What's the fastest way to abort a charging session at home (excluding pulling the 14-50 plug to kill the charger)? The manual doesn't list anything and the only way I could find was through the EV menu by lowering the AC charging max below the current charge level. I was hoping it would be possible from outside the car by holding down the charge button or something simple?
It's tied in with the door locks. Lock then unlock the doors with the fob and you have (I believe) 15 seconds to remove the J1772 handle, but its also nice to know you can abort with the EV charge level menu. I haven't tied tried to lock/unlock with the door pb switch yet to accomplish the same thing. A little frustrating the first time. Note: there is also a orange disconnect button that you can pull under the hood which I have used at a DCFC after getting a mid charge error, leaving the handle locked to the machine.
Unlocking the doors is the official way to stop charging, then pull the cable (Level 1-2). If you are using DCFC (Level 3) you want to stop the charging on the charger. Another option is to use the bluelink app (if you have that available in your country) to stop charging. By the way, if you are fully charged (reached the preset charging level for the type of charging) and have the auto unlock set it will stop charging and unlock the charge port itself. That way somebody could unplug and use the charger even without you being at your car. Just as an additional piece of information: the charging cables are set up in a way that the "data" connection will be cut off before the actual charge-connection (basically the pins are shorter). That way the charging will stop and won't arc if it is unplugged while charging is active. I can't remember where I read that, though.
That's pretty smart! I'll have to try the key fob lock/unlock tomorrow to see if it works for me. Thanks!
That process even comes into play when AC charging is temporarily terminated by door-unlock, but the power is reduced (0.5 kW) but still present, as we all know, which keeps the session technically active. The specification requires the EVSE's contactor to drop within 100ms when the EV's CP current sinking is lost, a duration I think is longer than the time it takes between the CP contact breaking and the L and N contacts breaking when the plug is withdrawn in a normal manner. Stopping the charge at the EVSE is always going to be the most benign method and essential on DC. The Type 2 plug has a rating for hot unplugging at a high current and the required lifetime is only 50 or 100 cycles.
