Noticed yesterday the 12v power socket under the console died. I had a dual port Anker USB plug and noticed it wasn't working, and neither was my dash cam. The rear socket is working fine. Tested the USB plug in the rear power and it is working. Found the listing of the fuses and it seems it is fuse C10 20A. Last time I replaced a fuse in a car was over 30 years ago.. Here comes YouTube - how to test a car fuse with a multimeter... Car is on warranty but I assume I should take the camera (and wire routing out and then have them check the fuse and/or socket)? Note that I've never plug/unplug the USB plug. It is a 2 port plug and once in a blue moon I would use the 2nd port. The camera is the one always in use otherwise. Have not tested the camera but doubt this could have caused a short or something - if anything, the plug would have gotten damaged and it's not the case. Suggestions?
I presume from your description that you have the camera somehow wired into this same circuit? If so, that would be my prime suspect (not necessarily the camera itself, but some nuance with the wiring / connections). I concur that this should be fuse C10, located in the "Under Dash: box. For other's benefit, I have attached the document that shows the fuses, functions, and locations... Here is what I would do: 1. Disconnect your camera (leave the wiring in place, but disconnect the wires wherever they connect to the source of power in the car). 2. Locate and remove fuse C10. Normally you can see if it is blown visually, but use a multimeter if you are unsure. 3. Assuming it is blown, just replace it. In all likelihood, this will "fix" the problem with the 12V console socket. If it is good after replacement, then you need to worry about why your camera / wiring blew the fuse. You can check the wires leading to the camera with the multimeter to see if there is a short. If the camera / wiring is the problem, it is quite possible that it is intermittent, and it may not be easy to track down the problem. If the new fuse blows even without the camera connected, then it is time to consider a trip to the dealer because there is a more serious problem. I'm betting on the camera (in which case you can blame yourself) !
Was able to test the camera using another cable and the rear socket and camera works fine. It was late so was not able to test the fuse yet. And good point about the short in the cable. Now that I think about it, the camera's suction mount did fell off a couple of days ago and the camera was hanging by the usb cable. Maybe this caused short that killed the fuse? But odd that the USB plug didn't have any issues. Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to test the fuse. Are there any spare ones I can use? Also, the PDF is great but seems it's an image and txt can't be searched. And now I noticed this: C10 Console accessory power socket C29 Front accessory power socket Is the Console the one used by the rear passengers? I'll check both to make sure.
I have seen some cars where a few spare fuses are tucked away inside the fuse boxes. No evidence of that here, but fuses are available at any auto parts store. Once you get the fuse out, take it to the parts store and match it up to be sure you get the right type. There are a few different sizes. Or, you can get a kit that has different sizes / amperages. They are very low cost. I agree that it is not immediately clear if it is C10 or C29. In the process of investigating this, you can learn the answer and report back !
C29 it is. And definitely blown. interesting is that the cable is fine. I put in a USB jump pack and it powered the dash cam without issues. Now that I pulled it, I can go and buy the right type. It is a low profile but not sure what the size it’s called.
And replaced the fuse and nothing.. I bet the socket went bad as it happened to many others. Guess time to stop by the dealer since it’s on warranty. Or better be..
Here is the question now... Did the new fuse blow immediately? Take it out and look at it. Do you still have your USB plug in the outlet? Maybe it is shorted... Take it out and try another fuse. If the fuse blows immediately even with nothing in the accessory outlet, then your car has developed a short in this circuit, and yes it is time for the dealer. One last ditch thought... Look inside the accessory outlet to make sure there is nothing in there to potentially short it out. You may need to use a mirror and flashlight in order to see in there.
Thought I posted this but looks like it didn't go through... When I bought the new fuses at the auto parts store, it was raining a bit, but anxious did not want to wait, so went ahead and quickly put the new fuse into the slot but outlet still didn't work. After seeing your reply, I figured I would double check if the new fuse was also blown, before taking it into the dealer. No issues with foreign objects as the USB plug has been in the slot since day one and no kids here that could have messed with it. Looked at the fuse and the location to make sure I would pull back the correct one and noticed the fuse was MISSING. As it turns out, I had inserted the new fuse in slot 2 (a slot not in use) and not the original one. Put it in the correct one and outlet works again. Yup, I'm an idiot. <insert facepalm emoji>
Not any worse than me. I thought I had a problem with the fuse in the Clarity, when it was a blown in-line fuse in the compressor I had plugged in. I don't know about everyone else, but I gave up my right to judge.
I have a USB socket and a dash cam plugged into it. Both times I had the car sitting in the driveway for a while (over a week), then again, the car sat in the driveway for 3 weeks during the summer when we were out on a long vacation. So no idea. USB socket and camera work well. No signs of wiring damage which would make me think it would cause a high draw to cause the fuse to blow.
