and mine] and this issue can be fixed in 15 minutes more or less.


    SO chill out, dude
     
  4. I'll be happy to eat TWO crows if it works... will try it...

    so you tried this yourself, just to confirm? On a USA sold 2020 Niro EV Premium?

    If you went to my site, you can clearly see missing components on the switch board.

    I worked back from those contacts to pins that had no wires... but apparently the wire that works is connected to nothing.
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2021
  5. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    Yes, as I stated in my post, I grounded that wire, it shuts up the chime.
     
  6. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    So I was thinking, a double throw center off switch. On side is momentary so you can sneak out of the garage without waking the neighborhood.
    The other side is latching and wired to a delay relay. The relay stays on for 5 seconds, enough for one chime. It wakes the dead, should be enough to make most people turn around and take notice. Delay relays are pretty common, even adjustable delay relays.

    The wiring diagrams are chopped up into little pieces, which is semi convenient for troubleshooting, but lacks a systemic overview. Point being if we could grab the backup light wire somewhere local, it would be pretty easy to do.
     
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  8. Just a note, on my Kona I grounded it through a 200 ohm resistor (as per the European schematics). I know , different car but it appears to use the same electronics. That would be the resistor solder points on the panel switch board in Greg's blog.
    https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/modifications-and-tweaks.5009/page-8#post-105992

    Picture of the pad schematic here showing the resistor:
    https://insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/turn-off-vess-virtual-engine-sound-system.5821/#post-67494
     
    Last edited: Jun 3, 2021
  9. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    OK, so the pinout seems different, and the internal logic[per the schematic for the 2020] is also different

    I have a feeling the resistor is not a bad idea, limiting current if there is a short in the aftermarket wiring.
    As Greg and others have correctly pointed out, the 2020 is very different from earlier years
     
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  10. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    Connector EM11 should be in the top left dash area
    Pin 33[brown] is the back up light signal
    Pin 45[blue/black] is the VSS defeat
    If accessible it should make wiring a relay to only turn off the reverse chime easy
    One could also use a delay relay to allow a single chime, which I think is pretty good
     
  11. I had breakfast today;
    [​IMG]
     
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  13. Did the first one go down well?:D
     
  14. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    I peeked under the dash this AM, and cannot instantly find the connector I want, but maybe I will find some time this weekend to investigate further. Finding quick access to the reverse wire makes multiple solutions simple
     
  15. So you grounded the wire at the connector in the engine compartment?

    From reading your post, it implied you already grounded the wire at the panel in the car.

    Which is it please?
     
  16. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    I implied nothing,
    <<<it takes some trim tools and one [1] Philips head screw to access the back of the switch panel, and however you chose to do it[ I stuck a wire into the back of the connector and grounded to a nearby screw as a test]>>>
    I stated I removed the panel and ran a ground wire to the back of the connector
    Behind the dash

    The connector I could not locate was EM11
     
  17. You are surprised at my confusion?
    I give up trying to explain it to you.

    What I said is I did not think the control wire came to the connector in the back of the switch panel.

    You said I was wrong, and that you tested it, now you are saying something else, looks like some other connector that you won't identify or something on the fuzzy pictures you posted.

    It's easy to pull the panel out and then disconnect the connector. Please check the connector I have been talking about the whole time.

    Alternatively, instead of me having to guess what connector you used and then you tell me that's the wrong connector, identify where the connector is that you actually tested.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2021
  18. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member


    This is what you said:
    >>>The VESS defeat wire does not make it to the panel where the switch would be..<<
    and
    >>Those 2 wires for the VESS do NOT come to the dashboard.<<
    pretty declarative, not 'I did not think'

    You were wrong. I said:
    >>>>
    The wires do in fact go into the car, to the connector you pictured
    Grounding the blue/black wire does in fact shut the VESS off.
    ......
    I will post some details, but in the end it takes some trim tools and one [1] Philips head screw to access the back of the switch panel, and however you chose to do it[ I stuck a wire into the back of the connector and grounded to a nearby screw as a test]<<<<

    I mentioned the connector you pictured, and taking the trim off, to anyone who is not trying to misread I think that is pretty clear.

    Which is what I described doing
    It is hard to imagine why you have to guess, I stated 'the connector you pictured' I could have said M26 but that is not what you called it and you seem to have difficulty reading schematics so I am not sure that would have mattered either. You seem to be confusing EM11 with the connector on the back of the switch, but there are clearly wires coming out of connector EM11 per the schematic

    Sorry you cannot read the images I posted, on my computer the connectors and wire sizes and colors are clear enough
    The path for the Blue/Black VESS wire is
    E87[connector on unit behind grill]
    EE01
    EM11
    M26[connector on back of switch panel]
    I just read these from the image on this website, not from my original, so it is clear enough
     
  19. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    27 main harness_Moment.jpg 27 main harness_Momenta.jpg Main harness detail
    They are fuzzier than my original, I will try to find a way to make it better
     
  20. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    EM11.jpg

    EM11
     
  21. ENirogus

    ENirogus Active Member

    9 back up_frame_0011.jpg Even when I get a better frame grab, the site seems to downgrade it
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2021
  22. OK so I am still correct in what I have been saying, until you "prove" the wire is present in the M26 on the back of the panel. I have been saying the wire is not in the M26 connector, or that the pins in the panel with the "missing switch" go to the M26 connector, i.e. they come to pins 13 and 16 and there are no wires in M26 on 13 and 16.

    The EM11 connector is physically close enough, no need to go further, unless you have a quest to prove me wrong (and I would be happy to be wrong, that the wire is indeed there in the M26 connector, even more convenient).

    It appears the EM11 is just upstream of the diagnostic connector, is this true? (the drawing is too hard to match the physical details of the locations)

    The pictures you are posting are about 800 by 448 pixels, very low resolution... cannot you do a larger screen capture? Or maybe you have hit the limits of what can be embedded in the forum... maybe email the picture?

    Greg
     

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