Collision mitigation sucks. Is dangerous and brings down mpg.

Discussion in 'Clarity' started by neal adkins, Aug 11, 2018.

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  1. bobcubsfan

    bobcubsfan Active Member

    It can even bring the car to a complete stop and then resume. Pretty sweet.
     
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  3. Pushmi-Pullyu

    Pushmi-Pullyu Well-Known Member

    Yeah, the "false positives" problem is a very serious one when it comes to ABS (Automatic Braking Systems) in current cars. And I am (or a least was at one time) also a computer programmer.

    It's a problem which very probably won't get better so long as such systems are relying on the exceedingly low-res data from cheap Doppler radar detectors.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2018
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  4. jorgie393

    jorgie393 Well-Known Member

    Interesting to see all the approaches to the ACC and LK system.

    I liked my old "dumb" cruise control on my 2003 Accord, but I knew it would happily drive me off the road at a curve, or slam right into the back of a slow or stopped car. So I made sure it didn't get into those situations.

    In the Clarity, I love the ACC and I use it a lot (on all highway driving including stop and go usually, and some medium speed roads). However, it also will happily drive me into a stopped car (which for some reason it doesn't see well), or slam on the brakes when someone moves in front. So the price of using it is supervision to anticipate when it will get into trouble. It is like an idiot assist, or a new driver, that needs constant attention. Supervising is still better than driving manually, so I don't mind.

    So I am very happy with it and use it all the time, but I pull it off (or prevent slamming on the brakes by gentle acceleration) often. This seems to be more or less a matter of expectation.
     
  5. bobcubsfan

    bobcubsfan Active Member

    Sometimes IBM is best. Is Better Manually.
     
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  6. weave

    weave Active Member

    I have my collision mitigation set to be the MOST sensitive. With it set that way somethings I get a false "BRAKE" alert but it doesn't actually start braking yet because there's still a large margin left to react in. When I see the BRAKE warning and if I'm heading at something, I just gently move the wheel a bit away from it (like if it's oncoming traffic on a curve) and the BRAKE light goes off and nothing slowed down.

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    So basically if you come around a curve and hug the inside a bit too close and hence straighten out the wheel a bit so it looks like you're heading straight for a car coming the other way, the BRAKE warning will come on. If you just then gently turn the wheel to the right so your trajectory is again pointing down the lane the light goes off and no braking happens.

    The only false brake I had was when someone was pulling over to the side of the road and I knew they'd be out of the lane before I got there, but the car didn't know that so it braked a bit hard and startled me. Now I'll just understand that might happen and steer slightly away from it.
     
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  8. bobcubsfan

    bobcubsfan Active Member

    Where did you set MOST sensitive?
     
  9. insightman

    insightman Well-Known Member Subscriber

    Page 326 of the Owners Manual describes how the Forward Collision Warning Distance can be set to Long, Normal (default), or Short.
     
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  10. bobcubsfan

    bobcubsfan Active Member

    Thanks.
     
  11. weave

    weave Active Member

    So most sensitive would be "long" to clarify. It's been a while since I actually set that setting.
     
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