Experience Hardwiring VIOFO A129 Dashcam

I never use Facebook, so I'm trying to find your post using my Wife's account. So far, I've been able to search on Viofo, and there are a bunch of postings and videos, but I don't see any Roger Rice in there. Did you post a video or perhaps a Post? I can't find you in there.

 

Ironically, I found out just this afternoon, that one of my grandsons narrowly averted an oncoming truck that veered suddenly into his lane. He managed to avoid contact with it, but the driver behind him was hit head on. My grandson's rear cam caught the incident, and he provided the file to the victim, who wasn't badly injured. A good demonstration of the value of the Rear Cam, as you suggested.

 

On FB you have to joint the Clarity forum to see the posts. https://www.facebook.com/groups/408505746238938/?multi_permalinks=1147986555624183%2C1147876382301867%2C1147838042305701%2C1147774942312011%2C1147395085683330&notif_id=1617755114223717&notif_t=group_activity&ref=notif

 

• Top: (I need to move a red wire!) Under the door seal to the base cover for the sill. The cover is easy to remove and replace. Don't be shy, pull on it! lol.
  
  Center: The sill cover runs almost all the way back to the B pillar then you work around the seat belt anchor
  Bottom: The seat belt anchor and the rear sill cover. I removed it also.
• 
  
• The spudger with the notch in it is great for this work. You can capture the cable in it and run the spudger where you want the cable. Most of the time the cable will follow.
• 
  
  
  Top: At the back of the rear sill cover I pushed it in next to the seat. Then up the area between the seat and frame. Another place to use that notched spudger.
  
  Center: The top of the seat and the window trim. The goal is the area between the seat and the window trim at the top of the seat.
  
  Bottom: Takes a bit of finagling.
  
  
  Top: From the top of the seat it can go under the trim at the pillar. If you look at where the top arrow is pointing there is a seam between trim pieces. That's where I ran it across to the next seam.
  
  Center. The bottom arrow points to that same seam. The center arrow shows the seam I used to get to the rear window trim.
  
  Bottom: Where the cable comes out from under the trim. What extra I had I just tucked up under that trim.
  As you can see there is not much cable showing there, and I think you could probably move it even closer to the trim.
  
  

 

Thanks for posting your install here @Tek_Freek. It could be helpful for any future owners who want to opt for the lower install route.

Regarding your first step, regarding removal of the Cover Plate to access the fuse panel and hard wiring, I did provide an easy, quick 3 step method for its removal, at the beginning of my Post #42.

 

Hi Vicw, Thanks for your post back there. It is helping me hardwire my dash cam. Btw, why did you have to use two fuse slots as shown in the picture? I suppose only one of them is needed to power on the dashcam unit. ?

Also, did you install it to an always powered on slot ?

 

Lol, he says 4 months later….lol

 

As I recall, the wiring kit required connection to the 12V Battery (Pin 18) and the 12V Accessory (Pin 11).

 

Parking feature requires always on, while the regular dashcam requires switched, so usually you attach to both. If you don't want parking, I wouldn't bother with the fuses--just use the switched mirror power

 

Another way to get power to a dashcam is to purchase a rear view mirror to USB adapter. Our Clarities have 12v power going to the rear view mirror. Just tap into that with the adapter and use a short USB-A to micro USB to provide power to the dashcam. No need to pull trim and run cables all the way to the fuse box. This is the one I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08167R5M3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1