2020 Kia E-Niro VESS/Reverse Chime defeat solution

Thanks to

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I just picked up a 2022 EX Premium last week and I'm already having stress dreams about backing up from my driveway in the middle of the night. I just wanted to confirm a few things before I tackle this project.

Will these parts on Amazon for the T-Tap disconnects and terminals work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08R666X5Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1NW4ONHSII4F0&psc=1

I was thinking of this switch Cory referenced: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GTJBR59/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1POY47GM797OI&th=1

In terms of process, is this the correct order:

1. Snap on disconnects to Blue, Black and Blue wires
2. Connect terminals to disconnects
3. Insert switch wires to corresponding terminals
4. For the green ground wire what do I need to close it or do I connect to Black terminal too?

Am I missing anything? Thanks again for all the help!

 

Sorry I meant to type

1. Snap on disconnects to Blue, Black and Pink wires

 

I think 16mm is awfully big. I went with pre-wired APIELE 12mm Momentary Push Button Switch Pre-Wired 150mm High Round Head Aluminium Alloy 1NO 1 Normally Open with Ring Led Pack of 2(Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091CVMG49/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1NA7683XPV49S3EBYVGP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

 

Turns out I actually got the 12mm one


Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

 

Thanks as I wasn't even thinking about the size.

Is this the correct order and all I need to do?

1. Snap on disconnects to Blue, Black and Pink wires
2. Connect terminals to disconnects
3. Insert switch wires to corresponding terminals

 

Hey Guys, just got my brand new Niro EV "MY 22 Germany" 2 days ago and can't stand the VESS. On the model I tried at the dealer prior ordering one there was a switch to shut off VESS. Now aperently all MY22 don't have it anymore.
So I just ripped the switchboard apart and took some photos.
Is this the right PIN?
Mine is Blue-White.

 

You are right. I just double checked in the car again instead of looking at my pictures..
I was able to shut VESS off by grounding this pin quick.
Ordered this switch https://smile.amazon.de/gp/product/B08DHZ55B2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A35IZSWCO6W4WF&psc=1
Hope to get it going like pepsi did.

I wonder if one could just switch the whole board against one from last year and get it working this way.

 

I went to my dealer today for the panel.
He used the VIN from last year niros.
He can order it for 161€.
But there is no delivery date for this item.
I'm gonna make a choice tomorrow.
If I'm gonna get it I will let you know if it works..

 

Just wanted to say thanks for this. That noise has been driving me nuts. Some extra thoughts since I just completed this:

• I loosened both screws (there are 2) on the lower panel. Then pull the top of the lower panel out just a little bit. That will release the switch trim panel that contains the switches. Also lower the steering wheel as far as possible - it makes it easier to reach behind the switch trim panel to pull it out.
• Disconnect the wire harness from the lower trim panel (with the charge button) - that will make it easier to get more of the wire out to work on it.
• I used 3M scotchlok for tapping. They're a bit harder to use since both wires have to be in place when you compress them. But I don't trust the random no-name brands of the other type.
• I used an old 3 pin fan cable extension from a computer I had laying around to make a connector. Cut it in half and wired one end to the switch and one end to the taps. That way if someone needs to pull the trim panel, they can disconnect it easily.
• Locating the hole would be simpler if you also pull the lower trim panel - I'd have preferred it to be centered on the switch cluster but with the airbag in that panel I didn't want to mess with it and there are plastic mounts behind the panel so you have to be careful where you drill.
• I only had a 1/2" bit (would have preferred a 15/32) and it stressed the plastic on the edge of the hole a little bit and turned it white. Used a black sharpie to color those in before mounting the switch and no one will ever notice.
  
  20211015_172957 by TD22057 posted Oct 15, 2021 at 5:42 PM

 

I bought the same switch (and one of the larger ones mentioned in a later post) and now am trying to merge @pepsi216 and @ENirogus comments on how to wire this up. I think understand what ENirogus is stating but that differs a little from the above (as I think one of the NO terminals is also connected to Ground).

I believe the attached image and the below is the correct way. This appears to make sense (to someone who took EE 30 years ago). When the button is pressed, the normally open (NO) circuit is closed and momentary provides a path from ground to the VSS Switch (just like the KIA schematic).

Kia Switch
Blue/Black[VSS Switch](pin 9) ->Blue(1 of 2)[Normal Open(NO) Pin]
Black[ground](pin 24)----------->Blue(2 of 2)[Normal Open(NO) Pin] and Black[Negative of LED Switch]
Pink[VESS Indicator](pine10)--->Red[Positive of LED Switch]


Any comments before I do this in the coming days?

Thanks

 

Yes, that looks right, assuming the two NO pins are shorted (connected) momentarily when the button is pushed (not totally spelled out by the data sheet, but seems to make sense). I just did it recently and it went better than expected. Let us know how it went with you!

 

With the basic solution here (which I am still considering doing) I believe I would normally press that button right after almost every time I start my car, especially at my house. One advantage of the simple unplug solution is I don't have to that. Wish button worked in opposite manner...press to enable VESS.

(Note I tried to unplug cable from narrow gap in hood but couldn't unlock the damn connector. Not sure where exactly this unlocking tab is located. Will try again...any tips appreciated!)

 

Ok. Did this. Not exactly the results I was expecting meaning:
1) Expected: pressing button disables VESS
2) Expected: pressing button again re-enables VESS
3) Not expected: Switch LED does not stay on when VESS is disabled
4) Not expected: Switch LED only lights for the time the button is actually pressed in

With that behavior, I relooked at the Apiele data sheet. I assumed that configuration 1's (the photo that I had above) statement of "Press the button, led light on" meant stayed on, but no that just means it momentarily lights when pressed in like I observed.

I need to look at the post about how the bigger Apiele switch was done as that behaviour is what I wanted. I have one of those switches also, so I might do a swap. Will see.

 

Job done. Moved over to the bigger switch which as wired will be lite up when VESS is enabled. I decided to drill into the fuse box cover due to 1) if I screwed up the drilling, easier to replace and 2) in case of warranty/dealer maintenance, I might want to hide the switch. Another advantage to that larger switch is that it has a disconnect at the back.

 

So, it sounds like the NO pins shorted momentarily as they enabled/disabled VESS correctly.

But there must have been a connection inside the switch that controlled the LED, as it wasn't controlled by the +12V on the pink wire? Maybe it wouldn't have lit if the +12V on the pink wire wasn't there? If so, that is unexpected, given what was shown on the data sheet. Glad you had the other switch!

BTW, I put my button in exact same place as you did, on the fuse door, for the same reasons. Don't think I have seen that done before, but I thought it made sense as well.