Wheel Alignment

I took my Kona in for tire rotation yesterday and discovered my alignment was out as well. Most of my driving -by far - is in town but I drive over speed bumps all the time. I drive at about 15mph over them. I was told that the battery weight contributes to tire wear and probably alignment issues. Well, the surprise was when the service manager told me Hyundai gave some dealers a pot of $ to use for service on Kona EVs that had to wait for battery replacements. So the alignment was free - as well as the tire rotation, a new cabin air filter and new wipers.

 

I just measured mine. Car is at 5000km, very little tyre wear. Tyre pressures are 36 at the front, 36.5 in the rears.

Front left is 210mm to the bottom of the flange at the jack point.
All the others are 215mm.

 

I concur with your observations. My Kona was only a couple of months in my possession before the dealer found it was out of alignment. I know for a fact I did not hit any pot holes or road hazards. It was totally my belief the car was delivered new to me with incorrect alignment. Next car I buy I will insist on an alignment and headlight level check as part of the pre delivery inspection.

 

Good point. As it turned out, I did reverse my car in for other reasons - before I saw your post. Lo and behold it is the front RIGHT that is 210, all the rest 215.

 

I went in a bit over a week ago and they said I need an alignment also.

 

You carry Spare Tires around with you? I wanted to get a spare when I found out the cars don't come with them. According to my research, all cars won't have spares within the next few years. I don't know about you, but don't feel comfortable driving without a spare. Ever drive from Los Angeles to Dallas? I have many times. And there are numerous places you could get a flat or a blow-out where there is No Cell Service and the closest town is 100 or more miles away.

I tried to buy a spare but no one was making them at that time (December 2020) so I couldn't get one. I haven't checked since. I know one guy who drives to Vegas every week and back to LA and he keeps a spare in his back seat with the rim and jack. I just bought a new Laser Printer yesterday and got another surprise. They only come with a cartridge good for perhaps 50 to 100 pages so you need to buy another cartridge asap. Another way they save money - no spare - no ink cartridge. I remember when Car dealers would include a full tank of gas with every car purchase. I don't know what it is now, but it wouldn't surprise me if they push you off their lot and say the gas station is 1/4 mile down this road. You should be able to make it!

 

The 17'' or 18'' space saver spare from an Aussie FG (2011-2014) Ford Falcon fits the Kona's stud pattern and offset and also fits under the boot (trunk) floor. If Ford had an equivalent North American model you might get lucky at a wrecker.

 

My 2022 Kona EV is in the shop this morning for right rear wheel replacement and alignment. Apparently they are resetting sensors as well? I have driven it for over a week and it has been squirrely as he** even driving straight on flat nice road. I'm sure I knocked it our of line pretty good when my right tire hit the curb.

 

And here is the before and after of my 2022 EV after it was fixed. New right wheel...

 

Different wheel alignments usually depend on the type of suspension on your car. Your friendly neighborhood mechanic can determine this for you. However, it’s still best to know what’s what.

 

Resurrecting an old thread...does anyone have the factory specs on alignment for a 2021 Kona EV? I have the equipment to measure the camber and toe at home, I only want to pay for an alignment if it actually needs one.

 

Someone posted this long ago. The small-print numbers are what you want.

 

What equipment do you use?

 

Equipment can be simple. Start with a test drive. Does the car drive straight down the road with the steering wheel centered? Does the car stop straight with moderate braking and no hands on the steeing wheel? If yes, alignment is probably close. If no, you might want to take it to a shop, or if you're adventurous try aligning it yourself (if you fail you can always take it to a shop so nothing is wasted except your time).
I use a laser level to check the floor and add 1/4" plywood shims under the tires to compensate. I also use a tire gage to make sure tires pressures are equal. Point the steering wheel straight ahead. Lie down on the floor on a piece of old carpet and sight along the wheels. Do camber and toe appear equal side to side? If one wheel is obviously misaligned that's a good place to start. Do any adjustments to camber first because camber adjustments affect toe more than toe adjustments affect camber. I use a carpenter's square and a tape measure to check camber. Square on floor (clamped to a block of wood so it doesn't fall over) is the vertical reference. Measure difference from the squre's vertical reference to top and bottom of rim and distance between to make a triangle, then work out the angle using triganometry. I am not sure if camber is even adjustable in the Kona since mine hasn't needed any adjustment.
I adjust toe using some longacre toe plates. Simple to use but you will need to convert toe in inches to toe in degrees (see, you should have paid attention in math class). Make any adjustments equally side to side unless you sighted a wheel as way off and need to bring it closer to its mate on the opposite side.
Some other thoughts: Put your efforts into getting the toe right because toe affects tire wear and tracking more than camber does. I assume that caster is non-adjustable without heroic efforts or special parts so I leave it alone. You will need to jack up the car to make adjustments so bounce each corner after you lower it back down to settle the suspension. If a wheel is bent you will have an awful time trying to get a good alignment. Alignment settings are not one and done. You need to check, then adjust, and check again, then probably readjust and .... It can take more iterations and time than you expect especially while you are learning. Keep a cold beer ready in the fridge ready for when you finish.
Youtube will tell you that there are lots of methods and equipment for alignment. The simplest tool and method is your using your credit card at an alignment shop. I will do that too sometimes, but I usually start with a road test and simple measurements at home to see if I actually need an alignment. The method I described here has worked for me and although it doesn't have an alignment shop's laser guided precision in real life terms the results are indistinguishable. DIY it if you want to spend some quality time with your car (or away from the visiting mother in law), or want to save a few bucks, or are in some remote place and need to fix your car and just happen to have toe plates with you (yes this actually happened). You probably shouldn't DIY this if you don't have the time and patience for it, or the proper place to do it (I consider a warm dry garage a minimum requirement - must be getting old, lol). Working all afternoon to save two hundred bucks might not be worth it to you.

Them's the facts on alignment as I see it. YMMV. Sorry for the manifesto.

 

Great story and I'm much the same. I've done my own toe adjustments for decades after watching a technician use a bar with points on it while aligning my beloved '73 Vega GT. The shop was called "Beeline Alignment" and was in Pacific Beach, San Diego county.

I did adjust my ICE car toe recently using the technique I saw as a teen, a stick anchored to one tire with a sharp point at the other end to make a mark. I mark the sharpie-blackened masking tape then carefully roll the car back half a wheel turn and make another mark. The gap between scratches is close enough to the total toe.

I could tell it was out due to tire tread wear feathering and the rubbery, vague on-centre steering. Sure enough it measured -2mm (total), which is pigeon-toed. I learned long ago that the adjustment is extremely delicate given the clumsy method provided. Just a few degrees rotation of the tie rods will cover the entire tolerance. Before cracking the locknuts loose I attach "pointers" on each ball joint to mark the initial rotational position of the tie rod. That way I can make the same change to each side as to not mess up the steering wheel centering. I made small increments then drove it to find the optimum because the factory tolerance is a ridiculous +/- 2mm. I settled on 1mm (toed-in) and it now feels like a new car.

I can see my Kona has too much negative camber on the left-rear but it doesn't seem to hurt tire wear and I can't be bothered taking it in.

 

At 42000kms I took my 22 Kona in for a puncture repair (very grateful I had bothered to source a spare. The above mentioned Falcon FJ donut) and was horrified to find out that my right hand rear tyre was stripped to the threads on the inside bead by a miss alignment. Needles to say I bought a news set of tyres as I only had about 5000kms left. I didn't see the wear as the tyres are quite wide and hidden unless you can do youthful gymnastics, which my arthritic joints can't anymore. I now check regularly with a mirror.

I can't say what caused the problem but we do regularly drive on gravel roads in our favourite National Park.

I replaced the Primacy 4s with Primacy 4s as they were in stock.

 

Thanks for all the info. What chews up the inside of the tires more? Camber or toe?

We just had Hyundai align our '19 Kona about 5k mi ago and now they say 3 out of 4 tires are shot because of inside wear. That's August to December! They refused to check align or realign unless we purchased new tires.

Also, how is that stick stuck to the tire and how do you roll the car with the stick stuck?