Budget Battery Capacity Readout

1. Regarding the sensors - We provided the sensors to the Car Scanner developer (which he incorporated), so when you choose the Clarity profile, you get those. Before Car Scanner adopted our sensors, we were posting them in a form that could be imported. You should use one or the other (not both), so either import the sensors from our files, or choose the Clarity profile. There is only a subtle difference - we added a few sensors (maybe 3 or 4) and never bothered to send an update to Car Scanner so there are a few more in the posted ones.

My advise is to just use the Car Scanner profile, and don't bother with the posted ones. The few extra are not especially useful, and using the built-in profile is easy. If you inported them and have double, just go in and delete all the custom PID's and I think the doubles will go away.

2. Location in the spreadsheet? Just do whatever makes sense to you. We have no formality or specific purpose for the location field. You could add a note if you like that states your actual scenario.

Thanks for joining us in this quest for knowledge !!

 

Happy New Year, and thanks to everyone for their interest in helping to characterize the HV battery longevity of this great vehicle !!

Thanks to all, we have accumulated a wealth of information.
Don't forget to check out the results of this ongoing effort by examining the shared spreadsheet.

This is my favorite plot:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LHtqVuPzHUDXmX1jiHOQIpT_YiGp9N-vnBOiSz96C2I/edit#gid=1735681880

The Introduction Page has instructions and links to data entry and all of the graphical results:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LHtqVuPzHUDXmX1jiHOQIpT_YiGp9N-vnBOiSz96C2I/edit#gid=1710145002

If you are already a participant, but haven't done a measurement for a while,
the start of 2022 is a great time to pull out the OBD tool and add a fresh new reading to the data set !!!

 

@Rachel Sherman -
I am in the general Baltimore area. Let's discuss.
I sent you a PM.

 

This thread has become pretty cluttered. The easiest way to get started is first insure that you have the compatible OBD2 adapter, then just select the Clarity in Torque Pro. We provided Torque Pro with all the necessary PID's and it is no longer necessary to define anything on your own. The scaling should be right, and you should see a number in the 40-something amp-hour range.

 

@JFon101231 , @JohnT , @Sergi

I APOLOGIZE for the brain freeze...
You MUST use "Car Scanner" to obtain the Clarity parameters. Torque Pro has a fundamental problem with the long messages.

 

This is where everyone has been entering shared battery data:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LHtqVuPzHUDXmX1jiHOQIpT_YiGp9N-vnBOiSz96C2I/edit#gid=1710145002

If you are not spreadsheet literate, let me know and I can enter your information for you. There are a few other questions like model year, estimate of percentage EV driving, state you are located in, level 1 vs level 2 charging, etc.

 

Good for you... $180 to check capacity is outrageous. It is literally a 5 minute job.

You are showing the correct screen on Car Scanner. Please elaborate on precisely which OBD adapter you are using. My suspicion is that you have a device with limited buffer size and that's why the reading isn't available. With a little more information I am certain we can get a reading for you.

I assume your 11.4 kWh is for a 'full' charge (from zero EV range)? Do you have a history of multiple full charge readings?

As an example, a full charge on my Clarity is typically around 12.5 kWh. This yields an EV range of around 50 miles (in the summer, with my driving particulars).

What is your history with this car? Is it new for you? Range is highly dependent on how / where you drive. Tell us a little more about your driving scenario. 11.4 kWh is not especially bad. You should get a range greater than 27 but you can't draw a conclusion on a single measurement, and your driving scenario is critically important.

You will also find a lot of controversy about the EV range estimate. People refer to it as the Guess-O-Meter (GOM). It predicts the range based on recent drives, and if your current drive is substantially different than your recent history, the GOM will do a poor job. Pay attention to the actual miles you get, an not just the reading on the GOM.

 

@Jamchow175 ,

It is highly likely that your adapter is not capable of reading the larger messages provided by the Clarity.
More expensive definitely does not mean better...

I would consider it a waste of time, but if you really wanted to be certain about your adapter, you can try the test that is shown in an earlier post in this same thread here - https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/budget-battery-capacity-readout.10531/page-2#post-123944
Do this test, and send a screenshot of the result that you get....

My best suggestion is to purchase the tried and true adapter that we have proven to be good (and most everyone here is using). This post shows specifically what to look for when purchasing one. They are only around $30:
https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?threads/pc-based-electric-powertrain-report-battery-capacity.12220/#post-148549

If / when you get a capacity reading it will be interesting to see if the capacity reflects the actual drop that you seem to be seeing. If your numbers accurately reflect a true change in capacity, then 41 miles dropping to 27 represents a 35% drop from your original capacity. I believe your 'full charge' of 11.4 kWh only suggests maybe a ~20% drop.

One more thought that you can try as a "Hail Mary" is to disconnect the 12V battery for a few minutes. This is sort of like a hard reboot and it could clear out some software malfunction affecting performance or the GOM... NOTE - after doing this, you will see a LOT of ominous errors / failures when you start again. They should all clear out after driving a few miles. It will take several drives / recharges for the EV range reading to settle again. This seems unlikely to me, but may be worth a try if you exhaust other possibilities.

I recommend that the capacity reading is the best first step.

 

There have been maybe 4 or 5 battery replacements reported in this forum. I don't believe any of these have been due to loss of capacity. One battery was called back by Honda (it was fairly early on, and the owner wasn't having any problems). It seemed like Honda may have observed something via telemetry and they wanted to investigate. Any others that I can think of were outright failures, seemingly due to other components within the battery pack such as the inverter, etc.

Your capacity of 43.64 is down about 20% (and consistent with your full charge energy input). A capacity 'failure' is a loss of 33.3% (1/3 of the original capacity). If your original range was ~41 miles, then a 20% drop should still give you a range closer to 32. With a lot of hills and 70-80 mph, you are pushing the Clarity and I'm sure that's why your range is less than many of us.

We are all very interested in battery longevity of course, and that's why we are doing this characterization. I was thinking that degradation would not be linear and would level out over time. I am not sure we are seeing that yet. I put your reading into the spreadsheet as best I could. Please feel free to add any additional information and assist us by contributing going forward !

I wouldn't bank on scoring a replacement battery... I don't believe your degradation is 'quite a bit more than other posters at 72K' at all. We don't have a lot of users yet with that many miles to draw a conclusion from.